De-badging

floss will break, as will cheap fishing string.

use a hair dry (not a heat gun thats too hot) to warm the badges and glue or just park it in the sun on warm day.

use some 40lbs or more fishing string and saw them off, then use goof off, or some other non-harmful solvent. i used paint brush cleaner (not paint thinner) and a plastic body filler knife to dissolve/peel the foam backing off the paint.

then just buff with your favorite scratch remover, glaze and polish'
 
There are locating pins on the back side of the badge which fit nicely in the hole in the sheetmetal.
If you remove the fender badges or the tailgate badge it will leave holes in your truck. The "Powerstroke" badges on the door are only held on with double stick tape so you can remove them without issue.
I was going to pull the tailgate badge but once I saw the hole I put it back
 
I used a variable heat gun on low & a plastic scraper to remove emblem & some of the glue. WD40, a rag & some elbow grease removed the rest.
Probably not the best way but thats all that worked for me, Goof off didn't do jack.
 
the badges don't take much coaxing, just warm them a little. as nummit said, there are holes, i still have them in my fenders and tailgate. i have the intentions of getting them filled but sooo many other priorities... with the black truck, they don't stand out but they're still there.
 
YEA..PINS ARE THERE..HERE IS WHAT THE TAILGATE WOULD LOOK LIKE WITH NO BADGE

DSC02572.jpg
 
I took off the powersrtoke badges only. THe truck looks a bit cleaner woth on;ly the kingranch badges left on it. I'll post pics soon.
 
Regarding the tailgate...an inexpensive way to somewhat mask the holes would be to pop the access cover off the tailgate and apply some type of backer panel on the inside of the tailgate. You could even spray paint the side of this panel that will show through the holes the same color as the truck.

Not exactly how Foose would do it but fast and cheap.LOL
 
we always welded the holes and filled em properly on old hot rods but that was before the paper thin sheet metal used now a days. ive seen body shops that use foil tape for duct work and then skim over the tape with body filler. just need to dimple the hole in slightly to keep the build as flat as possible over the tape
$.02
 
I used fishing line and then goo gone...and finger nails, it took a long time but it turned out nice without any scratches
 
i used a 3m rubber wheel for a drill, it worked like a charm on my yukon, like a giant eraser, even left eraser shaving and everything, it's all i will use from now on, saved my fingers and easy clean up! i just waxed the spot after removal.
 
Debadging

BFD99 said:
i used a 3m rubber wheel for a drill, it worked like a charm on my yukon, like a giant eraser, even left eraser shaving and everything, it's all i will use from now on, saved my fingers and easy clean up! i just waxed the spot after removal.
Click to expand...
This is the best way to remove the adheasive. As far as filling the holes up, if you dimple the panel and fill it with body filler you are askin for trouble cuz the filler will absorb water from the back side and bister and crack around the holes over time from exspansion. The best way is to weld them first and then apply filler,its harder that way but you wont have any problems in the future.
 
heat gun and a thick plastic scraper to take the badge off.....and then use a 3M eraser wheel on your drill to remove the glue

been doing that stuff for over 20 years and thats the easiest and quickest way to remove them


Scott
 
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