One-Piece Rear Driveshaft

Hmmm

Long box quad cab.
Manual
Shoot for say 900hp/1800tq for some wiggle room
32-33" tire
3.73 gears
4x4

Drag racing, 3rd gear hole shots

High speed runs 130mph min. More if this SSR makes power over 3600. So shoot for 3800rpm. I think that's near 140mph

What do you suggest? 1piece? Two? Steel? Aluminium?
 
JasonCzerak said:
Hmmm

Long box quad cab.
Manual
Shoot for say 900hp/1800tq for some wiggle room
32-33" tire
3.73 gears
4x4

Drag racing, 3rd gear hole shots

High speed runs 130mph min. More if this SSR makes power over 3600. So shoot for 3800rpm. I think that's near 140mph

What do you suggest? 1piece? Two? Steel? Aluminium?
Click to expand...

No way I would go one piece at the RPM that long shaft will see.

2 piece steel IMHO
 
My setup is similar to Tims.

800+hp
5.13 gears
35" tires
4th gear low(5spd) so 1.1 ratio. 13.9 final
leave line around 5k and pull low to mid 4k range down the track
8000lbs
2000 quad cab long bed
sled pulling only
 
JasonCzerak said:
Hmmm

Long box quad cab.
Manual
Shoot for say 900hp/1800tq for some wiggle room
32-33" tire
3.73 gears
4x4

Drag racing, 3rd gear hole shots

High speed runs 130mph min. More if this SSR makes power over 3600. So shoot for 3800rpm. I think that's near 140mph

What do you suggest? 1piece? Two? Steel? Aluminium?
Click to expand...
Every new dodge comes with a 1pc aluminium driveshaft, they went away from the 2pcs, so I cant see how a 1pc wouldnt work and you can buy them from Mopar Direct, http://www.wholesalemopar.com/parts_catalog.html part # 52123162AA, Im looking at getting one myself, I hate this 2pc thats in mine, even with a new carrier barring it's still noisey as hell taking off. I guess theyll bolt on directly for a g56, but some people have said they need shortened 1" for the nv5600, but some have said it worked just fine.
 
What you can not do in 1 pc with steel is not the same in AL or CF...

The reason you can't run lengths that long in steel is because of the weight....
The same weight AL & CF are missing...by increasing the diameter, you increase the power and length and speed it can run...
You can't turn 9500 rpm, but you can turn 5000 rpm for where the tech is at right now for AL....You can spin CF faster since that tech is available now....

When you guy's are sled pulling, if you are unloading the truck and loading it you stand a chance at breaking anything... no matter how big or whatever it is...

I have many 1 pc shafts out there mostly in tow vehicles and drag trucks... It is a night and day difference in perf and mpg...
 
If you needed 88" you can spin to 5000 rpm....

So in 1 to 1 if you can spin your motor to 5000 rpm you have no issue...

1 to 1 is when the trans and motor are spinning the same rpm and that ties the shaft into the trans and motors crank speed...

Forget the low range stuff, that is slowing down the shaft speed compared to the motor...
Forget the final drive....what happens at the tires is not happening at the shaft...
The shaft see's hp/tq x that gear, and the rpm the motor see's x od as a max rpm...

Any loss in driveline weight is increased use-able hp...

So if you want to take a simple test.....

Find 2 shafts.... one that is close to the weight of the 2pc in your truck at 60+ or 75+ lbs depending on diameter and series....

Take your hand and see how quickly you can spin it...

Do the same with a 18 Lb shaft.....

Diesel or gas....you are losing time and wasting hp/tq getting 60 or 75 lbs moving....
 
3800rpm. 0.73 OD. is 4826.... Assuming the smarty SSR does make more power to pull past 3600rpm....

Can one of your aluminum shafts handle 5000rpm with 700hp, and maybe 900-1000#ft at that rpm? (guessing at numbers here)


What about 1800#foot of torque at 3100rpm? I make peak torque at 2400 give or take 100rpm


Is it me, or does this guy sound like a distance cousin of Comp461?
 
hp, tq, rpm, length, weight, 1st gear......

1st gear, tq/hp and weight determine 1 aspect and then hp, rpm and length determine the rest

The shaft is dependent on ALL those things....not anyone of them..

The math says that at 5" diam @ 88" it will do 4900 rpm and deal with 7300 ft lbs...

So if you have 1800 ft lb and your 1st gear is 3.24 you have 5840 ft lbs at the shaft....

Now that doesn't take into consideration....the driver bouncing the suspension by loading and unloading the suspension which can cause rears/axles/joints and shafts to break.
 
Last edited:
so i could run a 1 pc in my club cab long box, 7" lifted 96 and not have an issue to say.... 3500rpm or so ?? ON the hwy ?

steel or aluminum ?
how big ?
 
No, no steel 1 pc shafts..... Only AL or CF can run long lengths, it all has to do with weight...

What is the length, give me your center to center measurement and i'll tell you what rpm you can run on hwy...
I am at 88" from center of joint to center of joint.. i can go to 5200...
I have not exceeded that shafts rpm in my truck.
 
so technically, if i found a megacab 5" aluminum 1 peice shaft i could have her cut and spliced to maker work... and not have problems though.... for a truck that sees the odd light to light rip and a decent amount of highway (think 50,000 miles a year or better)... i'm more after the smoothness of ride and less u-joints part of the equation just throwing 3500rpm out as a rough figure... for all intents and purposes that would be the max i would see on the street, maybe 37-3800 doing a burnout but that's probably pushing more then just a driveshaft failure
 
Supershafts said:
No, no steel 1 pc shafts..... Only AL or CF can run long lengths, it all has to do with weight...

What is the length, give me your center to center measurement and i'll tell you what rpm you can run on hwy...
I am at 88" from center of joint to center of joint.. i can go to 5200...
I have not exceeded that shafts rpm in my truck.
Click to expand...

At how much torque?
 
My shaft has been punished with the likes of 11,000 lb on the bed in tow and me racing off every stop, even breaking tires loose occasionally if i get a little excited off the light and slip off the clutch....

so...how much torque.... my 1st gear is 6.68 so times that by 750 ft lbs...5000 ft lbs, then that is slammed into 2nd (no use of the clutch) 3.34 at 2500 ft lbs.....
 
Hate to break it to ya, but your not pulling 750#ft from the motor in creaper, the turbo is not lite by any means

But ok.
 
When i leave the light and the hood and fenders are twisted, and you feel the steering change...... i think it is seeing every bit of that 750ft X 6

But if you insist.... do you suppose that the 750 x 3 is off also for the next gear...
 
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