alternatives to a full on paint job

T

TxDiesel007

Uncommon CR problemed
other than plastic dip, and vehicle wraps..

is there anything else out there? having seen the cost, im still sold on a paint job, and am skeptical on the wraps...

other than easier on the pocketbook, are their any advantages to them over a paint job?

just educating myself for work to be done MUCH MUCH later on, on my 12v..

paints peelin pretty bad on the roof, upper right door, and cab corners... essentially I will let it get to to where its gonna get, and probably paint it once, and paint it right, unless I can be convinced otherwise..

yes it needs minor bodywork on the fenders and driver door...

thanks!
 
I did a truck in rust oleum , I was broke .... Just prepped it good and thinned the paint with acetone to about the consistency of chocolate milk and sprayed it out of a gun ImageUploadedByTapatalk1369156089.609771.jpg
Bad picture but it turned out good . I would do it again .
 
Lostnwalmart said:
Wasnt trying to be a dick, seemed the easiest way to show multiple people who have done it and how. Its not the best way but has been done with good results.
Click to expand...

thin coats and progressive sanding. lots of thin coats.

might try some of that new paint-shop lacquer based paints from duplicolor. I've heard good things about those. cheap paint, can get their primer and clear as well and just spray it in a clean garage.
 
A good wrap needs a solid foundation to look its best, in other words it will need the body work and a good basic paint job underneath for a wrap to look and last its best. A wrap is a viable alternative to custom paint with graphics and such, or for someone who wants to and can afford to change the color of their car a lot or want the original paint to be protected. But a wrap is not the best product for someone that wants a good basic paint job in a single color that they plan to stick with for a long time.

You can save some money and get better results if you are going to a budget paint/body shop by handling as much of the prep work as you can like removing trim, emblems, lights and so on... This will save the shop time and money on masking and give you a better finish. Good shops do all this for you, but it also comes with expense...
 
I'm with Tobin. Take some time to learn and possibly enjoy doing the bodywork yourself...saving money that way and have a good paint job when you're done.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 4 Beta
 
The roll on paint jobs take so much time though. Just do a spray job with a quality single stage and you would be much happier than rolling it on. Harbor freight HVLPs are actually decent guns especially for the money. Do some good prep work and you will be happy with the results. Did my 12v flatbed in a single stage and it turned out pretty decent. Only spent a day on prep work and spraying it. Spent 100 bucks on paint. Bought cab corners and rockers from Top Banana and had less than 500 in body work, paint, and misc supplies.

If you have 3m tape to remove from trim an eraser wheel from NAPA is your best friend. If you can swing it spend the extra 200 or so for a 2 stage job but if not single stage isn't the end of the world if you keep up on waxing it.


Single stage on the flatbed:
39FDC1E6-5016-4115-B008-351908F3A45D-676-000000F0DBB748F5.jpg
 
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