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12-21-2017, 10:22 PM
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#1
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Name: TruckYou
Title: Diesel Enthusiast
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Dec 2016
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 132
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Another stupid grid heater post
I hate to even bring up the topic of grid heaters.. truck was starting hard once winter hit, and I realized (bought the truck in may) that the grid heater isn't working. I tested the fusable link from the battery to the relay, and had power, but didn't have power coming out of the relay. I replaced the relay tonight , and had the same issue, no power coming out.
Seems to me like the ecm isn't telling the relay to activate. Could this be the Intake air temp sensor? With my 'wait to start' light activating in the dash, I assumed the IAT is good
Any helps appreciated
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12-21-2017, 11:46 PM
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#2
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Name: thatguy69
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Mansfield Ohio
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 2,023
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I'm in the exact same boat with my 2wd truck. power to the new relay but nothing coming out and my wait to start light comes on. I tested the trigger wires and I get 12v when the wait to start light is on but on the ground wire I get 60ohms. I don't think this is a good enough ground to pull the relay in but I could be wrong.im all ears
__________________
1999 Compound 24v Rust Rocket
2008 F350 P24v/Allison
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12-22-2017, 06:06 PM
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#3
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Name: TruckYou
Title: Diesel Enthusiast
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Dec 2016
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 132
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To test the solenoid, I can just use a hot and ground run off the battery to the trigger posts on the solenoid , and see if the grid heater activates, right? Essentially the sane thing you'd do to make a manual switch right? Ground the solenoid , then use a toggle in the cab
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12-23-2017, 11:12 AM
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#4
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Name: badbowtie
Title: custom engine daydreamer
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Plainfield IN
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 475
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Yes you can test that way or just wire them manually, which ever you prefer.
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__________________
1996 3500 4x4 5spd
1991 D350 5spd
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12-23-2017, 02:35 PM
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#5
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Name: GAmes
Title: Retired Apache pilot
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Killeen, TX
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 271
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You both refer to the "relay" in the singular, there are two of them, one for each grid heater. Are you looking at the right component? The PCM sends a ground signal to the trigger wire, the hot triggers are always hot. The factory service manual explains how they operate.
__________________
'97 Dodge 3500, G56, slightly bombed, A million+ miles, started 2nd million on 8/24/13 Now past 1.3 million and going strong.
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12-23-2017, 03:20 PM
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#6
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Name: TruckYou
Title: Diesel Enthusiast
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Dec 2016
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 132
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Yes, we are talking about the correct part
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12-23-2017, 03:27 PM
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#7
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Name: TruckYou
Title: Diesel Enthusiast
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Dec 2016
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 132
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I just toyed around with these old relays for the last couple mins, which both were still good. I grabbed a multimeter and tested a set of trigger wires, and upon turning the ignition I only saw .5v from the trigger wires.
Leaning towards the manual switch option at the moment, ratger than chasing electrical in the middle of a snow storm
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12-23-2017, 04:23 PM
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#8
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Name: GAmes
Title: Retired Apache pilot
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Killeen, TX
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 271
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I have mine operating from a toggle switch in the cab. The hot trigger wires have not been messed with. I disconnected the ground wires and ran a single ground wire that attaches to both relay poles into the cab to the toggle. The other pole of the toggle is wired to a ground on the dash.
__________________
'97 Dodge 3500, G56, slightly bombed, A million+ miles, started 2nd million on 8/24/13 Now past 1.3 million and going strong.
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