Finally upgrading sound in 2nd gen

diesel_importer

diesel_importer

New member
Well, I've finally had enough of the ol factory Infinity system in my 2nd gen. I want to upgrade. I don't need a ton of bass, I just want clarity with a little thump.
I'll be installing a head unit, 4 door speakers and prob a 10" sub. I need help deciding on door speakers. I've never used a component setup. Would a 6x9 (or 6 1/2") 3 way door speaker be fine, or should I take the time to install a component setup?


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I have some crappy pioneer 6x9s in my truck. Not at all impressed with the sound quality. I have some polk db651s in my car and will be adding more polk components. Very happy with the sound quality.
 
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Couple I've been looking at


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I just shoved some Chinese 6x9 in my doors and the baskets didn't want to clear the window hardware and the pocket in the door structure was a tight fit.

If I were serious about the sound, a component set in a bezel might work better?

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Rockford Fosgate is hands down my favorite affordable speaker and sub. I've had one of their 10" subs for 8 years now. It has been *****d out amongst numerous vehicles. never misses a beat (ha) and hits way harder than I intended when I bought a 10 to keep it mild LOL
 
zfaylor said:
Rockford Fosgate is hands down my favorite affordable speaker and sub. I've had one of their 10" subs for 8 years now. It has been *****d out amongst numerous vehicles. never misses a beat (ha) and hits way harder than I intended when I bought a 10 to keep it mild LOL
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I have some 12"s in my car. Had them about the same amount of time. Still sound great.
 
I have alpine spr 6x9's in the front doors and component 5 1/4s in the rears with the tweeters mounted up in the panel between the door Windows. I need an amp to power the speakers to keep up with a single 12, but it sounds exponentially better than the stock setup and wasn't super expensive. The rear component speakers were simple to install
 
I put a set of Polk Audio DB series, small volume 10" in my service truck and a bunch of dynamat. I went this route for two very specific reasons. The Dynomat/Sound Deadening not only makes what music you are playing sound better and be more effective, it blocks out the sound from outside that pulls away from your music. Less noise from outside, less volume needed inside. The Polk Audio's had nominal power rating like most of the other speakers in its range, but they had much better sensitivity for the price point. This is important for the reason of sensitivity ratings on speakers is how efficient they are. How much sound comes out of a specific power rating. The better the sensitivity, the less you have to drive it to get a desired volume from the speakers.

All this being said, with a shallow mount 10" sub, two efficient 5X7's and a package of Dynamat I have 1/3 the road noise, enough bass to make my ears hurt, and clarity enough i can be well away from my service truck and hear good full sound.

Just some food for thought. I am sure Rich will have WAY better advice, IIRC, he is a car audiophile.
 
I too have updated my audio.

I have a decent four channel speaker amp 75w RMS per channel. Alpine 6x9's in the doors (had MTX's that would hit the window when it was down), and some 6" I fit in the rear (took some cutting).

Then I built a sub box (Kicker L7 15") powered by the Kicker DXA1000.1.
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I had lofty dreams of making the seat padded with a seatbelt, but that never happened. Now it spends more of it's time holding a tool box, or motorcycle gear.

The sound quality is really great through my Panasonic single din head unit (lots of EQ settings, 5V output to amps), but I could really use some damping. The road noise it the biggest offender.
 
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