timing went wrong

C

Cummins12v

New member
worked on a ve truck today with 5x16 injectors denny pin 3800 springs for a friend. He pulled pump off and didnt tighted the nut when he replaced the pump. It sheered the key off and jumped timing. He brought it over and i pulled timing cover off and i figured i would skip a tooth to advance timing and put truck back together. now it runs terrible i clocked the pump back to the stock location. the truck should be around 20-22 degrees timing my ppump truck is 28 degrees and runs great..... is there something i might have missed
 
Possible it had already been jumped a tooth previously? These are old trucks and a lot of dik beaters have molested them by now.
 
I would find where stock timing is for sure and go from there. I think there’s two letters to line up on the gears
 
no power on top end like starving for fuel laggy. sounds like timing is higher than normal slight rattle but i skipped from e which is stock atleast from the research i have done to c on pump gear. There were 2 other marks(g,d)i belive.... its looks idiot proof thats why im stumped. everything is lined up. could the pump have taken a ****.
 
smokinVE said:
IC or Non IC pump?
Click to expand...

this is a good question... im not sure. this truck has been through some hands and everything has been tampered with.. i know the motor is intercooled but as far as the pump i dont know. would there be a differnce between an intercooled pump vs a non. could the other timing marks be for a non intercooled pump?

truck has clean fuel filter and good pressure
 
Loosing power on the top end doesn’t usually result from higher timing.


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I tend to agree with BRE.

Innercooled engines have different injector spray patterns and piston bowls than non innercooled engines. (From what I remember) Injectionm pumps stay the same I believe.
 
I’m not an expert on retaining my knowledge of VE stuff, however I believe non intercooled pumps were different.


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KSB function is the opposite between the two pumps.

Check the blue wire on the FSS. Sometimes after pump molestation the useless spade terminal will get loose/poor connection.

Skipping one tooth shouldn't make it run that bad unless those injectors are for a non ic engine....
 
put truck back to oem timing at gear and runs perfect...cant say i recommend skipping a tooth however i will recommend the spacer and turning pump to head.....makes no sense just my $.02 haha thanks for the help
 
It's been my experience that:
- Most folks start with a simple 1/8" ~ 1/4" "bump" (past factory mark) in the static timing. It's good for mildly tweaked pump/injectors.
- The more aggressively tweaked pump with moderate injectors gets along with the pump turned to the head.
- More static timing advance requires jumping a tooth at the pump gear, combined with retarding the IP case. To get it back centered in the adjustment slots.
- And then there's the nuts who run two teeth advanced. In my defense, with a lot of advance, one is left with little room between the IP top and the engine's head. You can't get any wrenches between the **** to work on the IP.
. . . The second tooth advance allows one to then pull the IP well back away from the engine head. Now you can do **** back there. ;)

I wonder if the OPs timing was advanced to the point it needed to be pulled back past the stock/OEM marks (retarding).


Don't forget the VE sports dynamic injection event timing based on case pressure, which is based on IP main-shaft speed and a pressure regulator, all of which is influenced by a fixed orifice overflow-valve.

Forgive me if I'm preaching to the choir. :)
 
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