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03-14-2019, 03:35 PM
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#21
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Name: thatguy69
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Mansfield Ohio
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Posts: 2,023
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Looks good, what'd you turn that on?
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1999 Compound 24v Rust Rocket
2008 F350 P24v/Allison
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03-14-2019, 07:35 PM
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#22
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Name: Chassisman
Title: Gator Out...
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Aug 2016
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Posts: 266
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I see where you're going. If your truck is stock set up (ie no lift) I would think bushings would last a long time. i wonder if you could source a press in heim joint, or uniball into that end of the trac bar?
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03-15-2019, 12:24 PM
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#23
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Name: CorneliusRox
Title: Seasoned Rookie
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Detroit, MI
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 4,154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thatguy69
Looks good, what'd you turn that on?
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Thanks. It's a SHARP-1440V. I could have taken more time on finishes, but I'm just going to coat it with some thick black paint in the end, so I didn't care much.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chassisman
I see where you're going. If your truck is stock set up (ie no lift) I would think bushings would last a long time. i wonder if you could source a press in heim joint, or uniball into that end of the trac bar?
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I don't want a heim. I went down that road on my 12V and they only last about 2 years worth of corrosion with the best 3/4x3/4's I could find. And it transmitted a lot of noise into the cab.
I did look for some press in bushings that were considerably stiffer, but they all seemed to be standard sizes that didn't match the Dodge bushing diameter or width. I probably would have gone that route otherwise.
My truck has a 1.5" coil spacer, but the amount it moved my axle laterally was so little, I don't even care. I have 37's on my 12V and it took me down the path of making my own track bar. I just want this truck to be a great family/5th wheel hauler that my wife can drive without a second though!
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Corey - BSME '21 Tesla Model 3 Perf
'22 DMax AT4 2500
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03-15-2019, 05:31 PM
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#24
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Name: Chassisman
Title: Gator Out...
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Aug 2016
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 266
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There , are some like Johnny joints, Ballistic fab etc that make uniball and heims with Poly races. They're smooth and quiet you can just cut that bushing end off, and bang weld a new one on.
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03-16-2019, 01:49 AM
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#25
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Name: CorneliusRox
Title: Seasoned Rookie
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Detroit, MI
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 4,154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chassisman
There , are some like Johnny joints, Ballistic fab etc that make uniball and heims with Poly races. They're smooth and quiet you can just cut that bushing end off, and bang weld a new one on.
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Oh yeah? Mind sending me an example? I did look at Johnny Joints. I've tried them before on other things and likes them other than the small shank that would bend.
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Corey - BSME '21 Tesla Model 3 Perf
'22 DMax AT4 2500
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03-16-2019, 10:48 AM
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#26
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Name: Chassisman
Title: Gator Out...
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Aug 2016
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Posts: 266
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No shank to worry about, just weld it on. It will last forever...If you wanted one with a shank, they have them as big as 1.750x12 with a 1 inch bolt hole!
Currie Enterprises 3 inch Johnny Joint Rod End | CE-9111
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Last edited by Chassisman; 03-16-2019 at 10:51 AM.
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03-16-2019, 01:13 PM
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#27
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Name: CorneliusRox
Title: Seasoned Rookie
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Detroit, MI
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 4,154
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Nice! I might be able to get this one to fit in a stock application with some modification.
Currie Enterprises 2 inch Johnny Joint Rod End wGreasable Bolt | CE-9112
I do think contamination would take these bushings down over time though. I think I'll order one up to play with anyways!
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Corey - BSME '21 Tesla Model 3 Perf
'22 DMax AT4 2500
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03-17-2019, 02:02 AM
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#28
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Name: Chassisman
Title: Gator Out...
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Aug 2016
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 266
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03-17-2019, 02:09 AM
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#29
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Name: Chassisman
Title: Gator Out...
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Aug 2016
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 266
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CorneliusRox
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It's easy to replace the poly races if you ever need to.
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03-17-2019, 02:59 PM
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#30
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Name: thatguy69
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Mansfield Ohio
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 2,023
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Currie makes good stuff, I re did my long arm lift on my tj with all there stuff. It's pricey but it's quality
__________________
1999 Compound 24v Rust Rocket
2008 F350 P24v/Allison
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03-17-2019, 07:25 PM
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#31
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Name: Chassisman
Title: Gator Out...
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Aug 2016
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Posts: 266
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Roger that, That's what Carli uses in their radius arms.
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03-18-2019, 01:03 PM
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#32
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Name: CorneliusRox
Title: Seasoned Rookie
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Detroit, MI
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 4,154
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I've been pretty busy (probably won't slow down until April), but I managed to get the other bushing done. I decided to move the barbs a little more inboard. This will be worst for displacement, but hopefully better for contamination. Either way, it'll be kinda cool to have both setups and see if it effects bushing life.
I was pretty happy that I got them within a thou of each other without spending any time comparing the two, just going after my nominal targets.
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Corey - BSME '21 Tesla Model 3 Perf
'22 DMax AT4 2500
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03-19-2019, 06:41 AM
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#33
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Name: Red Sleeper
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Lone Star State
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Posts: 4,596
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The joy of having CNC equipment at your convenience. Good looking parts. You also turning the bushings to press in? Interference fit?
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Nick J
'14 Silverado LTZ 5.3 4wd
'05 Cummins QCSB 4wd 48re
'91 Cummins w350 5spd
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03-19-2019, 08:42 AM
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#34
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Name: CorneliusRox
Title: Seasoned Rookie
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Detroit, MI
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 4,154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Sleeper
The joy of having CNC equipment at your convenience. Good looking parts. You also turning the bushings to press in? Interference fit?
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No CNC here! Just a manual lathe with a DRO. And thanks!
I would have been really tempted to put some stylish touches on it if I had a CNC.
Yeah, I'm going to turn the bushings. I need to do a little reading on speeds with it so it doesn't melt or gunk up my tool. Interference fit for sure. I'm going to start aggressive with ~5-6 thou and take some off if needed. I'm guessing the Delrin will be compliant with some pre-load though.
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Corey - BSME '21 Tesla Model 3 Perf
'22 DMax AT4 2500
Last edited by CorneliusRox; 03-19-2019 at 08:44 AM.
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03-19-2019, 10:09 AM
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#35
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Name: WUnderwood
Title: CompD Minion
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Texas
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 8,418
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The more time I spend on this forum, I realize that we have some ridiculously intelligent members here...
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2011 Ford F-150 Lariat 4X4
RIP BFD99, jponder, and Forrest Nearing
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03-19-2019, 10:26 AM
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#36
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Name: sootie
Title: .....like a BAWSS
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jan 2013
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 866
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I would be very careful with the delrin. While it has excellent self-lubricating wear properties, in extreme cold and extreme dryness can disintegrate and crumble/crack. I would hate to have you loose some aspect of steering if that was the case...
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03-19-2019, 10:35 AM
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#37
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Name: CorneliusRox
Title: Seasoned Rookie
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Detroit, MI
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 4,154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WUnderwood
The more time I spend on this forum, I realize that we have some ridiculously intelligent members here...
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It's all for show. I can't even figure out how to do the laundry the right way I'm told
Quote:
Originally Posted by sootie
I would be very careful with the delrin. While it has excellent self-lubricating wear properties, in extreme cold and extreme dryness can disintegrate and crumble/crack. I would hate to have you loose some aspect of steering if that was the case...
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Good call!
Actually, after talking with my buddy from work, I'm going to go with UHMW instead. It's got better shock resistance and likes the cold more. Just way more of a pain to machine, so Mike's going to cut a couple for me on his fancy mill.
__________________
Corey - BSME '21 Tesla Model 3 Perf
'22 DMax AT4 2500
Last edited by CorneliusRox; 03-19-2019 at 10:37 AM.
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03-19-2019, 12:20 PM
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#38
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Name: Red Sleeper
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Lone Star State
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 4,596
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I made my own caltracs and made the bushings for lead springs out of delrin instead of UHMW. I forget my reasoning for choosing delrin but I’ve had no issues in the past 10k miles with them. I can hear them squeak or pop sometimes when the springs flex,so I just turn up the radio.
Don’t see why UHMW wouldn’t work for your application.
I know Caltrac uses aluminum bushings which made no sense to me.
__________________
Nick J
'14 Silverado LTZ 5.3 4wd
'05 Cummins QCSB 4wd 48re
'91 Cummins w350 5spd
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03-19-2019, 02:18 PM
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#39
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Name: Chassisman
Title: Gator Out...
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Aug 2016
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 266
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__________________
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03-19-2019, 02:22 PM
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#40
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Name: Chassisman
Title: Gator Out...
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Aug 2016
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 266
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Sleeper
The joy of having CNC equipment at your convenience. Good looking parts. You also turning the bushings to press in? Interference fit?
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If he did that on a CNC lathe you wouldn't see machining grooves/ lines in it since it would be fed at a steady rate. I have some parts that I made on a CNC lathe 20 years ago and the surface is so smooth, it's like it was polished... there is no rust, or oxidation even on them. Assuming he programmed in the correct feed and speed. Today's software does it for you, but some of the old or cheap software you might have to set the parameters yourself.
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Last edited by Chassisman; 03-19-2019 at 02:28 PM.
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