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Old 03-11-2014, 09:28 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Supershafts View Post
Couldn't it be causing it not to plant though.

I wouldn't pull onto pavement with 36 and 35 tire as it wouldn't work, but on dirt the tire with more will just overcome the other end and make it slip along, which technically would hinder any planting effect that could be made
It doesn't hinder anything. Nothing is slipping along. The front is pulling if you spin the front faster then the rear it applies more force to the front tires which helps take some of the load off the rear. This isnt that hard to understand and your making it way harder then it needs to be. I am getting the idea you don't know much about dirt stuff. Look at a dirt sprint car. Different size tires on the same axle. Bet that doesn't work either does it! Bigger tire on the outside to make the car turn. Its moving faster to pull the car around. Same theory only we are using faster gear or bigger tire to pull the front faster then the rear.
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Last edited by DISTURBED; 03-11-2014 at 09:34 PM.
 
Old 03-11-2014, 09:47 PM   #42
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Jeremy what are your thoughts on running 5.29s rear and 5.13s out front with a 35" tire on?
 
Old 03-11-2014, 09:50 PM   #43
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Jeremy what are your thoughts on running 5.29s rear and 5.13s out front with a 35" tire on?
It will work
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Old 03-12-2014, 12:07 AM   #44
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Different tires sizes, rim widths, split gears never work says a guy that has prolly never pulled in his life. Sounds like you guys are wasting your time.
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Old 03-12-2014, 12:21 AM   #45
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Originally Posted by kjpcummins View Post
Different tires sizes, rim widths, split gears never work says a guy that has prolly never pulled in his life. Sounds like you guys are wasting your time.

Yea it definitely won't work. The numbers don't lie.
 
Old 03-12-2014, 12:39 AM   #46
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Quote:
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Different tires sizes, rim widths, split gears never work says a guy that has prolly never pulled in his life. Sounds like you guys are wasting your time.
No, they are not! I'm taking notes!
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Old 03-12-2014, 02:08 AM   #47
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[QUOTE=DISTURBED;2271402]This is completely incorrect. Even in the OEM stock gears the front is always faster then the rear./QUOTE]



What vehicle has a taller front ratio not many
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Old 03-12-2014, 05:55 AM   #48
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[quote=6btdakota;2272326]
Quote:
Originally Posted by DISTURBED View Post
This is completely incorrect. Even in the OEM stock gears the front is always faster then the rear./QUOTE]



What vehicle has a taller front ratio not many
Most vehicles. If you consider a tenth different. IE 4.10vs 4.11. If you start pulling ring and pinions and physically count the teeth and divide you might be surprised.

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Old 03-12-2014, 06:21 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6btdakota View Post



What vehicle has a taller front ratio not many
about every 4wd vehicle ever made.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1pieceatatime. View Post

Most vehicles. If you consider a tenth different. IE 4.10vs 4.11. If you start pulling ring and pinions and physically count the teeth and divide you might be surprised.

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^^^^^^
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Last edited by DISTURBED; 03-12-2014 at 06:24 AM.
 
Old 03-12-2014, 07:08 AM   #50
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So what's the thoughts of 4.30 on rear and 4.10 up front on 33's. This is a auto truck.
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Old 03-12-2014, 07:10 AM   #51
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Quote:
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I can fully appreciate this debate/argument. Mainly because I can see it taking place in my workplace with my old man and older cousin telling me that what has been highly successful for so many people is going break stuff and/or not work.

With the old rule of thumb being 10% difference is acceptable when specing a truck, Its hard for me to believe it could be as potentially detrimental as Marty believes.

I'll be honest, the only thing that has stopped me from trying this with my workstock puller is the fact that I'd still like to give the Drag Strip a whirl.
Who are you kidding, dragstrip!!!
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Old 03-12-2014, 07:58 AM   #52
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Who are you kidding, dragstrip!!!
I can dream damnit.
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Old 03-12-2014, 08:01 AM   #53
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I can dream damnit.
Geez with your connection and inventory you should just swap the rear carrier and pinion. Go pulling and when you want to "try the dragstrip" just put the other carrier back in. Seems pretty easy.
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Old 03-12-2014, 08:10 AM   #54
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Geez with your connection and inventory you should just swap the rear carrier and pinion. Go pulling and when you want to "try the dragstrip" just put the other carrier back in. Seems pretty easy.
The thought has crossed my mind. Throw a slower set on a spool. I'm not sure going slower than what I have now would work at OE Charger. power level with an Allison though.

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Old 03-12-2014, 08:18 AM   #55
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Take a look at something else that is almost always used in the dirt, front wheel assist tractors always have the front over driven by 1-7%. 7% makes some noise when the front wheel assist disengages but all the engineers say it's ok.
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Old 03-12-2014, 09:20 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1pieceatatime. View Post
You're not on pavement....... IF you plant the tires on a pulling track as hard as you would on pavement, you're not going to go very far.............. Unless the truck has the power and traction to drag the boat from a stand still with the weightbox at the end fully on the pan.
At the begining you should very well be able to plant and move since the weight is at the back, i would want to plant and get it moving as quickly as possible before relying on wheel speed

Quote:
Originally Posted by DISTURBED View Post
It doesn't hinder anything. Nothing is slipping along. The front is pulling if you spin the front faster then the rear it applies more force to the front tires which helps take some of the load off the rear. This isnt that hard to understand and your making it way harder then it needs to be. I am getting the idea you don't know much about dirt stuff. Look at a dirt sprint car. Different size tires on the same axle. Bet that doesn't work either does it! Bigger tire on the outside to make the car turn. Its moving faster to pull the car around. Same theory only we are using faster gear or bigger tire to pull the front faster then the rear.

Actually that is done because you don't want drag, you want it to roll free or we can call it bind, so the outside tire goes around the long way and covers more ground so that stagger is done purposely to remove all possibility of drag, the axle is locked there is no diff, like a pt case, if one end is faster then the other but not covering the same ground differently it's drag or bind, don't want that in a turn it creates slow.
You also run a heavier spring on the inside to keep that tire planted and weight jack. I don't and have not seen any type of countering the effects of the sled and transfer the weight

Now since you aren't turning and the front of the truck isn't doing anything different than the back other than being unloaded i can't see how forcing a unequal transfer on the same frame is helping.

The way i see it, you want to definitely try and plant it off the start and get it moving without wheel spin when it's at it's lightest.


Also saying 4.11 and 4.10 is the same as 4.9 and 4.5 is way way off

A factory truck with 4.11 and 4.10 is due to which way the teeth are designed to be the quietest and packaging of it in that diff , but that .01 isn't ANYTHING like .5 to .9 but also you have never ever seen a factory truck come with 4.9 rear and 4.5 front or 4.5 rear and 4.9 front, that just won't work at all.

To show how bad bind is, take a pt case which most of us have and we have 4.1 to 4.1 and go in the street and just turn the wheel full lock, remove your foot from the brake and see what happens.
Do the same in dirt

Hit the gas in both cases on both surfaces, dirt is more forgiving, but the bind and power being used to overcome are still there.
So if you had a 35" tire at both ends and aired down to 10 lbs so you can increase your area, you then could rely on power and gearing to get you up to speed quickly while the weight is off.

So as you go down the track and the weight is added and the drag becomes harder, now the truck is having to overcome that and the odd gearing it has front to back as that pressure is increased, you don't feel it because the wheels have no traction, but there is a drag present.

The same way you have power being lost due to just a simple design, there is a power consumption there.
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Last edited by Supershafts; 03-12-2014 at 09:22 AM.
 
Old 03-12-2014, 09:50 AM   #57
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You seriously have no, none, zero consept of anything that has to do with sled pull. Your theories are stock truck class at best. Nothing you have posted has even been remotely close to being correct. Just because you can't understand why it works doesn't mean it won't work.

To your comment about turning the wheels and seeing what the truck does. The reason it binds is because the rear is try to go forward and the front is now not on the same plane and is not moving the same distance in the same direction. So the front travel is shorter then the rear. so it spins the rear tires


Oh and we make way more power then we can harness and this is done by people way smarter then you and your kindergarten theories!
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Last edited by DISTURBED; 03-12-2014 at 09:57 AM.
 
Old 03-12-2014, 10:00 AM   #58
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Yeah I'm tapping out of this thread. If we said the sky was blue supershaft would say It's not

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Old 03-12-2014, 10:06 AM   #59
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all the big mud drag racers I know set up their gearing to have the fronts turning faster than the rears
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Old 03-12-2014, 10:55 AM   #60
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I promised myself i would not take a battle of wits with an idiot. For in the end they will drag my down to their level and beat me with experience.

So i will leave this here. good low view of many different trucks. look at how quickly they go to full spin on the tires.

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