Disassembly for rebuild has started.

Back in business. Shop had it done in a matter of a few hours.

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Is there a need for any retorques even though this motor/head doesn't have o-rings?

Would be nice if I could be done with torquing these studs lol.

I would do a cold retorque after a couple heat cycles.

I never do on a non ringed head. I used to, but i realized I was wasting my time when none of the studs had ever backed off or "stretched"


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I will add, I've been around MANY that were never retorqued, and they are fine.

Well boys, she's holding coolant this time!! Man, it feels good to drive this beast again!!

Congrats! You paid your dues on that one.

Looks good, nice work on getting it on the road.

Congrats. I was worried for a little while.

BRE said:

I would do a cold retorque after a couple heat cycles.

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I second this. I want to say it is the reason the 425s and felpro gasket are holding on my junk. LOL

I looooooove the orange engine, If mine ever comes out it will be orange when it goes back in.

1STGENFARMBOY said:

I looooooove the orange engine, If mine ever comes out it will be orange when it goes back in.

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So what would be so bad about a grey engine with forest green valve covers and boost tubing?

I always run it easy and re-torque after a dozen or so heat cycles. Last one I checked, breaking torque was way less than the original torque after a week of heat cycles. The head gasket tends to settle in over time and you loose clamping force.

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That sounds reasonable. I've got about 6 or so heat cycles on it at this point and at most have run it up to 35psi on boost. Trying to help seat the rings but I still want to load it good with either a heavy trailer or a box trailer to create some resistance to break it in good.

I've been good at varying the RPM and occasionally stab it a little to about 20psi. I figure late next week will be a good time to retorque the studs.

Everything is holding together great! I'm just relieved to finally have it done (again), leak free and leak free of every fluid. Now it gets stuffed into my garage.



I also finalized the billet hood hinges from Eddie Motorsports. After verifying their geometry works and allows full cycling, I exchanged them for an anodized set. Yesterday, I put them on with their lifting struts and am very happy with the results. They operate so smooth and don't have any of the creaks or noises from the old coil springs or worn pivot pins. Absolutely worth it in my opinion!





I also finally got around to shortening the hood safety latch so it would stop pounding the intercooler. Even though it had already made clearance for itself. I cut out 3/4" and I can see about a 1/8" space between the intercooler and bottom of the latch.

dang I bet those hinges were pricey..that's show car stuff man..real nice

Did you use the original crack block or did you get a new one?

If you had the block fixed with the crack, how was this done?

dieselbeef said:

dang I bet those hinges were pricey..that's show car stuff man..real nice

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Pricey is right! Raw/bare aluminum set is $535. Coated sets are $645! Not going for a show truck but I had been wanting to adapt struts to use in conjunction with the original hinges. Saw these on a few '68 Chargers at a Mopars show in April. I could see a strong resemblance to the original hinges so I night them to test fit. These were an easy decision rather than trying to figure out positioning, angles, etc. using struts off my dad's '06 3500.

thisguy65 said:

Did you use the original crack block or did you get a new one?

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No sir. A buddy of mine had a shortblock out of a 93. Got it from him for only $100. I never considered repairing the original. I'm not up for experimenting with that.

Now I have a bunch of engine parts to sell off. I'll be listing all of them soon but have to inventory everything first.

NICE!! :rockwoot:

As far out as you've gone with everything else, what color is the truck gonna be when painted.

jasonc said:

As far out as you've gone with everything else, what color is the truck gonna be when painted.

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I've been over this with myself a lot for the past couple of years now. I had a design in mind for a two-tone ever since I saw this Viper at Mopars in Vegas. Stryker Green as I was told.



Black down the sides filled between the style lines and wrapped around the tailgate with the "Dodge Ram" lettering in green. If not black, a darker gray. Maybe an orange pin stripe along the style lines. I considered a black hood to follow the Mopar fashion. It's hard to imagine just how it would look covered in Stryker Green. A buddy of mine has a 93 he had painted the blue of a GTS Viper. Vibrant but beautiful!



If that gets to be too complicated or expensive after body work, I'd probably just settle on white. Simple and I tend to have a less is more mindset when it comes down to it.