New to me 6.7

12valve95

12valve95

Comp Diesel Sponsor
Hey guys, I just bought a 2017 6.7 6speed. I have never had a non ppump truck so I have a few questions.

1. Should I wait out the factory warranty to delete it or is the EGR and DEF doing more harm then what I am risking in giving up 24k miles in warranty?

2. When I do finally delete it I think I will go with the MM3. What should I look for in tunes? This will be my daily driver, thinking a 4" strait pipe and want it to make the best usable power and highest fuel mileage or a compromise of the two...my commute is mostly highway if that matters.
 
How many miles on it, currently?
24k miles is a blink in time, especially if you're doing a lot of driving.
The EGR always concerns me more than the DEF, since I feel that EGR is the engine killer, rather than either version of the exhaust treatment systems.

Also, with having taken a lot of these engines apart, I gotta say I'm seeing a few of the 2013+ trucks with dropped seats and valves, so I'd try to keep a valid warranty on it for as long as possible, even though the EGR is the worst thing about those engines.

Just my $.02.

Mark.
 
Bought my 14 tuned and deleted. MM3. I am just not a fan of the screen set up right now. Can't decide to just retune and use MM3 or sell it and get cts 2 and EFI.
 
Mark Nixon said:
How many miles on it, currently?
24k miles is a blink in time, especially if you're doing a lot of driving.
The EGR always concerns me more than the DEF, since I feel that EGR is the engine killer, rather than either version of the exhaust treatment systems.

Also, with having taken a lot of these engines apart, I gotta say I'm seeing a few of the 2013+ trucks with dropped seats and valves, so I'd try to keep a valid warranty on it for as long as possible, even though the EGR is the worst thing about those engines.

Just my $.02.

Mark.
Click to expand...

There is just below 34k on it now....I am reading that the Cummins has a 5year/100k warranty but when I ran a warranty check it only said 5year/60k

Which is accurate? (first vehicle in my life new enough to have a warranty).

ERG is what scares me, pushing that gunk back thru your intake CANNOT be harmless.

As far as DEF I can honestly say I haven't researched it enough to really understand what it does.
 
I also wouldn't mind the EZ Lynk. I could get that from Firepunk who I would say know how to tune a truck...but I don't really understand the pros/cons vs MM3 with that.
 
Attached are pics of a 2008 chassis cab engine that had EGR issues.
This is essentially TAR in the engine.
It's locked up solid, no rods exited the block.
I am DEFINITELY NOT looking forward to this teardown! :mad:

Mark.
 

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Mark Nixon said:
Attached are pics of a 2008 chassis cab engine that had EGR issues.
This is essentially TAR in the engine.
It's locked up solid, no rods exited the block.
I am DEFINITELY NOT looking forward to this teardown! :mad:

Mark.
Click to expand...

This is exactly what EGR makes me think. I feel like every oil change will take 7 hours to let the molasses drain one plop at a time...maybe it ain't that bad but that pic says it is...
 
This is a severe condition.
It's basically the result of severe neglect and ignoring CELs and codes.

I've seen them physically melt the injector solenoids on the injectors, it gets so hot in the crank case when the EGR fails.

USUALLY it's C&C engines that are this way, which are usually in work trucks driven by employees, with no clue or no care.

Mark.
 
If I remember correctly factory lil change instruction for the 6.7 used to be allow for the engine to be off for 30min-1hr prior to an oil change to allow all the crankcase oil and ccv to drain.

Which brings to another recommended delete, gut out that factory Ccv filter.

Depending on restrictions, maybe even consider an aftermarket warranty down the road since your in the business.
 
It is just complete bullchit that deleting emissions voids warranty. If I leave it on a stock tune and delete it, it should last longer and be less likely to have problems.
 
Looking into parts for delete/tune.

Is it true that on the '13+ trucks you can just go wit a down pipe back exhaust because the stock down pipe is just a 4" tube?

I know up to 2012 the CAT was in the down pipe but I have seen some say that has changed.

I am gonna stay 4" so I would love to just do down pipe back if it makes no difference.
 
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12valve95 said:
Looking into parts for delete/tune.

Is it true that on the '13+ trucks you can just go wit a down pipe back exhaust because the stock down pipe is just a 4" tube?

I know up to 2012 the CAT was in the down pipe but I have seen some say that has changed.

I am gonna stay 4" so I would love to just do down pipe back if it makes no difference.
Click to expand...
I have some odds and ends delete stuff kicking around here.
Both EGR plates, the intake horn plate and possibly the bracket that holds the cooler pipe in place.

As far as the downpipe, 2013+ didn't have the wire pre-converter in it, but it does have a flex joint, something like some import and GM cars from the late '90s used.
It's downstream a bit, so it could be whacked and spliced, if you felt you wanted to.

FWIW, I tore into that engine pictured above and so far the head looks okay, no piston contact, but #6 cylinder definitely didn't like having no oil to the piston, she scored the cylinder pretty good.
Soot in oil sucks! :mad:
It took me a 1/2 hour, after messing with that engine, to get my hands proper enough to eat with, even with decent gloves on.
Once it hits your skin, it spreads and embeds like nothing else.

Mark.
 
Mark Nixon said:
I have some odds and ends delete stuff kicking around here.
Both EGR plates, the intake horn plate and possibly the bracket that holds the cooler pipe in place.

As far as the downpipe, 2013+ didn't have the wire pre-converter in it, but it does have a flex joint, something like some import and GM cars from the late '90s used.
It's downstream a bit, so it could be whacked and spliced, if you felt you wanted to.

FWIW, I tore into that engine pictured above and so far the head looks okay, no piston contact, but #6 cylinder definitely didn't like having no oil to the piston, she scored the cylinder pretty good.
Soot in oil sucks! :mad:
It took me a 1/2 hour, after messing with that engine, to get my hands proper enough to eat with, even with decent gloves on.
Once it hits your skin, it spreads and embeds like nothing else.

Mark.
Click to expand...

Yea I think I am going to delete it now rather then later...I do not plan to beat on it AT ALL so I don't see me having problems that I would actually take it to a stealership to fix.

I am considering getting a new intake to delete the EGR and throttle valve in one shot and looks like ill go TB on the exhaust but I would definitely take the parts off your hands if you have all the stuff...Let me know what you got and what you want for it.
 
12valve95 said:
There is just below 34k on it now....I am reading that the Cummins has a 5year/100k warranty but when I ran a warranty check it only said 5year/60k

Which is accurate? (first vehicle in my life new enough to have a warranty).

ERG is what scares me, pushing that gunk back thru your intake CANNOT be harmless.

As far as DEF I can honestly say I haven't researched it enough to really understand what it does.
Click to expand...
My '18 has a 5 year/100K mile powertrain warranty. I was under the impression that's what they all had.

Here's the generic warranty PDF for 2018 trucks (I assume your 2017 is the same/similar):
 

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