Very small 12 valve tow twins

[madmikeismad]

Nice little development: i think i had a sticking caliper this whole time since the truck was finished. Its been squeaking, just assumed rust. For 3 days now though, the truck feels lighter, egts are another 100 lower across the board, and cruising boost is down to 3-5. Egt idling is 250-300, cruising 450-550. Best part is still no water in the coolers.

If it isn't the brakes, is there something else i should be worried about?

[97rada]

Your not running water in the coolerS?


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[madmikeismad]

Originally Posted by 97rada

Your not running water in the coolerS?


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Not since i burned up the water pump. Waiting on company to fix/replace.

[97rada]

That's crazy. Do do you have atleast water sitting in them?


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[madmikeismad]

Originally Posted by 97rada

That's crazy. Do do you have atleast water sitting in them?


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No I figure it would just boil out. Right now they're just fancy IC tubing. If they can't get the pump back to me soon, I'll just get a 2nd one since I wanted to run 2 anyways, and just run it like I was with the first pump, but with a change in the flow after burning up the first one.

[hainesboy]

This has been an epic thread, forgetting childhood memories to retain all this. BTW, what did you do with your spool valve? Interested to try one out on my 64...

[madmikeismad]

Thanks.

Sold it to Nelson359 I think. Can't remember for sure now.

[Thekid760]

Originally Posted by madmikeismad

Temp gauges will come eventually. I know post cooler gets very hot though.

How about a dual temperature gauge?

http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/Dual-...re-Gauges.aspx


or Hewitt Industries makes great gauges and will often custom make one for you suck as a dual needle temperature gauge, just give them a call.

http://www.hewittindustries.com/flui...re_gauges.html

Also, anyone know what temperature water has to get to to build 13psi in a closed system? It opens my 13psi cap, but didn't open my 18psi cap. It's post cooler by the way, so don't panic.

Water will boil 3* higher for every 1psi, so an extra 39*F for the 13 and 54*F for the 18. But coolant also raises it, so lets say you have Cummins Fleetcool. That has a listed boiling point of 226*F for a 50/50 dilution, which gives you 265*F for the 13psi cap.

[madmikeismad]

Originally Posted by Thekid760

How about a dual temperature gauge?

http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/Dual-...re-Gauges.aspx


or Hewitt Industries makes great gauges and will often custom make one for you suck as a dual needle temperature gauge, just give them a call.

http://www.hewittindustries.com/flui...re_gauges.html





Water will boil 3* higher for every 1psi, so an extra 39*F for the 13 and 54*F for the 18. But coolant also raises it, so lets say you have Cummins Fleetcool. That has a listed boiling point of 226*F for a 50/50 dilution, which gives you 265*F for the 13psi cap.

Thanks! I've never seen a dual needle gauge before.

[Thekid760]

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94...-boost-dp.html

[madmikeismad]

I like those. Definitely finding one.

[12vbuiltcummins]

Very nice build!

[Cowboy303]

love this build, been watching it for almost a year!

[newsmoke]

I wish I could do another unique build like this, too bad all my money trees are dead

[blackdiesel]

Originally Posted by madmikeismad

I like those. Definitely finding one.

I just ordered two dual boost gauges, fp, and pyro. I talked to one of their salesman and he said they sell a 2"x1/4" spacer to allow the dual style gauge to set in the pod better.

[madmikeismad]

Lol I still haven't ordered any. Just got the trans working again. Gotta fix some drive leaks, then dyno.

[kawi600]

Not to hijack, but if you have a twin setup with a fairly small turbo over one thats more than double the flow are there any plumbing / gating options to make this sort of setup work without choking top end airflow? lowering boost temps and increasing density looks like it helps. Looks expensive too!
Im stuck needing air at low rpm as well for DD and tow. but want to be able to have a little fun with it.

[khaoskustoms]

Originally Posted by kawi600

Not to hijack, but if you have a twin setup with a fairly small turbo over one thats more than double the flow are there any plumbing / gating options to make this sort of setup work without choking top end airflow? lowering boost temps and increasing density looks like it helps. Looks expensive too!
Im stuck needing air at low rpm as well for DD and tow. but want to be able to have a little fun with it.

What's your definition of a small turbo? I'm running a 60/68 .91 T4 over an 80/96 1.32 T6 making 900hp in a DD and occasional towing. Most I've towed so far is 8000lbs and it works awesome. Egt's get a little warm on an extended 1/2-3/4 acceleration, but I'm usually going a lot faster then the speed limit by then lol.

[kawi600]

I was thinking something HX35 sized or so, enough to get really low rpm boost. Thats about what, 56mm compressor?
Starting to get some blowby on this motor and smoke / low end power is an issue. Im sure the cam isnt helping that either.

[khaoskustoms]

I'd run an S300g with an 80mm primary. Be a wicked street twin setup.