Guy running dry block wet head question

J

johndeere1

New member
Changed the setup this year on a open driveline truck. Went with a dry block and a wet head currently running a Meziere water pump. Question is looking at down sizing from the factory radiator and going to a smaller one, so I can re-locate my air water. What radiator has anyone switched to when down sizing that works. Thanks for you input
 
3 row Honda Civic radiator with the fabricated aluminum shroud and 12" fan.

Small, light, easy to mount, and about $125 on ebay.
 
In running same setup, and am running a 16x18x2" universal radiator and an electric fan blowing out not ducking the heat back into the motor
 
Run it empty and throw all the cooling system stuff in the trash. Talk about one less major headache. I have a tow vehicle and a good oil cooler and usually my oil temps are around ~150 after a pass. When I didn't have a tow vehicle they would be around ~180. Two passes per night were not a problem.
 
Agree. Throw it all away. Put an oil temp sensor in and have fun. You will be surprised how long one can run around without I'll temp getting high.
 
bigstacks95 said:
Run it empty and throw all the cooling system stuff in the trash. Talk about one less major headache. I have a tow vehicle and a good oil cooler and usually my oil temps are around ~150 after a pass. When I didn't have a tow vehicle they would be around ~180. Two passes per night were not a problem.
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What are you running for an oil cooler?
 
Most of us do not run an oil cooler. I have an 18 quart oil pan and temps rarely exceed 160 dgrs after a run. Like stated above...throw the water system in the trash for pulling, fill the block and the head as well.
 
prostockpuller said:
Most of us do not run an oil cooler. I have an 18 quart oil pan and temps rarely exceed 160 dgrs after a run. Like stated above...throw the water system in the trash for pulling, fill the block and the head as well.
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Let’s say one was on a budget and decided to go dry block/head without filling them. Curious to hear anyone’s opinion...
 
Whats not in the budget for block filler? Its like 50 bucks worth of Hard Blok to do a block and head. Only reason my head is dry is because I bought it used and didnt want the cement to harden up and make it move around.

Also I am running a small Derale cooler with a Petersen releif valve. However I hardly use the fan on the cooler unless I am making two passes or its like 100 degrees out and I have to drive the truck around the pits.
 
bigstacks95 said:
Whats not in the budget for block filler? Its like 50 bucks worth of Hard Blok to do a block and head. Only reason my head is dry is because I bought it used and didnt want the cement to harden up and make it move around.

Also I am running a small Derale cooler with a Petersen releif valve. However I hardly use the fan on the cooler unless I am making two passes or its like 100 degrees out and I have to drive the truck around the pits.
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Budget was probably the wrong choice of word. Basically was wondering of anyone running dry block and no filler. I don’t see how concrete helps all that much
 
Throw the cooling system parts in the trash. Ran a filled block and a head that wasnt filled for years with no coolant.
 
My block is not filled, but it is a deck plate engine. I’ve seen more then a handful of filled blocks break, I’d say it’s marginal how much it helps for the cylinder pressure we try to push.
 
dmigz57 said:
What’s pointless is that you obviously missed the point in what I was getting at.
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If I could, I'd respond with a pic of my ballsack.

dmigz57 said:
Budget was probably the wrong choice of word. Basically was wondering of anyone running dry block and no filler. I don’t see how concrete helps all that much
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I don't think it does much more than give people a warm fuzzy feeling.
 
I like to run a filled block and dry but not filled head. In attempt to save valves I like to get heat out of the head and if needed you can run a leaf blower directly into the head between passes.
 
Persingerpulling said:
My block is not filled, but it is a deck plate engine. I’ve seen more then a handful of filled blocks break, I’d say it’s marginal how much it helps for the cylinder pressure we try to push.
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nobody cares about what you are running:poke: well besides me. sleeved engines are a much different breed. I would say it depends on the application. imo anyway to add strength to a block or dampn harmonics, the better. I would believe some strength is lost in thermo properties in a empty block. Cylinder heads I am on the fence about filling them. on my engines or heads they are not filled, unless it is for a sponsorship and my arm gets twisted hard enough.
 
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