Bouncing need help

ninerqb8

New member
Ok so I have been having trouble bouncing. First couple pulls went fine, then I tried 4th gear and blew spider gears in the rear. Have not used 4th since but still have had trouble bouncing. First pull after repair I bounced off the line and reset to try it again. Slipped the clutch a lot further and had a decent pull but still got a bit of bounce at the end. Next pull with the same setup minus a different turbo did not bounce a bit. Next day bounced the truck off the track. Then last night I changed air pressure and still had a good bounce but it smothed out and ended up with a decent pull. I had been running 45psi all the way around on BFG AT's, and went to 30front and 50 rear last night. I have run the same blocks and traction bars all year, and the bars have pressure on them when the sled pulls down to the stops. Class requires 1" travel and no weights.

My question is what do you guys think is causing this? Tracks are usually pretty loose and sandy out here. Is it my bars not being adjustable? Tire pressures wrong? Not slipping the clutch enough? Or a combination of everything? Also I am running Rancho RS5000 shocks, which are a like a steering dampner they dont push up or down just dampen the motion. Possible problem with shocks?

Here is last nights video for some referance.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-6VpCZ-SeIw
 
Man that trucks a runner!

You know what, I wish I knew more than I do and could really help you. Does it feel like it's actually more in the front than the back? It LOOKS that way to me but what the hell do I know? Are you running a locker or a LSD of some sort? And what kind of traction bars are they? Can we see a pic of them mounted?
 
Man that trucks a runner!

You know what, I wish I knew more than I do and could really help you. Does it feel like it's actually more in the front than the back? It LOOKS that way to me but what the hell do I know? Are you running a locker or a LSD of some sort? And what kind of traction bars are they? Can we see a pic of them mounted?

It looks like the front in the video, and inside not sure feels like the whole truck all at once. Has a factory Power lok, and 4.11 gears. I will try to get pics of the bars they are weled to the axle, and run level parallel with the drive shaft to where the frame drops to go under the cab.
 
Pics of the bars and mounts.
100_2490.jpg

100_2489.jpg

100_2488.jpg
 
What are you running for a clutch? It seems to be a little aggressive when you let it go.

Do you have a leveling kit in the front???
 
What are you running for a clutch? It seems to be a little aggressive when you let it go.

Do you have a leveling kit in the front???

No leveling kit. The clutch I am not 100% sure what it is. I bought it from a member on here who sold it as a rebuilt Haisley street puller. When I got around to installing it I noticed a few things that were wrong for it to be a Haisley. First it did not have the paint marks to line up where it is balanced, second no bronze inlay in the fly wheel, third too many fingers on the pressure plate, and last the sintered iron disks had a Valair sticker on them. Best I can tell it was at one time a Haisley street twin that somone put Valair sintered disks in and sold as a street puller because it does have the three band anchors for the floater plate like a Haisley, and I dont know of anyone else using that kind of anchor.
 
No leveling kit. The clutch I am not 100% sure what it is. I bought it from a member on here who sold it as a rebuilt Haisley street puller. When I got around to installing it I noticed a few things that were wrong for it to be a Haisley. First it did not have the paint marks to line up where it is balanced, second no bronze inlay in the fly wheel, third too many fingers on the pressure plate, and last the sintered iron disks had a Valair sticker on them. Best I can tell it was at one time a Haisley street twin that somone put Valair sintered disks in and sold as a street puller because it does have the three band anchors for the floater plate like a Haisley, and I dont know of anyone else using that kind of anchor.

Sounds like a mcleod floater and pressure plate for their street twin set up. I have built some custom clutches w/ those mcleod parts for some mild pullers but didn't use the centered iron disc. Depending on what kind of material the disc are made of they could be making your truck bounce when leaving the line like that.
 
Sounds like a mcleod floater and pressure plate for their street twin set up. I have built some custom clutches w/ those mcleod parts for some mild pullers but didn't use the centered iron disc. Depending on what kind of material the disc are made of they could be making your truck bounce when leaving the line like that.

Thats kinda what I am leaning towards. From the video I posted it does not start bouncing untill I am all the way off the clutch. Guess maybe I will try slipping it a bit further.
 
Ladder bars for sure would help fix your issue!!

Think ladder vs what I have would make that big of a difference? Kinda wanted to stay away from ladder bars so I dont have so much crap to take off after the pull. Still gotta drive it home. But if thats the cure I would prefer that to not driving home because crap broke from bouncing. I wish someone made a set like GDP for the 2nd gen. Might be time to get out the welder and make my own.

Speeking of which has anyone ever pulled with GDP ladder bars, and if so how did they work?
 
i agree with the ladder bars 100% but you dont have to take them off if they are build right. and you dont have to buy a expensive set either, if oyu do research you can build them right and have no problem
 
i agree with the ladder bars 100% but you dont have to take them off if they are build right. and you dont have to buy a expensive set either, if oyu do research you can build them right and have no problem

I am thinking about building a set like GDP with the front mount able to move foward and back. I know the bars I have, even being almost level so they dont push on the axle when I hit bumps, still ride kinda crappy. Any other ideas on how to do ladder bars that would not ride like crap?
 
Are you reusing the rubber block or is it steel to steel?
Try running 60 psi in the rear.

Sorry edited after you replied. They are solid steel that bolt where the factory ruber bumps went. Would it be worth going lower in the front as well?
 
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