What year 4th gen would i want?

SixOhh

SixOhh

EPA unfriendly
considering selling the 2nd gen out right and using that money for a 4th gen mega for additional room for the kids.

my 3rd gen will stay as the "fast truck" and the 4th gen would be a highway cruiser for work.

I have heard that 14's are prone to breaking input shafts. is this true? any other years to stay away from for any reason?

I refuse to buy brand new so it would have to be roughly a 13-16 year model. EFI, deleted, studs, 68 line pressure kit and carli all the way around.


-Marcus
 
We had a 15 that we sold at 80k and the input broke on the new owner around 100k. My 16 od clutches went out around 70k. If you dont want to regear, the 3.73 gears with the 68 shifted the best, although at 80 the 3.42 are nice for crusing. I think the last year of factory 3.73's was 2013.

Probably doesn't really answer your question, but just some expirances. My 2011 with a smarty jr and just a line pressure booster shifted well.

As to studs, do you really need them with a good custom tune.
 
DD, Highway, weekend warrior???

13+ and leave it alone. There’s zero need to modify a 13+ for daily use unless you like modifying stuff just for the sake of modifying. Other than that you’re just spending money and wasting time.
 
lightsOUT said:
DD, Highway, weekend warrior???

13+ and leave it alone. There’s zero need to modify a 13+ for daily use unless you like modifying stuff just for the sake of modifying. Other than that you’re just spending money and wasting time.
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spending money... im ok with that,
wasting time... never. you might learn something.

it will keep stock gearing and stock size tires (ish)

all of my trucks get an air dog and studs. call me ignorant.

i might just buy a valve body and input drum and go from there. 68's scare me. i have beating my on my 48 for years and years with no issues and i know 68's need love
 
I'm in the same boat, 2nd gen has no room and 68rfe's are hit or miss. I'm looking hard at the Aisin route or maybe even a Ferd. I have seen the Allison swap in a 4th gen but like everything else on newer diesels bust out the $$$$.

Be advised many 68RFE trans builders have tire size limitations on the warranty, just something to keep in mind.
 
I totally get it. I’m just saying if you just want a daily driver these are really good trucks. 13+ really don’t “need” anything. My 18’s are a totally different animal from my 12.
 
lightsOUT said:
I totally get it. I’m just saying if you just want a daily driver these are really good trucks. 13+ really don’t “need” anything. My 18’s are a totally different animal from my 12.
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Had a buddy buy a new 2018. He asked me for mod advice, I said leave it stock man, it'll do everything you need, they are pretty stout in stock form. 2 months later it's got several thousands of dollars in performance mods and no warranty.
 
That’s my point. I mean if you want to do it cause that’s your thing, that’s cool. But if you’re asking if they need anything. No they don’t.
 
Bersaglieri said:
Had a buddy buy a new 2018. He asked me for mod advice, I said leave it stock man, it'll do everything you need, they are pretty stout in stock form. 2 months later it's got several thousands of dollars in performance mods and no warranty.
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blackmega3500 said:
I love my extended warranty is all I'm saying lol.
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This is the mental battle I have with myself everyday:hehe:.

lightsOUT said:
That’s my point. I mean if you want to do it cause that’s your thing, that’s cool. But if you’re asking if they need anything. No they don’t.
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They are pretty damn nice from the factory. Only thing that bothers me is the aggressive torque management the 385/930 Aisin trucks have...

My overall plan, eventually, for my '18 is the basics- delete, mild tuning, intake, 5" exhaust, Carli suspension, wheels/tires, and then just leave it alone. Either when the warranty is up or when I get sick of putting DEF in the thing. Hell, I might also just say f!ck it, leave it completely stock, and use the money elsewhere.

I'd recommend finding a clean stock '16 and doing something similar personally.
 
I'd say a 2010 based on price, and the fact that it doesn't have traction control (2011-2012 TC sucked!!)

2013+ you get the new dash, and the throttle response is a lot better (even after a light tune) due to the fact that they had SCR. The down side is you pretty much need a hack saw or to lift the body to remove the DEF tank.

I haven't seen much about shafts breaking. I mean, the over drive slips way before then!

Also, I'm at 17X,XXX miles on the stock 68RFE with an H&S Street tune (2010 Crew Cab, 6.5' Box). It tows my camper 5th wheel just fine, and gets me to and from work. No issues.

As for body style, you mentioned the megacab. The only reason I would bump up to that is if you still have full sized car seats for babies. They're just a little too big to be able to slide the front seat all the way back. Otherwise, there's plenty of room for the second row passengers.
 
Not to derail, but does anyone run the TS stryker module any more. They were kind of a hot topic before the ecm was hacked. I wonder what one would be like with water methanol to keep the engine clean.

Adding one kind of extra fluid due to def so why not two with water meth:woohoo:

I had thought somebody with a 13+ ran a TS Stryker and a ported fuel rail as well. They claimed it worked well. Might have been on the Cummins forum though.
 
regcanfan said:
Not to derail, but does anyone run the TS stryker module any more. They were kind of a hot topic before the ecm was hacked. I wonder what one would be like with water methanol to keep the engine clean.

Adding one kind of extra fluid due to def so why not two with water meth:woohoo:

I had thought somebody with a 13+ ran a TS Stryker and a ported fuel rail as well. They claimed it worked well. Might have been on the Cummins forum though.
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ummm def goes into the exhaust....nothing to do with the engine.
 
I probably was not to clear. I ment that if you are filling it with fuel and def already, whats one more to add regularly, by having water meth set up.

Reason I posted this is, a few previously posted to leave it stock. If I remember correctly, the Stryker only worked under load. It also supposedly reduced def usage. Nice little bump in power while keeping the emission equipment happy.

I would have to do some research again to remember why i had thought about pairing it with water meth, other than helping to keep your motor clean from soot build up over time due to the egr.
 
I will never use def fluid, never. its kind of a stickler issue for me. I have a big problem with the EPA telling me what to inject into a vehicle that i own. If it has def or a warranty it will be gone the day i get home. i just don't trust anyone to work on my vehicles. I have seen "mechanics" at dealers ruin more stuff on vehicles trying to get them fixed.

Several years ago, at a local dealer not far from home, when a customer came in for clogged exhaust the service writers would have a porter (high school kid) drive the truck at 85 or so down the freeway with overdrive off. Got the motor to burn nice and hot then they would reflash it and charge the customer thousands....
 
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