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Tranny fixed and installed. Ended up being I put the wrong gear in. The housing I used was from the 94' and I'd originally installed the 35T reverse gear. The 94'-97' (39 tooth) had a higher reverse ratio than the 97' and newer (35 tooth).
Has anybody tried installing a newer larger capacity fuel tank out of a different model year or make truck in one of these OBS trucks? I'd like to get away from dual tanks because of the diverter size restiction. Or has anybody found and installed a diverter that would be able to use 1/2" fuel lines without restricting flow?
Lastest pics
Tank barely fits, gonna need some double jack treatment to one of the crossmembers but that should do the trick. Fuel lines hooked right up too.
Turns out when I took the bed off with all the junk in it (about tipped the skid streer over) I got my four inches of lift needed to level the frame with the front suspention mods, so I won't be needing to weld new perches on the rear axle for more lift.
99' or newer Crew Cab long bed super duty. The truck I pulled mine from had a 7.3 so I'm guessing a 99'-03'. The main reason for the tank mod was so I can use the Beans sump for bigger fuel line to the injection system without restriction, an added plus was one tank thats 36 gallon. Never fails when you go to pull one they are chuck full too.
99' or newer Crew Cab long bed super duty. The truck I pulled mine from had a 7.3 so I'm guessing a 99'-03'. The main reason for the tank mod was so I can use the Beans sump for bigger fuel line to the injection system without restriction, an added plus was one tank thats 36 gallon. Never fails when you go to pull one they are chuck full too.
Thanks for the info, I just happen to have one laying around. Guess what my next mod is! lol
Doesn't look like much got done but there was a lot of cutting and fitting. I forgot to take a picture from underneath to show the support for the headache rack but I'll just say it's not going anywhere.
Thanks! And no joke on the funds! I think I would have been done with the conversion a few months ago had I not derailed on suspension and the bed. Sad thing is the expensive stuff is still yet to come.
It's been a while but it seems very common with us conversion guys that we move to a new home right in the middle of our builds and start remodeling at the same time. So here is a couple pics of the tail plate before the move. One to show how much angle from the rear of the tire to the tail for better ground clearance. Then to break up the monotony I picked up another toy for the family.
Thanks! I'm like a sponge when it comes to learning about fab work. Hopefully within the next month I can get back in action with this project. My buddy gave me a pretty hard time after applying the square for the thousandth time but it paid off in the end, thing is super flat and no warping.
Has anybody with the Fords tried using a Common Rail exhaust manifold flipped upside down in a twin combo? I was wondering if this would be a good way to get more clearance away from AC dryer and heater box?
Over under or side by side? I'm over under 351/472 using a Stainless Diesel t3 manifold in the "flipped up" position. Have about an inch from the 351 to the a/c can. I don't know if you'd have enough room for a hot pipe if you used the CR manifold, don't the ports sit between 4 and 5 on the head?
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Mike
Stacked silencer rings.
1957 Cummins Power Wagon
2014 Regular Cab G56
I was hoping to do the over and under style but just researching options. Yes, I do believe the dump is between 4-5. Good to know about your setup cause I'm leaning toward the 351/480 so it should be the same right?
Yep. This photo is with Autoworld mounts, I ended up making my own and the engine shifted back a bit more. It's also the cold pipe that's close to the can not the turbo.
__________________
Mike
Stacked silencer rings.
1957 Cummins Power Wagon
2014 Regular Cab G56
I'm building a compound setup for this truck, and have the primary (S480). I'm looking for opinions on which turbo to use for the secondary and "WHY" out of these three; HE351CW, 351 VGT with Banshee II controller, or HTB2 62/65/12cm. I posted a thread in the turbo section with only one reply so far but no input given. The CW is proven to work very well with this combo when the correct mods are made to the turbine housing, has great street manners, and spools quick. The VGT works good with all the 6.7's and has the bonus of the exhaust brake, quicker spool, and when used with the Banshee II controller you get control over the boost, control of the drive pressure, and control over the exhaust brake, all of which would make it great for tuning the twins. The HTB2 is basically bullet proof, waste gated within the turbine housing, will make more over all HP, but will have slightly more lag out of the hole.,I have the money, help me spend it with solid info.