Ticking Time Bomb Build Thread

rattlinrotary

rattlinrotary

New member
Alright so I've decided to make a build thread in hopes to get some solid tips/knowledge on what I can improve in my setup to make BIG power on fuel only (however i'm not opposed to giving it a bit of nitrous from time to time). I'm far from an expert so ANY input at all would be great! This started out as my first vehicle and was originally going to be a daily driven truck but that idea has been completely sidelined and it's only going to be used for fun to go to car shows/dyno events and whatnot. It's a 100% stock appearing '91.5 2wd first gen that I hope to spank any new truck with I see on the road.


Fuel:
14mm VE built by Guenther Heritage Diesel
3800 rpm governor spring
The Hungry Diesel Fuel Pin
S&J "Hot Screw"
Timing @ 24*
7x.014 injectors
Braided AFC Line
Airdog II-4G 165 gph

Engine:
Hamilton 188/220 cam
24v lifters
Keating Machine Titanium Retainers & Keepers
150# Valve Springs
Decked & Fire Ringed Head
Hamilton Heavy Duty Pushrods
(KDP in trash can)
Steed Speed T3 non-gated manifold

Air:
The Hungry Diesel compound piping
63/68/.70 & 75/88/1.32 (both billet wheel)
Mishimoto 7.3 Intercooler
Custom 3" intake piping
AirRaid "Race Day" filter

Transmission:
Stock Getrag 360
South Bend single disc 13125-OFEK Organic/Feramic clutch

Diff:
72" Traction bars
Yukon Limited Slip (3.54:1)
 

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You have plenty of air and fuel, so your limiting factor is the VE (surprise). If you must keep the VE, then an automatic lockup trans and drugs is your next alternative.
If you choose to p-pump swap, bring on the fuel and have some fun.

What power does the current setup produce?
 
I forgot to say that I’m sticking with the VE and the manual. Those are definitely staying.

I have no clue what this setup is making but according to the ol’ butt dyno it feels faster than my buddies 2wd regular cab 7.3 that’s putting down 512hp & 1009 ft lbs

Plan on having it on the rollers a couple times this year. Will definitely be at SDX with it this year


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Staying a true 1st gen is my number 1 priority. A 5-600 hp VE truck in my opinion is way cooler than an 800hp+ P pumped truck


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I say keep the VE, that light truck can be quick at 500hp.

How does it run now? You have plenty of air, does it drive the chargers hard enough?
 
Well as of right now it’s making 50psi and the exhaust almost completely clears up at high rpm. Kinda thinking I need different injectors..maybe some different pump tuning. Attached I have examples of how much it cleans up (and no I’m not keeping the hood stack for those wondering)
ef206bf5e2dd5643ccae27ad0e651a03.jpg
3ceb2f6bc7ba02379b9dee3eb8ffc598.jpg



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Well I cant help you none on the VE side.
But a s475 with a 1.32 housing may not be the best match. Dial the turbine and housing back
 
Is your VE “pinned” on timing advance like some of the other 14mm VE’s out there? I ask because you say 24* of timing, or is that total advance? Are you monitoring case pressure in the VE?

I’ll say I think your cam is too big for our RPM limitations.

Weston would be the guy I’d call about some bigger injectors.

145 or 155 pistons?

I like your style man, but I stopped counting broken inputs on the ol Rags. It’s your rig but if you really want to stay with a hand shaker I’d jump **** to at least a 4500, it’s a simple swap in our trucks.

Post some videos of this old gal on YouTube and get us a link.
 
You need more fuel period!!! I'm not a VE expert so I won't comment on case pressure and such on how to extract that last 15HP from the VE. I will comment on your injectors though. We've never seen big power numbers with 7 hole injectors on a 12v. They always fall on their face in the 2600+ RPM range.

On the injectors, we usually see the best power numbers on a 12mm P-pump with 5x022. I'm guessing your 14mm VE pump could have similar injection rate to a 12mm P-pump so I'd think something like 5x020" to 5x022" would work well.

When chasing HP, if the truck has enough air to "clean up" like yours does in the picture, we always see gains with extensive needle work and lift mods to the injectors. These mods coax more fuel out of the injectors at the expense of idle haze and occasionally a lope at idle. You gotta pay to play so to speak on the injectors meaning you'll pay a smoke and driveability penalty with the heavy needle work, but it will pick up power "when there is additional airflow to burn the extra late/poorer injection quality fueling".

Another way to get more "fuel" into that engine setup is water/methanol injection with a heavy 50% to 70% methanol mixture. Lots of methanol is hard on the head gasket so try to spray it at higher RPM ranges if possible to help lessen the low-end torque hit.
 
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Big Blue24 said:
These mods coax more fuel out of the injectors at the expense of idle haze and occasionally a lope at idle. You gotta pay to play so to speak on the injectors meaning you'll pay a smoke and driveability penalty with the heavy needle work.
Click to expand...

To the degree of needle lift that is reliable in a street driven application, I have seen no ill effects regarding idle quality and haze.
 
Awesome build man! Glad to see your 14mm is living. When they made the pump, they could have set it up so the fuel tapers off real fast at high rpm, that's how mine is. VE pumps are grunt pumps I try to make the powerband about 2,000-2,800rpm. Make sure your AirDog has the pressure bumped up to 30psi to keep the 14 alive, and also check to see if your front seal has been loctited. I have 5x25 injectors from Scheid and like em, but they weren't cheap. Your compounds should be making more than 50 psi, so you may be onto something with the more fuel. The 57mm/71mm setup on my second gen that made 600rwhp made 65psi.
 
Last edited:
Big Blue24 said:
Another way to get more "fuel" into that engine setup is water/methanol injection with a heavy 50% to 70% methanol mixture. Lots of methanol is hard on the head gasket so try to spray it at higher RPM ranges if possible to help lessen the low-end torque hit.
Click to expand...

I agree on the w/m...should pick up 50-70hp I think at least. For some reason they pick up more on compounds....
 
Also, do a quarter mile run on a Gtech or one of those phone apps (they're not great, but close)....even if your ET sucks, the weight of the truck and your trap speed should give a pretty good indication of power if you can't get on a dyno soon.
 
JQmile said:
Awesome build man! Glad to see your 14mm is living. When they made the pump, they could have set it up so the fuel tapers off real fast at high rpm, that's how mine is. VE pumps are grunt pumps I try to make the powerband about 2,000-2,800rpm. Make sure your AirDog has the pressure bumped up to 30psi to keep the 14 alive, and also check to see if your front seal has been loctited. I have 5x25 injectors from Scheid and like em, but they weren't cheap. Your compounds should be making more than 50 psi, so you may be onto something with the more fuel. The 57mm/71mm setup on my second gen that made 600rwhp made 65psi.
Click to expand...

I have always said with a VE if the turbos aren't singing by 1800rpm your at a loss. The one thing a VE can do is fuel great down low. My twins light pretty fast and make a around 70lbs on a 12mm pump with 6x16's. The harder you load them the more they fuel.
 
12vchevydually said:
I have always said with a VE if the turbos aren't singing by 1800rpm your at a loss. The one thing a VE can do is fuel great down low. My twins light pretty fast and make a around 70lbs on a 12mm pump with 6x16's. The harder you load them the more they fuel.
Click to expand...

Unless you have a VE still making 250cc+ At 4000rpm.

It’s a niche market and it won’t be overly popular here because we get excited about 500hp, but there’s been 2 12mm VE trucks make 500+ uncorrected in the last year. The only 2 I know of.(here comes smokinve on his jackstands)
 
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