Let's talk upgraded d60 dodge axle

DieselheaD said:
First off, I've seen this to be more and more common. I would like to prevent wrapping my truck up with a sled behind it.

https://www.facebook.com/BeerMoneyPullingTeam/videos/1146770682000003/


Basically I want advice on who is my one stop shop for my d60.

What's the best place to call up ? Explain...
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Depends on if you want to do some work yourself, or your looking for a bolt in option

1. You can use ford spindles ( small amount of work on a lathe, and Re drill mounting holes). Use ford hubs and rotors with no work to rotors for brakes to work. I bought all axles and drive flanges from ems off road, was the cheapest option.

2. You can get a danatrac free spin kit and do a cad delete too. But that's the highest option.

We also just installed a 35 spline spartan locker that goes inside the factory open diff thay seems to be a nice piece for half the price of most true lockers
 
jones95runner said:
Depends on if you want to do some work yourself, or your looking for a bolt in option



We also just installed a 35 spline spartan locker that goes inside the factory open diff thay seems to be a nice piece for half the price of most true lockers
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Looks just like the older style, bet it blows up! LOL

Power trax was it?
 
zstroken said:
Looks just like the older style, bet it blows up! LOL

Power trax was it?
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Yes it might. I have seen failures of them. Seems we make enough power now the dot tires are having a tough time getting a bite like they used to. Who knows everything is breakable. Seems the 2.5 trucks are at the power level now we all had trouble breaking stuff back in the 2.8 days.
 
What's the cause of the wheel shaking then letting go? Is it a chain reaction from breaking the u-joint at the spindle?

Are 30spline moly axles strong enough?

Are CTM u joints worth the money?


I'm thinking of an ARB up front, a freespin kit or possibly upgrading to the RCV shafts.
 
DieselheaD said:
What's the cause of the wheel shaking then letting go? Is it a chain reaction from breaking the u-joint at the spindle?

Are 30spline moly axles strong enough?

Are CTM u joints worth the money?


I'm thinking of an ARB up front, a freespin kit or possibly upgrading to the RCV shafts.
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The only reason the tire falls off is the broken outer axles. That's what you are wanting to replace with the free spin kit. Two years ago at ts we broke both outers and one inner and the uprights joints were still intact. Those were 35spline. If I was doing anything I'd make sure I did 35spline.
 
jones95runner said:
The only reason the tire falls off is the broken outer axles. That's what you are wanting to replace with the free spin kit. Two years ago at ts we broke both outers and one inner and the uprights joints were still intact. Those were 35spline. If I was doing anything I'd make sure I did 35spline.
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Gotcha, I see haisley has some HD 35sp axles for the front 60 with the one piece right side to bypass the shift motor, and a Detroit locker for the 4.10 and down crowd.

On the free spin kit I've heard of guys going with the premium locks but is there anything better?
 
DieselheaD said:
Gotcha, I see haisley has some HD 35sp axles for the front 60 with the one piece right side to bypass the shift motor, and a Detroit locker for the 4.10 and down crowd.

On the free spin kit I've heard of guys going with the premium locks but is there anything better?
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I buy all my shafts now though ems offroad. They are all yukon shafts and we haven't had any issues with them. They have a nice cad delete kit package that's very nicely priced. Also if it was me I would do a true Detroit and solid slugs instead of lockout hubs. That's what's our setup and it steers like a daily driver with a good hydraulic steering setup. You don't have to fight it whatsoever.
 
jones95runner said:
I buy all my shafts now though ems offroad. They are all yukon shafts and we haven't had any issues with them. They have a nice cad delete kit package that's very nicely priced. Also if it was me I would do a true Detroit and solid slugs instead of lockout hubs. That's what's our setup and it steers like a daily driver with a good hydraulic steering setup. You don't have to fight it whatsoever.
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That is a good setup, I am not a fan of the lockouts on a puller, seem to be prone to breaking, so use the drive flanges like you mentioned, and EMS is a good place to deal with.
 
zstroken said:
That is a good setup, I am not a fan of the lockouts on a puller, seem to be prone to breaking, so use the drive flanges like you mentioned, and EMS is a good place to deal with.
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By far I think it's one of the best upgrades we've done to the whole truck. Back in the day running a welded chunk and the posi lock kit was the biggest pain in the rear.
 
Ems has some nice slugs, I don't like the idea of manually locking and unlocking anyways. Thanks for the advice :Cheer:
 
DieselheaD said:
I meant to say east coast gear supply has a nice hub drive kit.


Anyone here done an alumminum Hub kit ??

http://www.racinginthedirt.com/ritd-hub-kits---parts.html
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Kecks Machine makes a nice looking front setup for less money.

FWIW, I run 35 spline Dana inners, 30 spline Chevy outers, and Chevy brakes/hubs/spindles with Warn heavy duty lockouts and a welded carrier. So far thats all I've gotten to hold up. I had one lock out hub fail on me once, but lifetime warranty took care of that.
 
bigstacks95 said:
Kecks Machine makes a nice looking front setup for less money.

FWIW, I run 35 spline Dana inners, 30 spline Chevy outers, and Chevy brakes/hubs/spindles with Warn heavy duty lockouts and a welded carrier. So far thats all I've gotten to hold up. I had one lock out hub fail on me once, but lifetime warranty took care of that.
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Good info thanks bud. Kecks has got some really nice stuff.

Why not run 35 spline stub shafts as well?

Sent from my SM-T230NU using Tapatalk
 
bigstacks95 said:
Its just what I had around. Someday I will change them. For now they've held up fine
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Could I pick up this

http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-18954710-chevy-gm-dana-60-chromoly-kit.html

And the kecks aluminum hub conversion/brake kit


25789360285_d5172c098e_b.jpg



Spindles that I don't have to re drill?

Locknuts/seals/bearings and I would have a complete freespin kit right?
 
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In my puller I have Yukon 35 splines, a Yukon grizzly locker, spintek free spin hub kit with upgraded outer shafts, Yukon super joints, and a Branik hub kit that keeps it locked all the time.
 
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