driveshaft length

My front driveshaft didn't break per se. The u-joint failed and led to the front driveshaft breaking the transfer case. However, it did fail under the previous owner. But considering there is a front and rear u-joint and the double cardan joint any of those probably were to blame as well. My transfer case was at the tipping point for some anyways. Some people have good luck with mods and the DLD holding up, others break. I don't think my power really did it, but never know!

1pieceatatime: what are the part numbers for the spicer forged joints? I've tried finding them but I cannot determine exactly what they are. Thanks in advance.
 
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USARMY12V said:
My front driveshaft didn't break per se. The u-joint failed and led to the front driveshaft breaking the transfer case. However, it did fail under the previous owner. But considering there is a front and rear u-joint and the double cardan joint any of those probably were to blame as well. My transfer case was at the tipping point for some anyways. Some people have good luck with mods and the DLD holding up, others break. I don't think my power really did it, but never know!

1pieceatatime: what are the part numbers for the spicer forged joints? I've tried finding them but I cannot determine exactly what they are. Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

Part number for Forged spicers for a 2nd Gen front driveshaft would be 5-1330x for the CV head, and some were 5-1330x at the front diff while others are 5-811x. The 5-811x is large chrysler or 7290 series, easiest way to spot them is that have inside snap rings.
 
Any idea what my current MOOG 458 would cross reference to one of those? It's mind boggling why there's so many variances.
 
Here is a picture of the driveshaft in question. Perhaps you can tell which u-joint it needs by looking at it?
imagebcqf.jpg

Boot looks in good shape at least...
imagexbo.jpg

Here is the factory tag
imageppb.jpg

Here is a few of the double cardan joint. Looks like it might be needing a change as well?
imagejqk.jpg

imageukm.jpg

imagelqog.jpg

imageyfxh.jpg


And here is the result of the u-joint exploding...
imagevqk.jpg
 
The joint you lost was either a 1330 or a 1330 x 7290. 5-790 or 5-796 The cv head can be rebuilt without having to replace the stud yoke or flange from the binding up and bending in the one side on the clip lock up
 
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USARMY12V said:
Here is a picture of the driveshaft in question. Perhaps you can tell which u-joint it needs by looking at it?
imagebcqf.jpg

Boot looks in good shape at least...
imagexbo.jpg

Here is the factory tag
imageppb.jpg

Here is a few of the double cardan joint. Looks like it might be needing a change as well?
imagejqk.jpg

imageukm.jpg

imagelqog.jpg

imageyfxh.jpg


And here is the result of the u-joint exploding...
imagevqk.jpg
Click to expand...

Look at the tag, the Dana Part# can be used to decipher what the original parts were. 921782-1515 is the part number. 921782 is the assembly number, 1515 is the tube length. If you enter the part number minus the tube length into the box here and click parts list, it will give you a break down. http://www2.dana.com/expertforms/depart.aspx

Supershafts said:
The joint you lost was either a 1330 or a 1330 x 7290. 5-790 or 5-796 The cv head can be rebuilt without having to replace the stud yoke or flange from the binding up and bending in the one side on the clip lock up
Click to expand...

5-790 has been superceded to the 5-1330x, the 5-796x was replaced by 5-7437x.
 
Just for those wondering, I got my DHD in tonight. The DHD was made in OCT 97, so I'm assuming it came off a 24V auto as my 1998 12V was produced 11-21-1989 as a truck with the transfer case have Jan 97 build date. Originally I was sure I was going to have to get it cut, but once I got it in there it actually fit! So a QCLB 12V 47RE 241 DLD shaft actually fits a 241 DHD swap straight up. It was not as easy to bolt the carrier as the shaft was tighter but it moved freely so all is well. However, the shift linkage from my old one is currently an inch too short, which ideally I could move the slide to fix, but since the slide is rusted to the shaft I'll have to weld a bolt onto it to attach back to the shifter. Still resolving front driveshaft issue. Will update fitment.
 
I jinxed myself, need to cut it .5in it's too tight, tail shaft leaking fluid. Just my luck!
 
Here is a picture. Is half an inch enough? Or more?
imagexzb.jpg

It's clearly riding deeper than it was with the DLD, but I don't want to cut too much obviously.
 
I can't remember what the drveshaft shop said, but call them and they'll tell you how much it should be out of the slip.
 
USARMY12V said:
Here is a picture. Is half an inch enough? Or more?
imagexzb.jpg

It's clearly riding deeper than it was with the DLD, but I don't want to cut too much obviously.
Click to expand...

Looks like it needs to be shortened maybe an inch. Maybe an inch and a half.

Assuming that slip yoke is the typical one that use for the DHD, which would be around 7" center of joint-end.
 
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The yoke was shorter than my DLD's for whatever reason. It says Spicer on it and has no evidence of being shortened. Any idea on what it costs to cut and rebalance? I'm assuming like $100.
 
USARMY12V said:
The yoke was shorter than my DLD's for whatever reason. It says Spicer on it and has no evidence of being shortened. Any idea on what it costs to cut and rebalance? I'm assuming like $100.
Click to expand...

Ide say thats in the ball park. I charge and hour and a half to shorten and balance a single piece driveshaft.
 
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