Chris Tobin
New member
Great fab work and cool rig. Once you get it finished we'll need to get together to shoot it for a magazine feature article...
2003 F350 w/ Vp44 and a 47RE.
- Thread starter jgsturbo
- Start date
Chris Tobin
New member
If your in the NW hit me up
I lived there many years ago but haven't been back in forever... We'll have to find someone local to shoot it when you are finished.
Gotcha, I know there is at least one guy that has shot my buddies drag truck #partylikeits1999
At this rate that poor twin turbo LS buggy is hitting the back burner.
Flying back to Minnesota for a meeting then this truck has to be ready to tow 15k 10hrs over the cascades and back to visit our relatives ranch next to the now infamous Malheur reserve. Trails and varmit hunting
Well have I got a story...
New converter in, hitch up (12k toyhauler) take off. All the sudden in town its starts stalling as you come to a stop like its locked up. Then you go to take off and it locks the converter as soon as you get above idle. Come back home, yank valve body nothing can be seen in the boost valve, switch valve etc. Found the boost valve spring flat so find a similar spring no difference. Finally pull OD sol and find a bunch of stuff covering the screens. Clean out boom its normal again.
Hit the road- here's the point where I discover were I went "FULL" retard....
Line blows off the intercooler coolant side. I didn't think about putting a pressure relief tank on the intercooler coolant - closed system = boom.
No way to patch it had to drive sans intercooler. Egts hated me, coolant temps hated me, not a good time. Eventually I had to pull a hill and I didn't have the heater on (hot af)... 251deg and 1540 EGT (for about 10 sec)... It pukes out, we refill. Now we start hearing a KNOCK...sounds like valve train. No choice but to drive it. Doesn't get worse but never goes away.
Find the local shop, turn off cylinder 6 noise reduces. Swap injector holes 3-6 sound stays with #6 (my fav). Leave my trailer 10hrs from home to limp it home. We're thinking worse cases - rod bearing, cam lobe, piston. Pull pan (no fun), bearings good. Cam looks fine. Piston is tight in the bore (no white smoke or signs of dead hole either). Check valve train- #6 push rod is straight (can't pull without motor pull). But #6 exhaust rocker is LOOSE like 0.039 fits and 0.045 doesn't. Adjuster looks like it backed out a hair.
SO now its getting dual core alum radiator, 180 tstat, etc. We cobbled together a pressure relief tank at NAPA while we were diag the rattle. It seems like the IC is working well.
New converter in, hitch up (12k toyhauler) take off. All the sudden in town its starts stalling as you come to a stop like its locked up. Then you go to take off and it locks the converter as soon as you get above idle. Come back home, yank valve body nothing can be seen in the boost valve, switch valve etc. Found the boost valve spring flat so find a similar spring no difference. Finally pull OD sol and find a bunch of stuff covering the screens. Clean out boom its normal again.
Hit the road- here's the point where I discover were I went "FULL" retard....
Line blows off the intercooler coolant side. I didn't think about putting a pressure relief tank on the intercooler coolant - closed system = boom.
No way to patch it had to drive sans intercooler. Egts hated me, coolant temps hated me, not a good time. Eventually I had to pull a hill and I didn't have the heater on (hot af)... 251deg and 1540 EGT (for about 10 sec)...
It pukes out, we refill. Now we start hearing a KNOCK...sounds like valve train. No choice but to drive it. Doesn't get worse but never goes away. Find the local shop, turn off cylinder 6 noise reduces. Swap injector holes 3-6 sound stays with #6 (my fav). Leave my trailer 10hrs from home to limp it home. We're thinking worse cases - rod bearing, cam lobe, piston. Pull pan (no fun), bearings good. Cam looks fine. Piston is tight in the bore (no white smoke or signs of dead hole either). Check valve train- #6 push rod is straight (can't pull without motor pull). But #6 exhaust rocker is LOOSE like 0.039 fits and 0.045 doesn't. Adjuster looks like it backed out a hair.
SO now its getting dual core alum radiator, 180 tstat, etc. We cobbled together a pressure relief tank at NAPA while we were diag the rattle. It seems like the IC is working well.
Red Sleeper
Active member
Damnit man!
I’m confused with pressure relief intercooler coolant.
All the rest sounds like my kind of luck.
I’m confused with pressure relief intercooler coolant.
All the rest sounds like my kind of luck.
An air to water intercooler is a hot water system. You need ~15psi or so to prevent the coolant from boiling away. But if its a closed system (no relief cap) huge pressure builds as soon as things get hot. Expansion tanks work great because the line from the intercooler is always under water and it freely allows the water volume to expand and contract.
WEEEEEELLLLL FACKKK.
I'm out of ideas.
Over heat while towing 13K up a hill hot and smokey. 250deg coolant and 1500deg egt.
Initial diagnosis shut down #6 knocking noise reduces. Inspection camera shows a bright shiny piston almost melted look.
Knock sounds like bottom end with some valve tick.
Drove 600miles home
Pulled pan- check rod bearings, look great
Pan on
Checked valve lash, everything is a little loose - adjusted intakes and exhaust.
Start up - valve train tick gone, deep knock after 30 seconds runtime.
Pull pan -check mains - decent wear - replace mains.
Start up still knocks after 30 sec.
Knock goes away under decel and shutting down #6.
No white smoke, stethoscope says its in the block and not the head and around the back of the motor.
While pan was off and #6 rod bearing was off we checked the bore of #6 and tried to move the wrist pin to see if it was loose. Nothing abnormal was noted.
Cam looks good, no abnormal wear.
Next step?
I'm out of ideas.
Over heat while towing 13K up a hill hot and smokey. 250deg coolant and 1500deg egt.
Initial diagnosis shut down #6 knocking noise reduces. Inspection camera shows a bright shiny piston almost melted look.
Knock sounds like bottom end with some valve tick.
Drove 600miles home
Pulled pan- check rod bearings, look great
Pan on
Checked valve lash, everything is a little loose - adjusted intakes and exhaust.
Start up - valve train tick gone, deep knock after 30 seconds runtime.
Pull pan -check mains - decent wear - replace mains.
Start up still knocks after 30 sec.
Knock goes away under decel and shutting down #6.
No white smoke, stethoscope says its in the block and not the head and around the back of the motor.
While pan was off and #6 rod bearing was off we checked the bore of #6 and tried to move the wrist pin to see if it was loose. Nothing abnormal was noted.
Cam looks good, no abnormal wear.
Next step?
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Exactly. And could also be the reason the piston is clean...dripping fuel not atomizing it.
Forgot to add we did that at the first diagnosis, swapped 3 for 6.
Ya I hear ya, we looked too. :nail: maybe not close enough or what I was feeling was out of view.
When this is done maybe I need a 6.7l block , talk about grunt.