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Old 11-12-2023, 03:30 PM   #141
Cowboys4Christ
 
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Looks good!
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Old 11-12-2023, 11:28 PM   #142
56cummins

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That came out nice.
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Old 11-19-2023, 08:08 PM   #143
CTD2500
 
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Thanks, fellas.

A small update, I added a small bracket to the crossover pipe to hold it more steady. It already had one bracket in the middle that attached to the valve cover stud, but because both ends of the pipe are attached by silicone boots, it wobbled around more than I liked.

I didnít feel like stripping the paint, welding and repainting, so I just used a T-bolt clamp as a mounting stud, which attaches to a small bracket that bolts to the VGT actuator. Much more solid now.

Click the image to open in full size.

As for driving, I noticed an improvement at full throttle with the new pipes. Primary boost was up 1-2 psi, and total was up about a pound. The new pipe either flows better than that skinny old Y-pipe, or itís the result of having all those leaky welds fixed. Probably both, I think.

Any improvement is good, though.
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95 Ram 2500 4X4 RCLB, 4K GSK, 19į, DDP4 injectors, 7mm DV, two 257/362 SXE triples, 178-208 cam, ported head, 2 intercoolers, SS manifold, 5" exhaust, Goerend T/C, ATS V/B, built auto w/ billet input, 4th Gen brakes
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Old 11-20-2023, 06:49 AM   #144
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Man you are one handy son of a gun. Awesome work with the truck and you lay it out well here on the forum too.
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Old 11-20-2023, 05:23 PM   #145
CTD2500
 
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Thanks, man. The compliments are appreciated!

I didnít bring up the delivery valve thing in this thread because I wasnít sure what to say about it at the time. It was too early to tell; the first startup is always rough when thereís air in the lines and all that, but after this morning I knew something was different.
That said, I may have jumped the gun starting that other thread if all it took was some extra preboost. I didnít think it would be that easy to fix, but I guess Iíll wait to see what it does in the morning before I do/say anything else.
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Old 11-20-2023, 05:44 PM   #146
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I’m interested to see what works for you. I’ve plaid a heck of a game trying to get my truck to pop off as quick as others do. It will crank the second you touch the key IF you put a toe on the pedal. Otherwise it takes a second or two. Two totally different scenarios I’m sure but I like soaking up all I can with these pumps.
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Old 11-20-2023, 07:17 PM   #147
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Iíll certainly let you know how it turns out. Iím pretty good with AFC tuning and what not, but messing with starting/idling/governors isnít something Iíve done much of. What have you tried on yours so far?
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Old 11-21-2023, 06:15 AM   #148
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I’ve played with gov spring tension the most. Adjusted idle to match each time. Pre boost in different increments. Could change a lot of things, but never got it to fire off quickly without some fuel pedal.

My pump had been played with before I purchased so I’m not sure of what gov springs it has just fairly certain they are 4k’s. It also has racked barrels so I’m not sure if that plays into as well.
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Old 12-24-2023, 10:03 PM   #149
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A small bit of work done on the Cockshutt 30.

The clutch pedal was quite wobbly, which I think I mentioned a number of months back. We managed to get it finished, finally, by boring out the egg-shaped hole and pressing in a bushing to bring it back to original size. Rides nice and tight on the shaft now.

Click the image to open in full size.

I havenít gotten much else done on it; thereís still a pile of parts waiting to be stripped, but I havenít been rushing on that since Iím still waiting on the engine adapter anyway.

Iíve spent some time messing with the truck as well. A few months back, I saw one of FirePunkís videos on YouTube where they dynoed a 3rd gen truck with over 700hp. They pointed out that it had one of those FTE style spiral resonators in it, which they say are restrictive to flow, and after removing it for a straight pipe, it dynoed about 120hp higher.


I happen to have an FTE resonator in my truck, which is meant to kill the drone, although between 110 and 120km/h it drones anyway. So I decided to get rid of it, and I picked up a new muffler for it to see how it flows and sounds.


The muffler is a Donaldson M100463, which is a 51Ē big truck muffler. Itís supposed to be decently quiet, yet it flows about 3300 CFMófar more than Iíll ever need.

Here it is. (Iíve been having hydro issues in my garage, which I havenít had time to fix yet; thatís why itís dark in the picture.)
Click the image to open in full size.


Hereís the inside. Itís a straight-through design with the perforated inner tube, but about 2/3 of the way through thereís some kind of velocity funnel or something. I dunno how it works, but itís kind of interesting.
Click the image to open in full size.

So, I am removing the FTE resonator as well as the muffler that came with my 5Ē exhaustówhich I think was from Diamond Eye. Itís a standard 30Ē long straight-through performance muffler.

After removing the old exhaust, I had to move the middle hanger, which was pretty easy since it just bolts to the frame. This particular hanger bracket is welded to the exhaust clamp, and since the Donaldson muffler is so much longer, the hanger had to be moved 20Ē forward in order to line up with the muffler inlet where the clamp needs to be. That was easy: just drill holes and bolt it on.

Red arrow: stock location. Green arrow: new location. There was already a hole there, so I ended up only having to drill one hole.
Click the image to open in full size.

And here it is all bolted up.
Click the image to open in full size.


That all happened about a week ago. I could have finished it that day, but I ended up being about 2Ē short on pipe, and the big truck exhaust shop was closed. So I had to go during the week to get a piece of pipe and I finished it today, on Christmas Eve of all days.

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

So thatís that, there shouldnít be any exhaust flow issues going forward. I didnít bother starting it, so Iíll have to report later on how it sounds. It may not have had flow issues before, honestly, but at least now Iíve removed all doubt.

What Iím working on this winter is maximizing my system to make sure the turbo setup is able to work to its full potential, the exhaust upgrade being part of the mix.

The other thing I got into was making a bigger intake horn and cold side charge pipe.
I know this type of thing isnít really a game-changer, nor could I ever justify spending several hundred on a fancy cast elbow, but for the cost of materials plus the enjoyment of building something makes it worth the effort for me.

Click the image to open in full size.

Anyway, I was able to make a 3.5Ē intake horn one afternoon. Not too difficult, aside from using an adjustable wrench to form the end that welds onto the flange into a square to transition it a little nicer into the cylinder head. I have no grid heateróand havenít for several years, since I donít winter drive itóso I just run my intake horn directly on top of a Crazy Carlís Tunnel Ram, which Iíve had sinceÖ honestly, I canít even remember.

Hereís the engine with the horn off. If it was possible, I would have made a twin-ram intake, but the primary intercooler pipe makes that too much of a challenge. Also, the injection lines on P-pump trucks really limits intake options!
Click the image to open in full size.

Here is the 3.5Ē setup I came up with, compared to the old 3Ē system I had. Itís actually surprising how big it is in person.
Click the image to open in full size.

I didnít really like having to neck the bottom of the charge pipe down to 3Ē, but I couldnít find a boot that could do what I needed. I doubt thatíll really hurt flow much anyway. (FYI, I have an On3 intercooler, which has 3Ē connections, rather than the factory 3.625Ē or whatever they are.)
Click the image to open in full size.

Here is the flange. I ported it out basically to the gasket, although its opening area still reduces down a bit from the 3.5Ē pipe. I think thatís about the biggest inlet you can get without going twin-ram.
Click the image to open in full size.

That just needs to be TIG welded and then painted, then it can be installed.

The third thing I did, which I think may be the most effective, is a new intercooler for the primary stage. As mentioned before, I had mounted a Treadstone TR1235 behind the bumper, but since that time, Treadstone came out with an R-Rated (race) version of this intercooler. It has the same dimensions, meaning it is a straight swap to install, but it has a denser core that can flow about 250 CFM more (1142 vs 1393).

Because this core is so dense, it shouldnít be ran in front of a radiator as it can restrict flow and cause the engine coolant to run hot. Since mine is behind the bumper all by itself, thereís no reason I canít run it.

Here it is. If you count the passages, it has 22 for your boost to flow through, compared to the regular unit which has 18.
So anyway, this unit just needs to be painted and swapped in. It will be interesting to see if primary boost comes up at all. Was there a pressure drop with the current one?
Click the image to open in full size.

This is the only picture I can find of the regular TR1235. You can see the spacing between the passages is bigger, meaning less paths for boost to flow.
Click the image to open in full size.


Anyway, thatís about all for now. Hope everyone has a good holiday.
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Old 12-24-2023, 11:57 PM   #150
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Where's the like button when you need it? Looking good! Have a blessed Christmas!
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Old 01-06-2024, 10:04 AM   #151
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Just a quick update before I go on vacation for a week.

Last weekend I got the truck parts painted. I brought the space heater from the basement and let it run all day so the temperature in the garage (in the small section behind the curtain) was half decent. I donít think it was quite warm enough, but it worked OK. I donít lose much sleep if truck parts donít look perfect since they get dirty anyway.

Click the image to open in full size.

Mid week I managed to install the pipes/intake horn after work. The pictures donít do it justice; bumping up to a 3.5Ē pipe really makes this thing huge, especially when holding it in your hands.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

You can see here why a twin-ram would be out of the question. Not that it would make any real power difference anyway.
Click the image to open in full size.

So for the cost of materials I managed to satisfy my OCD about maximizing flow into the head, even though I know it wonít make a difference that could be felt. Better than buying one for the vendorís price; I think the Pusher 3.5Ē is over $700 for me, once I pay for shipping and exchange to Canadian dollars, plus the angle on it was all wrong. It goes straight out from the head and almost touches the master cylinder, which leaves no room for the primary intercooler pipe. All brands looked like they were made like this, in fact, so I think I had to make my own regardless.

No progress on the tractor, unfortunately. When I get back, I have to commit to stripping those rear-end partsóthe seat, the floor panels, etc.
As well as installing the new intercooler into the truck, which I didnít have time for this week.
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Old 01-06-2024, 06:47 PM   #152
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Well, I lied. I had a bit of time this morning before we left, and there is supposed to be a snow storm here this week while weíre away, so I managed to stab that intercooler in. It was cold today, but itíll be worse if thereís two feet of snow on the ground.

Anyway, I wasnít sure how easy this swap would be since I installed that intercooler while the bumper was off, so I didnít know if it would slide out without removing the bumper, or if I could even reach the bolts. That would suck, because I hate having to adjust it straight when reinstalling it.

Luckily, it only took an hour and a half. The bolts were tricky to reach, plus the mounts I made are bolted to the frame using springs from an exhaust bolt kit for a Honda. I mounted it like that so any frame flex would allow the mounts to give without bending or cracking the intercooler. The issue this caused was that when the bolts are removed from the cooler, the springs make the brackets pull out of line so the bolt holes didnít line up. It was a challenge to line them up while starting the bolts with my fingertips (with numb fingers), but I managed it eventually. The boots just unclamp and pull out of the way, which was nice.

The first step was to remove the lower valanceówhich was not original on this truck; I had to purchase one and add it to help hide the cooler (plus add holes for cooling flow).
Click the image to open in full size.

Then undo the clamps, pull the boots off and then unbolt the cooler from the brackets by reaching up inside with the electric ratchet. Then the cooler just drops out.

Here are the two units compared.
Click the image to open in full size.

The difference is more apparent when looking into the inlets. You can see how much smaller the spaces are between the passages on the new one.
Click the image to open in full size.

There is a divider that guides air to the upper half of the core, which is what appears to block half of the inlet.
Click the image to open in full size.

Anyway, the new one (which is a bit heavier) slides up into place, at which point I wrestled with the bolts as described above. Then reconnect the boots.
Click the image to open in full size.

There were a couple other little brackets to tighten, then the lower valance goes back on and thatís a wrap. Glad I was able to sneak it in.
Click the image to open in full size.

OK, thatís it for a bit.
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Old 01-06-2024, 10:21 PM   #153
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I love those treadstone end tanks with the diverter !! Its totally worth the potential increased pressure drop across the cooler just to gain alot more cooling effiency out of the same core.

I copied the treadstone diverter design for my crappy universal intercooler on the inlet side when I flipped the endtank so that it has diagonal flow to help scrub better. Its not ideal compared to a more balanced flowing endtank but its a step in the right direction VS a "universal fitment intercooler".

Those on3 intercoolers could benefit from using an endtank diverter.
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Old 01-09-2024, 03:49 PM   #154
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Iíve found the Treadstone units to be of very nice quality. Too bad I canít fit a bigger one in that space. It would also be cool if they made a 2nd gen Cummins upgrade, but I donít think diesel is their market.

Yeah, the On3 units are definitely a ďyou get what you pay forĒ scenario, especially as far as fitment goes. The mounting tabs arenít exactly placed with precision. On top of the lack of diverters as you say, I also donít like how the inlets are 3Ē OD, but are cast fairly thick so the ID is 2.75Ē or even less.

I do prefer the idea of constant diameter 3Ē inlets because the factory 3.6Ē ones have that goofy half-cut passage that goes around the rad. They need to be a true 3Ē ID though, even if the OD is 3.25Ē or so. They are a good upgrade over stock though; Horsetorques YouTube channel did back-to-back dyno testing on a 2nd gen that had a 1000hp common rail swap and it gained over 70hp with the On3, outlet temps went from roughly 170 down to 120. (vs stock).
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Old 02-04-2024, 05:12 PM   #155
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I finally pushed myself to do a bit of cleaning on some tractor parts. I found quite a few welding repairs along the way; it would be interesting to know who did these fixesóand when.

Anyway, I did most of the clutch pedal. There are some recessed sections along the sides to get into, but IĒll have to switch brushes to do that.
Click the image to open in full size.

Got the PTO shield 99% done. It has some rust pitting on it, so itíll be a good candidate to try that spray-on filler again. Also, I found a weld repair where one of the bolt tabs had broken off (presumably). Pretty nice weld, honestly.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

Then I moved onto the drawbar.
Click the image to open in full size.

It was covered in gear oil from rear end leaks, so I took it apart and cleaned it off with some degreaser. It has quite a few of the typical wear marks on it, along with a few breaks, some of which are already fixed.

The underside of the hitch looks like itís been built up with weld. Probably worn off a fair bit and got a little thin. Iíll probably just leave it since itís out of sight when installed.
Click the image to open in full size.

One of the support brackets looks like it had broken off at some point and was re-welded. I ground off the high spots just to straighten it out a bit. That bolt hole looks oblonged a bit; I might put some weld in there and grind it round again, but I didnít get that far.
Click the image to open in full size.

There was also a crack in the bolt hole for that support bracket on the actual hitch. It was small enough to be filled in by paint, but not too hard to spot. I forgot to get a picture of it, but here it is ground clean and welded up.
Click the image to open in full size.

And then reground.
Click the image to open in full size.

The swing bar had some wear where the drawbar sits, which looked like it was welded and reground at some point. Itís hard to see in the picture, but you can see the shadow of the raised area above that centre-right hole.
Click the image to open in full size.

Finally, we can see the main 3/4Ē bolt holes where the hitch attaches to the chassis. They are worn pretty badly, just like the holes in the tractor so Iíll just enlarge them to use 7/8Ē bolts, which is what I did in the tractor. That should tighten it up plenty.
Click the image to open in full size.


Thatís all for now. The plan is to continue on next weekend. Iím strongly considering buying a small vise to attach to the wall behind the plastic curtain so I donít have to hold the parts with one hand while grinding with the other. The vise on my bench isnít in a great spot and I donít like getting dust all over that area.

Side note. The roads were clean and dry today, so I took the truck out for a little run around the block. I never went full throttle, but I did get to hear the new exhaustókind of, with the window down while driving next to buildings. Seems to sound OK, not overly loud. Lots of turbo whistle, which is always good.

I have to say though, Iím not a huge fan of the 7mm delivery valves. Itís still a bit harder to start, and feels less peppy on the low end compared to the 024s. It seemed a bit down on boost as well, but I think that was just a mental/visual thing because I upgraded to a 100psi boost gauge, and I think it just looks like less boost because the sweep is more condensed.

I do a have pretty significant purchase coming in the mail this week, which I think will help this truck run better. More on that later.
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Old 02-05-2024, 09:31 AM   #156
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Good stuff. I run a similar Donaldson muffler but 31”. I like it a lot.
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Old 02-19-2024, 09:05 PM   #157
CTD2500
 
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OK, I got a good bit of the drawbar cleaned up. Lots of worn areas that have been welded up, which is fine by me.

Thereís the ďfinishedĒ pile next to the wheel.
Click the image to open in full size.

Got this side of the drawbar done, but if you flip it over thereís a lot left to do. It being below freezing in the garage doesnít help either.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

I think I mentioned before that cleaning the smaller parts was kind of a pain, holding the part in one hand while using the grinder with the other. Itís pretty unstable like that; if the wire wheel catches, it takes offósometimes towards me. The vice is on the bench outside of the curtained-off area, where I donít want dust gathering anymore. If I can help it, that is.

So I decided to try a mini vice I found on Amazon for about $35, and screwed some wood to the wall behind the curtain where Iíve grinding/painting to mount the new vice to.
Click the image to open in full size.

It works not too badóbetter than holding the part in my handóand in fact it holds onto decent-sized pieces fairly well. Large items like the drawbar are too heavy for it, but they generally stay put on the floor anyway.
Click the image to open in full size.


So thatís that, just chipping away at it. No movement on the engine adapter yet.

I had previously mentioned a new item for my truck, which has since arrived. Used, but came off of a running truck. This one, unlike my 160 pump, has notches on top of the plungersóhint hint.
Click the image to open in full size.

I have prepped it with a new mounting seal, swapped my 024 DVs into it and added the 2095 rack plug, but it has been packed up again for now, since the weather is not permitting me to swap it into the truck. Iíll wait until it warms up, closer to when I start driving it again.

The only other thing of interest is an impulse buy from ebay that I made on Saturday. I was scrolling through idly, looking at turbo stuff when I came across this item:
Click the image to open in full size.

Itís an upgraded turbine housing based off of the HE351 9cm unit, but you can see in the picture that it has the four bolt holes to mount the cartridge, rather than a v-band like the HE351. Iím pretty sure itís a Savage Fab housing, except this seller (whose store is full of random stuff) had it listed for $149. The Hero housings, as Savage Fab calls them, are about $600 so I grabbed it, even though I donít know if Iíll ever have a use for it.

When it gets here Iíll be sure to update with measurements and comparisons with a stock 351 housing.
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