F250/Cummins Swap

[biggy238]

Fabricated the charge air pipe on the driver side. Got a CSF metal tank intercooler for what I thought was a good price. Bought AC lines and cut/spliced the dodge compressor hose to the Ford hoses. Sectioned out the dodge cooler lines to repurpose them as the resevoir to water pump inlet tubing. I thought I took a picture of the one under the manifold but I don't have it

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[WUnderwood]

Keep up the good work!

[bracker8040]

Looking great, Kyle!
I’ve used a number of CSF intercoolers on 7.3’s and 6.0’s. Really like them.
What are the quick connect fittings on top of the oil filter base for?

[biggy238]

I used them to check pressure at the base. I had a screw up and ran the engine with the crank-case ventilation sealed. Oil started to discharge from the turbo as a result.
I heard the hiss from the crank-case before the turbo started discharging oil, so I opened the oil fill cap to vent the engine. After that, the turbo passing oil didn't seem to stop passing. I talk to Zach about it, made all the routine checks (oil supply, oil return), then pulled the turbo and sent it to him. Turbo checked out OK.
I think I just got ahead of myself on the whole thing.



Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[bracker8040]

Originally Posted by biggy238

I used them to check pressure at the base. I had a screw up and ran the engine with the crank-case ventilation sealed. Oil started to discharge from the turbo as a result.
I heard the hiss from the crank-case before the turbo started discharging oil, so I opened the oil fill cap to vent the engine. After that, the turbo passing oil didn't seem to stop passing. I talk to Zach about it, made all the routine checks (oil supply, oil return), then pulled the turbo and sent it to him. Turbo checked out OK.
I think I just got ahead of myself on the whole thing.



Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

10-4. Thought it might be for that, or to prelube it.

[Got Smoke?]

I honestly didn't weed through all 11 pages Kyle, but are you doing the harness yourself? If so what sources are you using?

[biggy238]

I stripped an OEM 6.7 harness, bought a roll of 7 or 9 color bulk TXL wire from eBay.
I reused most of my sensor connectors, and replaced some with the pre-made OEM cummins harness repair ends.
Wirecare.com and partsexpress.com have looming products and heat shrink.
Mouser electronics is an interesting place.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[biggy238]

Finally got my modified coolant tubes bolted on in their forever home. Added a tab to attach to a bell housing bolt. Still plenty of firewall clearance. Got the krookerd hose for the coolant reservoir. It's not going to play well with the. Intake horn. I got the majority of the cam lock connector populated. I had the bracket for the shifter lasered and then bent locally. Still sorting out the digital gear position indicator.

With that being said, does anyone have a writeup on converting the 47re to a 48re comb and range sensor?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[SmokeShow]

So clean and well thought out! Congrats, you're building a killer truck!

[biggy238]

I've got to get the transmission range sensor sorted out. The Ford pcm is proving to be cantankerous about the input.

If anyone has converted a 47 to a 48 comb and sensor I need info. Or a thread link?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[turbom700]

Maybe I missed it but what are you doing for a tach input?

[biggy238]

Originally Posted by turbom700

Maybe I missed it but what are you doing for a tach input?

I haven't crossed that bridge yet. The plan is to use a micro controller to buffer the Cummins crank position sensor. I have outputs for the cam and crank built into the engine harness.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[biggy238]

Originally Posted by SmokeShow

So clean and well thought out! Congrats, you're building a killer truck!

And thank you. I keep seeing things I would change but right now the #1 and #2 goal are make it run and forever.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[dustinjean]

to run the 48 comb i dont see why you cant just drop the vb and swap it on to the 47 as they use the same vb and ive seen lavon from firepunk talk on fb about putting the 48 range sensor in the 47 cases, it takes some drilling if i remember correctly a few guys have some jigs for drilling them straight then i guess they press the steel plate in for the mounting screws. im actually putting my vb back in my fummins today

[K204DR]

what did you use for paint on your block?

[biggy238]

Silver vein powder coat.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[biggy238]

Tech Flex F6 loom. This is the first time I've touched it. For now, it looks amazing. I'm also going to switch to shielded wire for the fan control.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[bateman]

Excellent work. Especially with that tig torch

[biggy238]

I wish I could dab like that. I use Michael at Kingspeed for skillz fab(ulous) skillz.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[biggy238]

Found some gates hoses at oriely's to finish up the passenger side hose connections. That lower radiator hose is just over 2.1" which is perfect for the Ford quick connect. The other end is 2" to mate to the 3rd Gen inlet. It has an internal spring to prevent collapse. The 2" side needs between 1.5 to 1.75 inches cut off to clear the frame with the DCS engine mounts. The destroked mounts put the engine to the driver side. I'm going to use a gates shrink band at the radiator end.

The heater hose is a 90° quick connect into a gates hose with two 90's turned out of phase. I'm mating this to the Ford heater hose and clamping it with oetiker clamps like OEM. This puts both heater hoses coming to the rear of the alternator before they diverge.

Has anyone had trouble with the Ford radiator hoses not wanting to clip on to an aftermarket radiator?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk