8.3L Cummins Transplant

[biggy238]

Originally Posted by BigPapa

Our P/S Pumps mount to the compressor with the standard flange.





Our pressure and return hoses have swivel 8MB (3/4-16 thread) fittings on them. From what I understand, BS (Before Scott), we made our own hoses. We used an 8MB-8MJ adapter and 8FJX on the hose in either straight, 45*, or 90* depending on fitment. The supply hose uses a 12MB(1 1/16"-14 thread)-12MJ 90* and 12FXJ on the hose.





Our pumps are 135bar, also.

What are the call signs on the fittings? Looks like Dash Size, metric, style/bend code?

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[BigPapa]

If you’re asking me, the small one is an 8MB-8MJ plus the angle if needed. The big one is 12MB-12MJ plus the angle.

8 = 1/2”
12 = 3/4”
MB = Male Boss (can also be referred to as ORB - O-ring Boss)
MJ = Male JIC

These are SAE, no metrics. That’s what confuses me, that Jory’s pump has metric threads. Especially if it’s off a Case tractor.

[biggy238]

Thank you for the explanation. I think the FJX was throwing me.

I would put a common pump on there and forget about the one he has.

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[BigPapa]

The hose has the FJX on it that mates to the MJ on the pump. This eliminates the need for a male boss swivel.

FJX = Female JIC Swivel

[4x4dually]

Well....it breaths...if you haven't seen it on facebook. Got some fuel in the tank and cranked it over. The fuel solenoid wouldn't pull in. I fought it for a while then ohmed it out. Read to be good. Grounded it in another place and wolla! Then I bled injector #1 for about 2 seconds and it lives!!!!

8.3L Cummins Transplant into GMC 7000 - YouTube

8.3L Cummins Transplant into GMC 7000 - YouTube

List for today:
Order longer throttle cable. Done. Y-263 from Amazon
Pickup a hydraulix filter from NAPA Wix 51759
Pickup a ball valve for the hydraulic tank to pump, needs a shut off. PTO pump still leaks so it may need pulled again later. If so, I can shut the tank off and not drain it all again. And the sump hose is 3" too short since the motor and PTO pump moved forward. That will let me use the same hose that I have.

Air compressor components should be here today!!!!!

I'm thinking I can have the power steering hose cut and just have another end put on it, the correct one, a M16x1.5. Forgot to bring to town.



Now...this hydraulic filter. I had a b1tch of a time getting that mofo off. I tried strap wrenches, I tried filter wrenches, I even drove a drift through the middle of it and tried to bar it off. Nothing would budge it. Everything just keep ripping the can off. Finally got one of them roller chain wrenches and got it to move. Holy crap. It kicked my butt. Probably been on there for 40 years.





And this clutch that Vallance sent me it a strong mofo too! Holy schidt! I may have to put hydraulics on the clutch. I'm not sure if this mechanical linkage is gonna work out.

[Destroked 450]

They make a easy pedal version of that clutch.
Did you look at the link for the fittings I posted?

[WUnderwood]

atta boy Jory!

[RockinRam96]

How heavy is the clutch? Maybe put a longer arm in the linkage to get more leverage?

I have a 2050 lb (torque rating, no idea what the pressure plate rating is) but it has two pivot points with a long arm for the through shaft on the bell housing. Probably 18" long.

[4x4dually]

Originally Posted by RockinRam96

How heavy is the clutch? Maybe put a longer arm in the linkage to get more leverage?

I have a 2050 lb (torque rating, no idea what the pressure plate rating is) but it has two pivot points with a long arm for the through shaft on the bell housing. Probably 18" long.

Ya, it has a pivot point mounted to the frame. I took all the pivots loose this weekend and cleaned, polished, and greased them for smooth operation. Then I got in the truck and was like holy fook!!!

The pivot has an arm 180 opposite each other. They are both the same length. I think I should be able to drill another hole on the arm going to the clutch and shorten that side of it. The longer side would be on the pedal side and should give it more leverage. I might try that tonight.

If that doesn't work, I'll have to torch the pivot bracket off the frame and move it down so that I can lengthen the top lever. It is right at the bottom of the cab floor.

[4x4dually]

Last night I got the sump hose hooked back up to the PTO pump. I started the motor and engaged the pump. Nothing moved. The filter wouldn't even fill up on the return. Started questioning everything. Then it hit me.....I had stuffed some paper towels in the hose so it wouldn't leak back when I took it apart. Thank God they didn't move and I was able to fish them out the hose with a coat hanger and not lose very much of the 10 gal of oil I had just filled the tank with. Dumbass.

In other news.....so the water and radiator is not plumbed yet. How long can I let the engine idle without any damage? I can let it idle for a minute or so without water, correct? Just as long as it doesn't run long enough to get anything hot? Compressor isn't plumbed yet either so it is unloaded basically.

[bracker8040]

Yeah, I wouldn’t be scared to let it idle for several minutes without any water.

Your paper towel episode reminded me of a time I left a paper towel on the one intake plenum on a 95 Powerstroke. No intercooler thankfully, and a stack on it. I started it, and after about 30 seconds it got this really muffled, miss, running funny sound. I was like what the, and then it popped a few times and smoothed right out. About like that, an enormous cloud of black, shredded up paper towel came rolling out the stack and blew all over the shop.

[malibu795]

Originally Posted by 4x4dually

Ya, it has a pivot point mounted to the frame. I took all the pivots loose this weekend and cleaned, polished, and greased them for smooth operation. Then I got in the truck and was like holy fook!!!

The pivot has an arm 180 opposite each other. They are both the same length. I think I should be able to drill another hole on the arm going to the clutch and shorten that side of it. The longer side would be on the pedal side and should give it more leverage. I might try that tonight.

If that doesn't work, I'll have to torch the pivot bracket off the frame and move it down so that I can lengthen the top lever. It is right at the bottom of the cab floor.

Want me to get roughly length measurements of my FL60? I got a 4 botton 14" DD from Dan..I don't consider it "hard".. but I'm not your bean pole self lol

[biggy238]

Found a red rag on the intake plenum on a 12V for a customer. He just knew he had blown the engine.
Had another tech lose a wipe-all towel. It wrapped around the #6 inlet valve on a C6.6/perkins in a tractor. They had done all kinds of things trying figure out what had happened. The rag had made a perfect fortune cookie shape and would hold the valve open periodically.

**it happens

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[4x4dually]

Dryer and governor are here. Unloader/Inlet and throttle cable are "out or delivery." I should have enough parts to keep me busy for a day or two now.

[4x4dually]

Well....I'm starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel. We backed it out and drove it back in the shop yesterday under her own power and man was that a great feeling.

I added a new hole to the clutch pivot and moved the adjuster going to the trans closer to the pivot. That made a huge difference. Much better.

Power steering is plumbed I just didn't have enough fluid to fill it until I go to the store today. I hope this pump that Signature600 sent me works. Cross our fingers!

All the air lines are done, dryer is on, etc. I only lack a power wire to the dryer. Builds pressure pretty quick. I do need to replace the yellow diamond valve in the truck though. It is leaky.

Radiator/core support is set and braces have been lengthened/welded/painted. I still need to weld or bolt the crossmember in place that supports the core.

I also need to figure out what kind of air filter I am going to put on it. Compressor housing has a 4" inlet. I may just get a dry filter and clamp it on????

The PTO pump seems to not be working. I have removed the sump line again and made sure it is getting full fluid flow from the tank. I've removed the pressure lines...they didn't have but a trace of fluid in them. The systems seems fine and is very simple. It goes to a PR valve, then a two port valve, them back to tank through a filter. I can't see the problem. The PTO is engaging all the way as far as the adjustment on the cable goes. The PTO direction of the old Eaton 5005 and this 5106 that I replaced it with are the same direction...at least that's what the shop tells me. It just won't pump. As soon as I get water in this dude I'll probably haul the truck back to Blumenthal in OKC and have them go through the pump again. The one instruction they had when they prepped the trans was "I don't want any leaks....seal it up good"....and it has dripped since the day I brought it home three years ago. They said they'd take care of it so it needs to go back anyway.

All in all...lots of progress!!!!

I'll try to get the alternator and oil pressure switch wired tonight and clean up all that wire in the picture that goes around the IP.

I'll still lack a dozen things including exhaust, hood stretch, the panels over the trans, flooring in the cab, etc....but nothing needed to use it at home. And don't you just love that power steering cooler line? Isn't that a work of art? What a joke.

[J-Pipes]

Put a hood stack on it!

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[4x4dually]

Originally Posted by J-Pipes

Put a hood stack on it!

You know...I have thought about it several times. It'd be easy as hell.

Last night I got all the coolant lines ran. Waiting on a thermostat from Mumau and some misc crap from amazon. I need a few clamps, a boot, etc. Should have everything Thursday and the tstat on Monday.

Got the oil temp sensor and alternator all wired up.

Question. On the coolant expansion tank. There is a hose coming from the top of the radiator (the expansion line), a hose coming from the bottom of the tank (big one, where the fluid goes back to the lower radiator hose and into the system again), a blow off (under the cap where it releases pressure to the ground and makes a mess), but then there is an other tiny one on the end. What the hell is the tiny one for?



And what sensor is in the tank? It wasn't wired up originally, it was torn off. Where would it go? Is it a pressure sensor or what?




Dang jigsaw puzzle I tell ya.



Progress progress progress.....

[4x4dually]

The surge tank is basically hooked up like this but I have one extra little port that is not shown in this diagram coming off the pressure tank. Not sure what to do with it.

And I don't have the overflow tank, I just sent it to the ground. ???

Could it be the "steam tube" coming from the block? If so, where the hell and what is the steam tube on an 8.3L?

[Snedge]

Just run the cap breather hose to the ground. In a perfect world, your cap will never pop off on the expansion tank.

[malibu795]

Steam tube is 1/8" NPT port before #1 exhaust ports on the head
Steam tube goes to coolant filter then expansion tank also have bleed tube from radiator to expansion tank