project: he351ve

"lil red sled" and my self are going to toss one of these VGT turbos on our rigs...braden got a killer deal on THREE holset he351ve turbos off the 6.7l cummins for FREE!!! so why not, if it doesnt work like we hoped then no big deal....

First off i just want to say these things are F'n massive...when lil red sled said they were big i was just like "ok what ever, it'll be fine" but when you see them in person you know there is no chance that these will fit in engine compartment with a big V8 IDI in there....







next to stock turbo on my engine





so needless to say we will have to "remote" mount them. they will go on the inside of the framerail near the T-case. I have a few NA factory exhaust pieces, i will cut off the flanges and weld new pipe how we need it routed. One thing that appeared to be an issue was the angle of the inlets and outlets of the housing in relation to oil feed / oil drain...so it needed to be clocked.

with the housings off there are little guide pins that need removed in order to be able to clock the housings so here are some pics of that....









and since i had the comp housing off i figured i might as well remove the silencer ring (braden said he wanted lots of whistle :doh although ive read that with the removal HP does drop slightly...since we might want to re install it later down the road id make it into and "anti surge" style ring



3 pins lock it in....they need drilled









so now we need to rig up a mechanical spring set up for the vgt adjustment arm....in case you guys aren't sure what i mean i made a small video....im sure you all know tho

He351ve function - YouTube

need to buy a few things for the actual install, and will update then. braden might try to use the factory "snail" hat or purchase a R&D intake, ill be going into my intercooler.

:charger:

You'd be better off to put that drilled ring back in, maybe go in and open up the slots. The open protrusion of the compressor wheel really takes away from the efficiency with that assembly removed. As for controls, I'd recommend using cooled drive pressure and a wastegate actuator. I've tried several control types on these VGTs over the years and that has proven to be the most consistent. Also, as I mentioned in the other project thread, limit the collar travel to about 2/3 open. If you look at the collar and it's relation to the turbine wheel through it's travel you'll see why. The collar will actually dip below the wheel quite a ways and there is a pedestal in there that creates a lot of turbulence. I've played with that adjustment before and watched boost to drive. When allowed to move past the bottom of the wheel, drive pressure does not drop, but boost does. Also, if you like, I can help you build a set up that will have in cab adjustability of the housing.

Might be a dumb question but why not just cut the firewall? Better yet put both batteries on one side an put the turbo in the open battery tray area?

BlackSkyRacing said:

You'd be better off to put that drilled ring back in, maybe go in and open up the slots. The open protrusion of the compressor wheel really takes away from the efficiency with that assembly removed. As for controls, I'd recommend using cooled drive pressure and a wastegate actuator. I've tried several control types on these VGTs over the years and that has proven to be the most consistent. Also, as I mentioned in the other project thread, limit the collar travel to about 2/3 open. If you look at the collar and it's relation to the turbine wheel through it's travel you'll see why. The collar will actually dip below the wheel quite a ways and there is a pedestal in there that creates a lot of turbulence. I've played with that adjustment before and watched boost to drive. When allowed to move past the bottom of the wheel, drive pressure does not drop, but boost does. Also, if you like, I can help you build a set up that will have in cab adjustability of the housing.

Click to expand...

i see what you mean there where its protruding out. how do you cool the drive pressure for the actuator?

2000_fummins said:

Might be a dumb question but why not just cut the firewall? Better yet put both batteries on one side an put the turbo in the open battery tray area?

Click to expand...

sounds like a plan! :Cheer:

i had to annihilate my wheel well, and cut up a big square of plastic out....ran out of gas for the welder so no laughing at my temporary mount bracket LOL

Holset vs factory turbo LOL



Looks like I had a nice exhaust leak too

Anyone know what the thread size is for the oil feed ? NPT, compression, AN ?

Dont remember the size for sure but it is a metric o-ring boss fitting that converts it to a o-ring face seal for the 6.7 oil line.

ninerqb8 said:

Dont remember the size for sure but it is a metric o-ring boss fitting that converts it to a o-ring face seal for the 6.7 oil line.

Click to expand...

Dam ok ill call up the stealer ship and see what I can do! Thanks!

91dirtydiesel said:

Dam ok ill call up the stealer ship and see what I can do! Thanks!

Click to expand...

If you have a hydraulic store around there they can get it for you. and you can go to whatever you want instead of having to use the o-ring face fitting.

sweet setup

M12x1.5 straight thread metric o-ring

BlackSkyRacing said:

M12x1.5 straight thread metric o-ring

Click to expand...

Thanks heading to American hose and fitting today then!

Got it running today, will take video soon (damn iPhone dropped and now video won't record sound! Urgh) need to figure out a good way to control the lever...maybe spring?

This method appears easy enough...objections?

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iiDAB2bB7t8"]Controlling HE351VE with a spring - YouTube[/ame]

Any pics from the passenger side fender well? Just curious to see how you supported it from the bottom.
Cool build.

need to finish exhaust, get intake boots still and get stiffer spring for the lever

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q4glxVLfwOc]Holset HE351VE on Ford idi diesel - YouTube[/ame]

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AioDpyfzwOg]7.3 idi HE351VE turbo whistle - YouTube[/ame][

So gotta fresh built 7.3 idi and a little bit of cash for extra stuff around how much did this cost you

Around 400 including misc parts and electric fuel pump

Think you could give me a break down of the parts needed at a how-to kinda think lol if you don't mind

Here is a rough guess

Turbo: what ever you pay for it
Factory NA y pipe: if you have one or not
Intercooler: $150
R&D intake: pm Racin
Silicone boots+ t bolt clams: 50-75$
2.5" mandrel bend kit (turbo up pipe): 50-75$
3" mandrel bend kit (intercooler pipe): 50-75$
4" downpipe + exhaust and intake: whatever you choose
Electric lift pump: mine was 150$
Fuel pump block off / oil drain: 15$
Oil fittings and line: 50$
Battery cables/ends: 30$
T3 flange / oil drain flange to modify: 20$
Hardware/metal/springs: 25$

Might be forgetting stuff but u get the idea