Endurance Engine 7.3 Help

[Jacob 76]

I'm in the process of building a desert racer out of my 97 F350 and am looking for ideas or opinions on what any of you have learned. Basically I want something around 500-550 HP but it needs to be able to live at that power level for hours. I know heat will be my biggest enemy and I've already planned on getting a custom much bigger radiator built for when I do the fiberglass front end. Some other ideas I've had are running ports on the pan and running an external oil cooler and building kickouts on the pan to increase oil capacity. Also it will be intercooled but I am up in the air as to what I should do for a turbo or possibly turbos. Piping for twins will be a nightmare because of my engine cage but it's still an option. I think spraying water meth would help quite a bit but placing a reservoir that will last several hours may be a problem and I'm not sure of what pump I could use that would handle that long of a load with that much vibration. Also any specific internal engine tricks that have worked for you guys like piston porting or things like that. I'm really not even sure who all makes cams for 7.3s now but any first hand experience would help. Ideas on who's pistons would work for prolonged heat, piston coatings, and even piston to wall clearances I'm sure will need to be opened up quite a bit, but how much I'm not sure. Basically any ideas you've got to make this thing live would be much appreciated.

[ironmax]

Your going to need a deep pocket. Those 7.3's need a lot of love to make power. Why not just shove a 12v in it? You could buy the motor and upgrades and still be cheaper than building your 7.3. And the Cummins dosent fry the oil like a power stroke. If your dead set on a 7.3 , call Rudy's or sinister, I'm sure there are others. Good luck with your project. Those obs trucks still look bad azz

[Snedge]

7.3 = 500 hp for minutes not hours.

[Win slow]

I disagree 500 isn't that hard in a 7.3 getting past that 550 to 600hp mark is harder the diesel shop near me has built a number of 500hp 7.3s and I have seen the trucks on the dyno so its no B.S. I think a stock bottom end and comp 910 valve springs will do it with the right injector and hpop. Check these guys out http://www.dieselshopct.com/ they are always willing to talk to people on the phone so give them a call. Also Brians truck shop and Beans Diesel do 7.3 stuff as well.

[Cloverleaffarm]

My E99 lived at 500 hp for a number of years. I hooked to every sled I could within 3 hours of me for the last 2 years I owned it and it dual roled as hauling livestock/equipment.

Injector/turbo setup is key. Along with Perfect live tuning

[Win slow]

These guys also could help http://www.shop.fullforcediesel.com/aboutus.sc

I have never built a 7.3 but i would probably just coat the pistons,balance the bottom end, valve springs, push rods, and keep your piston to wall clearance a little loose as well as ring gap. From what i understand ring gap is pretty important.

[ryanss22]

A stock forged bottom end will be fine for 500-550 hp.. a set of shimmed comp cams 910 springs, pushrods, an irate T4 turbo mount will open a world of options turbo wise.. going to 3" intake plenums will help airflow.. obviously add an Intercooler.. a set of 238/100 inj, an upgraded hpop and a good tuned chip with proper matched turbo and you'll have a fun truck that will run for hours.. I personally ran a 625hp 7.3 in a puller with 300/200 inj and a s475 turbo..

[ryanss22]

Full force diesel, swamps, beans diesel, dynoproven.com. all good sites and also try powerstrokearmy.com. lots and lots of info with everything your asking and more

[jlbayes]

getting one to make that power for short bursts is not the problem. keeping it alive for hours on end will be, especially with heui injection. oil coolers and increased capacity is going to be your friend.

[Jacob 76]

Im very familiar with 7.3s and have built quite a few, my question is just directed toward endurance engines specifically. Making power is easy, keeping it alive isn't.

[99 7.3]

Good tuning and watch the rev's! That is a must. I have a holed block and a box full of high dollar broken and bent 7.3 parts. Along with what "ryanss22" said on the building of it.

[ryanss22]

Adding an extra external oil cooler with an elec fan will help alot with oil temps.. running elec fans instead of the belt driven one will also help, it will reduce drag and be able to stay on all the time

Also you can look into a fuel cooler.. lots of gauges would be nice to keep an eye on everything. .

Keeping the fluids cool will be key to longevity.. keep us posted as to what you decide to do

[ryanss22]

Adding an extra external oil cooler with an elec fan will help alot with oil temps.. running elec fans instead of the belt driven one will also help, it will reduce drag and be able to stay on all the time

Also you can look into a fuel cooler.. lots of gauges would be nice to keep an eye on everything. .

Keeping the fluids cool will be key to longevity.. keep us posted as to what you decide to do

[Jacob 76]

That's more what I was looking for... Thanks. Have any of you totally deleted the oil cooler on a 7.3 and run a big external one?

[oldestof11]

Have you thought of running a separate cooling circuit for oil cooling? Get a 12v trans cooler and run a small radiator with a fan and pump in the bed. Put the fluid exchanger up under the hood. Shouldn't need a huge pump or radiator. You could probably use a big enough radiator to do trans and engine oil while keeping your regular radiator for engine cooling. I think this would be best as you have a lot of cubes to keep cool and I can see heat soak under the hood being a problem.

[chris lang]

Not to muddy up your thread, but if you want that goes fast in the desert put all your money into the suspension and drivetrain durability. I'd want a 2" coil over and 4" bypass on every corner for a truck that size. We've always had more fun in trucks with more suspension than motor.
But if your funds can get you both you'll have a sweet truck!

[Jacob 76]

Suspension and chassis setup are not a problem. It's a full backhalf trailing arm setup, radius arms in front. 24" of travel in back and 16" in front.

[Jacob 76]

Heres this pickup









I had a build thread when I did the original radius arm setup in front back when it was a tow truck but nobody really seemed interested so I stopped posting in it.

[DDually]

Thats so sweet!

[chris lang]

I'm jelly! I love seeing those old fords fly through the whoops.