99 Cummins won't start?? Even with starting fluid

Foster#17

Foster#17

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Apr 1, 2015
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I've got a 99 and can't get the thing to run. Bought it for 500 bucks because the guy had no knowledge for diesels. It had ran when he parked it and it sat for a few years then wouldn't run. I figured for sure it was the injection pump because it threw several codes for it. I tried to get it to fire on starting fluid but it wouldn't. Tried several times and nothing, not even a sputter. So then it had me thinking maybe the guy melted pistons in the thing. Took the head off and the pistons look like new!! Very little wear in the cylinders, good crosshatch, no scrapes, nothing!! Head gasket seemed good, no coolant in oil or anything. didnt appear to be any blowby coming out the oil cap or breather when cranking. So what's going on here? Just a bad can of ether or what?? I was just trying to get the thing to fire for sure before I go buying an injection pump!
 
Would've been better to do a compression test first. Could have stuck rings and making no compression


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stubz616 said:
Would've been better to do a compression test first. Could have stuck rings and making no compression


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I would've but unfortunitley i don't have one. I'll have to put it back together and get my hands on one
 
Does it sound "normal" when cranking? In other words does it sound like it has compression when you crank it or does it sound like it freewheels? If it sounds like it has compression and the either is actually getting into the cylinders then it should at least bang a couple of times. Maybe a rodent got into it and built a nest in the intake tube or something and it's blocking intake air. Spray the either directly into the intake elbow and see what happens.
 
jlbayes said:
The crank gear spinning would be more likely.
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What are the chances of a cam gear walking on the VP44 24v engines? Heard of it on the 12v engines, of course. Slim chance for the CR engine cam gears walking since they have spur gears. Add to that a sheared or partially sheared key on the crank and it could throw timing off plenty.
 
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Definitely that potential. I know of one walking from a dumby playing with his lockup switch while sitting idle.
 
Now would I be able to check that by setting the engine as if I'm doing a valve adjustment? Like set #1 or 6 tdcc and check that Everything is where it should be?
 
If the crank/cam timing was out much, pistons and valves would be crashing together, and if it was off just a little bit it would still run.

Compression/rings are most likely just fine if the cylinder walls look as good as described.

I'd say you have a fuel problem.
 
stubz616 said:
Would've been better to do a compression test first. Could have stuck rings and making no compression
Click to expand...

Foster#17 said:
I would've but unfortunitley i don't have one. I'll have to put it back together and get my hands on one
Click to expand...

If you have the head off, pour an equal amount of fuel in each cylinder and see how long it takes to leak down, a "real" leak-down test. Should be pretty obvious if you have a ring or piston issue. Also should be able to check valves and seats the same way.
 
Dealt with this on a real head stumper, took 4 days and 3 cheap lift pumps burning up before I convinced the guy to buy a quality lift pump. Wouldn't even give so much as a cough with ether either. Threw a DDRP on it and it fired right up after priming everything. Fuel system was just plumb bone dry, guess the ether alone wasn't enough to get it to fire.


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95cummins5.9 said:
I bet if you go get some John deere ether she will come to life.
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This.

Best dam ether on the planet.

My father had a 7.3idi ford that had the infamous air in fuel issues. Started extremely hard. It would not fire on ether. Ever. A windex bottle full of diesel fuel sprayed in the intake and it would fire right off. No idea what the science is behind that but theres some food for thought as well.
 
You really need to know HOW to use ether, too. Have you had the proper training?
 
BigPapa said:
You really need to know HOW to use ether, too. Have you had the proper training?
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Step 1: Spray ether until engine locks

Step 2: Impatiently try starter multiple times over the next 30 seconds.

Step 3: Spray slightly less ether than was used in step 1.
 
zfaylor said:
Step 1: Spray ether until engine locks



Step 2: Impatiently try starter multiple times over the next 30 seconds.



Step 3: Spray slightly less ether than was used in step 1.
Click to expand...



When it puffs white out of the plenum, you've found the sweet spot.


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