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Old 12-26-2018, 07:56 AM   #1
Meyers Farms
 
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WTB: 2012-2016 Ford F250/F350/F450

I am looking to buy a Ford F250/F350/F450

Must have options:
Diesel
4x4
4 door
Under $20k

I am looking for a newer work truck. I am not worried about color or options besides the ones listed above. I would prefer a dually but would consider a single wheel for the right price. Pickup bed or flatbed, doesn't matter.

I keep an eye on Craigslist and autotrader but really don't know where else to look. If you know of anything for sale or good places to look please let me know. I am willing to travel for the right truck. Thanks!
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2013 Ford F-450 6.7 Auto, 4x4, Crew Cab
 
Old 12-26-2018, 09:18 AM   #2
sootie

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Are you worried about mileage?
 
Old 12-26-2018, 09:56 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sootie View Post
Are you worried about mileage?
I’m willing to consider any mileage.
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2013 Ford F-450 6.7 Auto, 4x4, Crew Cab
 
Old 12-26-2018, 10:28 AM   #4
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Forgot to include on the original post:

Long Bed is a must have option
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2013 Ford F-450 6.7 Auto, 4x4, Crew Cab
 
Old 12-26-2018, 11:33 AM   #5
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Be aware that the 200k+ trucks for cheap almost all have had the CP4 go bad which ruins the supply tube, rail, connecting tubes, and injectors. I looked at quite a few for cheap when I was leaning towards a 6.7L Ford. They'll swap with a reman CP4 that'll get it running, but you'll be chasing issues from that abrasive chrome until you swap it all.
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Old 12-26-2018, 01:05 PM   #6
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pm'd you.
 
Old 12-26-2018, 01:53 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CorneliusRox View Post
Be aware that the 200k+ trucks for cheap almost all have had the CP4 go bad which ruins the supply tube, rail, connecting tubes, and injectors. I looked at quite a few for cheap when I was leaning towards a 6.7L Ford. They'll swap with a reman CP4 that'll get it running, but you'll be chasing issues from that abrasive chrome until you swap it all.
Thank you for the info, I'll definitely keep that in mind.

Anyone is free to chime in with suggestions or things to look out for.
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Old 12-26-2018, 02:48 PM   #8
sootie

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I don't buy that story. If there was still metal in the system, the new pump would be instantly trashed. Any problems that didn't happen immediately would happen before you got out of the shop. Besides, on an 11-14 truck, turbo failures are much more likely than hpfp problems. Most of the hpfp issues were directly related to what was put in the tank...
 
Old 12-26-2018, 02:53 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sootie View Post
I don't buy that story. If there was still metal in the system, the new pump would be instantly trashed. Any problems that didn't happen immediately would happen before you got out of the shop. Besides, on an 11-14 truck, turbo failures are much more likely than hpfp problems. Most of the hpfp issues were directly related to what was put in the tank...
This right here.
With clean fuel, and good filtration those fuel systems will last a long time.
 
Old 12-26-2018, 03:16 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sootie View Post
I don't buy that story. If there was still metal in the system, the new pump would be instantly trashed. Any problems that didn't happen immediately would happen before you got out of the shop..
Quote:
Originally Posted by bracker8040 View Post
This right here.
With clean fuel, and good filtration those fuel systems will last a long time.
Look up how the system plumbs.
With the Ford 6.7L CP4 system, the fuel goes through the fuel filter, then into the low pressure side of the CP4 (where the cams and 'tappets' are), then the high pressure side, then to everything else that deals with high pressure.

What happens is the hard chrome tappet face and cam lobe start flaking off. Those small chunks are very abrasive and will eat up injectors pretty well. The reason you need to swap everything is because that stuff somehow sticks around even when you clean everything and it's a lot cheaper than replacing the injectors a second time.

There is even an aftermarket solution to the issue where it routes the fuel coming out of the low pressure side of the CP4 through the fuel filter, and then to the high pressure side. This at least puts the the chrome through a 5 micron filter before entering everything else.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sootie View Post
Besides, on an 11-14 truck, turbo failures are much more likely than hpfp problems. Most of the hpfp issues were directly related to what was put in the tank...
The turbo issue goes without saying, but it's also a pretty cheap fix at this point. And there's a LOT of support for upgrading to an S300 charger or the newer factory VGT's.
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Last edited by CorneliusRox; 12-26-2018 at 03:18 PM.
 
Old 12-26-2018, 04:12 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackmega3500 View Post
C'rox.....

I don't think these 2 know you deal in the used auto parts world on a daily basis.

Oh well
Maybe he doesn’t know that both of us work on these trucks on a regular basis.
 
Old 12-26-2018, 05:51 PM   #12
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I'm well aware of how the system works....I work on these constantly! In fact, I keep kits on the shelf for when people want to upgrade the older trucks or repair any of them when they get contaminated.

Unfortunately, because I don't have a signature resume of trucks and constantly brag about what I do or don't know, I don't rate in blackmegas eyes....
 
Old 12-26-2018, 06:33 PM   #13
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This is good info, I have looked at these years a few times and wondered why everyone unloads them right around 200,000 miles.

May I suggest facebook market place, actually where alot of the stuff moved to. Craigs is a ghost town and all that's left now is the snake oil guys [dealers] and the town scrapper. There used to be a website that searched by state on craigslist, haven't used that in a while, but it has saved me time.

There was a low $20's F350 King ranch in cleveland not long ago. 2012 year I think.
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Old 12-27-2018, 07:14 AM   #14
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May I suggest facebook market place, actually where alot of the stuff moved to. Craigs is a ghost town and all that's left now is the snake oil guys [dealers] and the town scrapper.
I'll get my wife to search on Facebook, thanks for the tip.

To the other posters: thanks for all of the info and keep it coming!
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Old 12-27-2018, 09:11 AM   #15
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This right here.
With clean fuel, and good filtration those fuel systems will last a long time.
That's fine if you work on them all the time. And I agree, they would probably last forever if no contaminants ever entered the system. Unfortunately, most of the trucks at 200k have had plenty of contaminants passed through them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sootie View Post
I don't buy that story. If there was still metal in the system, the new pump would be instantly trashed. Any problems that didn't happen immediately would happen before you got out of the shop.
You said you're well aware of how the system works, but if there was metal downstream of the pump, a new pump would never see it or be effected by it. So... Just because you swap a pump and it'll start, doesn't mean the injectors aren't already leaking. That'll cause rough start-up, haze, and in severe cases where you keep running it you could crack an injector tip.

I'm not downplaying that it's a great engine/trans/chassis. I like the trucks, but this is a weak point.
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Old 12-27-2018, 09:48 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CorneliusRox View Post
That's fine if you work on them all the time. And I agree, they would probably last forever if no contaminants ever entered the system. Unfortunately, most of the trucks at 200k have had plenty of contaminants passed through them.







You said you're well aware of how the system works, but if there was metal downstream of the pump, a new pump would never see it or be effected by it. So... Just because you swap a pump and it'll start, doesn't mean the injectors aren't already leaking. That'll cause rough start-up, haze, and in severe cases where you keep running it you could crack an injector tip.



I'm not downplaying that it's a great engine/trans/chassis. I like the trucks, but this is a weak point.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CorneliusRox View Post
That's fine if you work on them all the time. And I agree, they would probably last forever if no contaminants ever entered the system. Unfortunately, most of the trucks at 200k have had plenty of contaminants passed through them.







You said you're well aware of how the system works, but if there was metal downstream of the pump, a new pump would never see it or be effected by it. So... Just because you swap a pump and it'll start, doesn't mean the injectors aren't already leaking. That'll cause rough start-up, haze, and in severe cases where you keep running it you could crack an injector tip.



I'm not downplaying that it's a great engine/trans/chassis. I like the trucks, but this is a weak point.
The filters don't do a good job of stopping the metal, even if you swap a new pump in, the metal usually finds its way all the way back to the new pump eventually.


Hence my comment about it not making it out of the shop before noticing further issues. Sure the truck might come in dead, swap the pump and it starts but usually you see the hazing, rough idle, random contribution codes, meaning the whole system needs to be changed.

I won't even touch one of the owner wants to half ass it
 
Old 12-27-2018, 09:50 AM   #17
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Not sure what the heck is up with Tapatalk but what I was saying was you notice the other issues before it leaves the shop.

I'm not actually arguing with you, just stating my experience lol
 
Old 12-27-2018, 10:08 AM   #18
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The filters don't do a good job of stopping the metal, even if you swap a new pump in, the metal usually finds its way all the way back to the new pump eventually.

Hence my comment about it not making it out of the shop before noticing further issues. Sure the truck might come in dead, swap the pump and it starts but usually you see the hazing, rough idle, random contribution codes, meaning the whole system needs to be changed.

I won't even touch one of the owner wants to half ass it

Not sure what the heck is up with Tapatalk but what I was saying was you notice the other issues before it leaves the shop.

I'm not actually arguing with you, just stating my experience lol
My bad, I was being a bit grumpy before my morning coffee. Sorry for that.

Thanks for the insight on it. Basically I just wanted to share with OP that he should be on the look out for it, and some hack shops might try and 'fix' an old truck for cheap just by tossing a pump in and making sure the truck is warmed up before you come to check it out.

I flew from MN to TX to look at some trucks that ended up with this exact issue and it was a huge waste of time and money.
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Old 02-23-2019, 01:40 PM   #19
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After a month and a half of looking I found a deal I couldn’t pass up. I now own a 2004 f350 6.0 diesel 4x4 crewcab longbed dually automatic. I’ll put my flame suit on and y’all can hit me with the 6.blow comments.
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Old 02-23-2019, 01:54 PM   #20
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After a month and a half of looking I found a deal I couldn’t pass up. I now own a 2004 f350 6.0 diesel 4x4 crewcab longbed dually automatic. I’ll put my flame suit on and y’all can hit me with the 6.blow comments.
If you fix a 6.0 right, and maintain it, they’re one of the best, IMO.
I’ve had/have a number of them.
I really like the 05 and newer.
How many miles on yours, any maintenance records, and is it stock/unmolested?
 
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