Re-torques

Way to re-torque

  • Hot, line torque

    Votes: 5 11.6%

  • Cold, line torque

    Votes: 7 16.3%

  • Hot, break away and retorque

    Votes: 11 25.6%

  • Cold, break away and retorque

    Votes: 16 37.2%

  • None

    Votes: 4 9.3%
  • Total voters
    43
White Knight

White Knight

New member
Joined
Aug 18, 2007
Messages
1,380
Curious to what everyone's opinion about re-torques were and why. :pop:
Or if you feel they are even necessary with anything other than fire-rings.

Assuming standard studs if it matters.
By line torque I mean you just pull the wrench till it clicks or beeps without loosening the nut first. A break away and re-torque would include loosening the nut before bringing it back up to torque.
 
Cold I do 3, 1st 2 I break each nut loose and check stud depth clean washer and nut good apply lots of lube to the top and bottom of washer crank down to 145ft-lbs in 4 steps then check them all once u have them drew down then the last one I just make sure no of them move......
Brandon
 
Thanks Brandon, I appreciate the detail. :thankyou2:

So the majority believes in cold torques, good info.
 
I always retorque hot and have had great success. Thats just lonely old me.
 
When I was doing HG retorques I;

Let truck come up to operating temp while idling after initial install.

Let it cool down for a few hours with a few fans blowing on it to get it as cold as possible.

Just "line" retorqued them in 5lb increments in the Cummins torquing sequence.

Drove a week at low boost and then did another retorque the same as before.

And was then done! I did another one about a month later when I ran my valves and swapped injectors and none had any change in torque.
 
Muddin_dude06 said:
When I was doing HG retorques I;

Let truck come up to operating temp while idling after initial install.

Let it cool down for a few hours with a few fans blowing on it to get it as cold as possible.

Just "line" retorqued them in 5lb increments in the Cummins torquing sequence.

Drove a week at low boost and then did another retorque the same as before.

And was then done! I did another one about a month later when I ran my valves and swapped injectors and none had any change in torque.
Click to expand...

thats the way we have always done it
 
I line torque the ARPs in 3 increments up to max with assembly lube while cold, then use the block heater to simulate operating temps for a 5-cycle break torque.
 
XLR8R said:
I line torque the ARPs in 3 increments up to max with assembly lube while cold, then use the block heater to simulate operating temps for a 5-cycle break torque.
Click to expand...



I do simular, 2 block heaters to speed it up...Its amazing how the gasket/fastners relax after a few heat cycles, this one droped 10 ft/lbs after a couple of cycles.


dodgeagain017.jpg

dodgeagain019.jpg
 
Joesixpack said:
I do simular, 2 block heaters to speed it up...Its amazing how the gasket/fastners relax after a few heat cycles, this one droped 10 ft/lbs after a couple of cycles.
Click to expand...

That's a great idea Joe!

I like warm retorques, but I think it's mostly due to the heat cycles.
 
Brett at TNT did my head with around .009" protrusion and a stock head gasket. Did the garmon method with bran new stock head bolts. No retorques, multiple 50psi runs. No problem so far but knocking on wood! Did give it about 5 heat cycles though before being hard on it.
 
RedPuller said:
I'm confused on this statement.....so you do a "line" torque in the Cummins torquing sequence?

Joe
Click to expand...

I believe he was referring to my definition of line torque, which isn't line torquing but I couldn't think of a name for it :bang

NickTF said:
Brett at TNT did my head with around .009" protrusion and a stock head gasket. Did the garmon method with bran new stock head bolts. No retorques, multiple 50psi runs. No problem so far but knocking on wood! Did give it about 5 heat cycles though before being hard on it.
Click to expand...

What is the "Garmon Method"?


Good info so far, keep it coming. Thanks to all who have replied.
 
I believe you essentially take all the bolts up to 90ft-lbs just like you would do following the stock procedure. After that you step the bolts up in 5ft-lb increments following the stock pattern up to the final torque you desire. In my case one set got 130 and the others got 140 (can't remember if the long rocker/head bolt is the one with 140 or the shorter non rocker head bolts are at 140). Brett would know (dzlfarmboy).
 
You would want the shorter studs at a lower lb ft mark than the long ones. My long studs are at 135 and the short ones down by the exhaust manifold are at 130.
 
With the MLS on a CR. Would studs with just one torque sequence up to say 150# be enough? I hear if you take it slow, no retorque is necessary with a stock MLS. The motor will be garage temperature (70 degrees).

Any truth to this?
 
do you think there is an advantage to putting copper spray on a good mls gasket? would I want to torque thing down a bit more with this coating?
 
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