2wd drag racing suspension setup

cosmo22nov

cosmo22nov

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Jun 11, 2007
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so I am looking for a goo setup for drag racing/ daily driving. I want to get as much traction as I possibly can and still be streetable. and I would not mind lowering the truck. and what should I do with the front suspension?

thanks in advanced,
tanner
 
Either 4-link suspension or remove leaf springs & add cal-tracs.
 
Loose bump in the back tight rebound in the front. A 4-link with coil-overs would best in the rear, if not I'd make some ladder bars. Moroso has a division called competition engineering there is alot of suspension set up techniques in there that will be very helpful..
 
cosmo22nov said:
so I am looking for a goo setup for drag racing/ daily driving. I want to get as much traction as I possibly can and still be streetable. and I would not mind lowering the truck. and what should I do with the front suspension?

thanks in advanced,
tanner
Click to expand...

Can you transfer some weight to the back? Do you still plan on towing anything with this truck?
 
There are a muiltitude of way to set it up and that all depends on you goals and budget. Backhalf 4 link, back half ladderbar, cut down stock frame rails for both, spring perchs reversed using leaf springs and caltracs or stock suspension using caltracs.

I run stock leaf springs with caltracs and rancho 9000's on the back, has to be the simplist and most effective setup I've seen.

Jim
 
Mine is stock rear, except for lengthend rear shackles (drops the rear about 1.5'') & a set of home made removable ladder bars. I cant realy do any cool stuf like a 1/2 ton spring conversion, or 90/10 shocks, as I still tow fairly heavy with it sometimes. I have managed a 1.59 60' with my settup on an excellent track, but my normal 60's are 1.7ish. Something you will run into, if you drop the rear much, is driveline rumble. You'll have to mod your carrier bearing bracket to adjust the driveline angle.
 
turbomatt1 said:
Mine is stock rear, except for lengthend rear shackles (drops the rear about 1.5'') & a set of home made removable ladder bars. I cant realy do any cool stuf like a 1/2 ton spring conversion, or 90/10 shocks, as I still tow fairly heavy with it sometimes. I have managed a 1.59 60' with my settup on an excellent track, but my normal 60's are 1.7ish. Something you will run into, if you drop the rear much, is driveline rumble. You'll have to mod your carrier bearing bracket to adjust the driveline angle.
Click to expand...
will the springs wrap up or anything with the lowering shackles and traction bars?
 
It would really depend how you made your traction bars. Usually the leafs act as your top link and the traction bar is put on the bottom. Eventually the leafs do start to bend, but it takes a long time and a good bit of abuse if your running a full leaf pack. Or you can make the traction bars more of a torque arm style with some triangulation top and bottom and it will act as an anti-wrap bar.
 
I did a back-half and 4-link last summer. Here's a pic from near completion

2730920220_71045dce20_b.jpg



It looks good, but I havent hit the track yet and my 4-link calculator "calculations" are probably nothing to write home about. I have 6" of total suspension travel, 2.5" bump and 3.5" droop.


P.S. - I forgot to mention it rides like a dream with some 150# springs :D
 
Hurley said:
I did a back-half and 4-link last summer. Here's a pic from near completion

2730920220_71045dce20_b.jpg



It looks good, but I havent hit the track yet and my 4-link calculator "calculations" are probably nothing to write home about. I have 6" of total suspension travel, 2.5" bump and 3.5" droop.


P.S. - I forgot to mention it rides like a dream with some 150# springs :D
Click to expand...
Hurley, I'm looking at your coilover placement along with the lower link in your setup- It looks like you didn't gain too much clearance for wider skins over the stock frame?:poke:
 
indeed, RD. My project intentions were for more or less a 96% street truck, and i cant see myself needing a huge tire in the foreseeable future. My intent with the wide lower arm and coil placement was to maximize axle control and body roll under most any road/driving conditions that i could encounter, with the lowest necessary spring rate.

I suppose i wanted to show my setup from more of a conceptual viewpoint; my hardware and links are beefy - 2.00"x3/16" links, 1/4" boxed mounts on the axle with a Blue Torch Fab front upper link mount cut from 1/2" plate, and 9/16" fasteners all around.


on an aside (thread hijack): my current tire/wheel setup - 285/50-20's, 20x9 with 5mm offset, 5.25" BS

3121396980_a5a226b81a.jpg
 
well i like to back half it and 4 link it. so whats usually a ball park estimate for how much that costs? and were should i go to get it done?
 
I've got about +/- $4000 in parts, metal, short bed, and a few random tools (Williams Low Buck Tubing Notcher, for the win!)....but the labor was free. Mine was upwards of 200 hours, at a medium pace.
 
so did you do it yourself? and if you dont mind me askin how much did you pay for the shortbed?
 
well im trying to get an idea of a price without the bed, i already have someone that will trade me truck beds, their short bed for my long bed
 
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