Gentlemen, I need some 12 valve wisdom

I'm not up on the P-pump stuff much but I will say that the shutdown solenoids can become weak overtime and not reach full travel, usually 100% open. I could be thinking backwards though. I don't recall if the plunger pulls in/up for start and out/down for shutdown or vice versa. Sometimes the rubber boot tears and gets caught up in the mechanism. I can only speak from one that I replaced years ago. IIRC, it had a no-start issue. In that instance, the boot had torn and come apart wrapped itself around the spring inside of it. Thus, limiting plunger travel.

This is just a random picture to show the spring (and the shaft the woodruff key is located on).

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It may not even be the issue you're facing but it can't hurt to check it and eliminate it as a possibility. Good luck!
 
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If you did the springs and removed that shutoff lever I will bet you are missing that key. I'd almost bet $100
 

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70440charger said:
@ Cornelius - I just visited Seth's facebook page. It looks legit. I wish I had known about them two weeks ago. Their Max/ Balance package is only $260 and I paid $325. I am sure they would have done a better job since they are geared towards the performance market. I am going to save up some more freaking pennies :( and send it in but It is going to take a while.
I am going to take off my afc here in a little bit and see if that key is where it should be. I have looked at it and it looks ok but with out seeing where the lever is inside I can't be 100% sure of the relationship.
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You must have installed your gov springs from the top then? That way is a pain in the ass! Most install from the gov spring port on the side of the pump. The shaft I was talking about is on the outside of the pump facing your ABS junk.

Just like the picture above.

This is the shaft and the woodruff key should look like a half moon and it aligns the bracket that your solenoid attaches to. Make sure it's there, or at least that the bracket is in the correct orientation before tightening the pinch bolt. Then make sure that your pull string setup is pulling it up enough to fully open it.
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Also, I am sure your pump guy did a fine job and balanced it just as well as anyone else with a bosch machine, but I am sure you left a lot of fuel on the table. Call or message Seth and I'm sure he'll tell you what he can do and for how much. He's on here too, but I think he changed his username recently and I don't know it off the top of my head. He's also in the vendor section.
 
@ Jimbo - Thanks for the Picture! I was pretty sure that was the right spot but Now I know for sure I will be looking at the right spot! And Thanks Cornelius for taking the time to draw it out like that! Hopefully that helps more guys then just me!
@ Cornelius - I wanted to cry when I saw Seth's Prices. I am so tired of getting raked over the coals on diesel prices. I will be sending a lot of local guys his way and I will be calling them when they open up today. It sounds like it would be worth my while to take the pump back off and ship it to him just to get the extra fuel that was left on the table!
I have done the spring both ways. I installed the gsk from the side with the pump off the first time. However, I had to mount the computer for the truck right beside that lower port and it make getting at the GSK almost impossible from the side. I tried it once and gave up. Going through the top really isn't so bad once you make a tool for the gsk nut and learn how to talk to it!
I didn't get to test much yesterday cause the truck spent most of its time working. I am not a huge fan of working on hot motors :) Especially now that the days are getting warm here in middle GA.
 
I have to say that I haven't ever dealt with Seth. I just hear good things on here! And it's a one man show.

I'm got to believe he's got a drawer full of woodruff keys though.
 
I read your whole post and agree you have a tune problem with the total package of parts not working together. If you take the pump off and send it to Seth your just going to have more down time and more top of line parts not working together. I know what you mean when you talk about the your family and your hobby. Sometimes you got to know when to go to a Pro. Ya, there definitely is a certain amount of satisfaction in doing the whole job yourself , but there is no shame in not being able to tune the truck just right.
Since your truck is running a driving I would take it to Specialist. If I was in GA I would take it to Garmon's. I'm not affiliated with this shop so I not tryn to steer you to these guys, but if you have been on CompD for long you see other CompD members singing there praises. I'm in NJ and when it comes to tunning the truck we go down to TRE in VA. I bet that its probably something real simple that’s holding you back. These specialty shops are going to have all the little bs springs and washers your going to need right there, in stead of ordering this and that and hoping whatever you ordered is going to fix the problem. Plus your with your family instead of in the garage; and whatever you do hope that hobby and the family don't become a point of contention for you.
 
tornado112 said:
I read your whole post and agree you have a tune problem with the total package of parts not working together. If you take the pump off and send it to Seth your just going to have more down time and more top of line parts not working together. I know what you mean when you talk about the your family and your hobby. Sometimes you got to know when to go to a Pro. Ya, there definitely is a certain amount of satisfaction in doing the whole job yourself , but there is no shame in not being able to tune the truck just right.
Since your truck is running a driving I would take it to Specialist. If I was in GA I would take it to Garmon's. I'm not affiliated with this shop so I not tryn to steer you to these guys, but if you have been on CompD for long you see other CompD members singing there praises. I'm in NJ and when it comes to tunning the truck we go down to TRE in VA. I bet that its probably something real simple that’s holding you back. These specialty shops are going to have all the little bs springs and washers your going to need right there, in stead of ordering this and that and hoping whatever you ordered is going to fix the problem. Plus your with your family instead of in the garage; and whatever you do hope that hobby and the family don't become a point of contention for you.
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I think we are two different types of people ;-)

Bouncing idea's off people is one of the (if not the) best part(s) of a good forum.
 
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Some take a lot of pride in tuning their own crap. Why pay crazy prices, travel, wait. It's a ****ing 12 valve not a transmission.
 
95cummins5.9 said:
Some take a lot of pride in tuning their own crap. Why pay crazy prices, travel, wait. It's a ****ing 12 valve not a transmission.
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Those aren't as difficult as people make them out to be either. Everything mechanical comes down to patience and thinking it through but not overthinking it. More times than not when my trucks are acting up it is because I overlooked the little things. I forget to go back to basics wrenching too often and get in a hurry.

For example: my ppump 24v got a new pump and afterwards it was running like crap and chugging. I had every bad thought in my head. I had come to the conclusion the guy sold me a crap pump, my injectors were junk, timing was off and all of that. I forgot to crack the lines and find what cylinder was mis firing.I had forgotten I put my dvs into the new pump as well. I left a dam dv washer in #6 and it was crooked causing it to run like chit.

Want to eliminate the shutdown lever worry? Check for the woodruff. If it is there and in the correct location remove the cable or shutdown solenoid all together and push the arm to the run position. See if it runs better. Shut it down with the arm and reassemble the shutdown device of choice.
 
@ tornado - Thank you for your input and I know exactly what you are saying. It is most likely something super stupid that I have overlooked 100 times! There could be a time when I hit the end all, be all of walls but I just don't feel like saying die yet. I have heard great things about Garmins but If I take it there they are going to work their magic, take my $,$$$, my truck will magically run but I won't know how to fix it the next time I screw it up and those shops don't generally give up secrets easily. So, if the friendly people of Comp D will still help me, I want to figure out how to whoop this truck. But I certainly am exactly where you described; I have a bunch of expensive parts that aren't working together!

@ Cornelius - You are right about bouncing ideas off people. That is why I came here to ask for help!

@ 95Cummins - I am very proud to have built this whole engine. I can name each and every thing that has been done to it and could tare it all back apart with out any worries. Well, Except for how much I hated plasti-gauging everything ! :(

Here is what I have managed to do:
1. I talked to Seth about my pump and if he would be willing to look it over.
2. Took off the GSK spring bases and trimmed .020" (for anyone that is wondering and also has the Pacbrake 4k gsks, I used a belt sander flipped upside down with a 80 grit belt and a micrometer. It took time and some patience but it worked well. I was able to get all side within +- .002")
Sadly- there was slight change in idle and I clearly din't get them tight enough because it didn't really want to go over 3500 rpms

Here are my next steps: (Tell me if you have other Ideas...)
Tomorrow I am going to:
1. Check for boost leaks
2. Take out the AFC Foot and the fuel plate per Smokem's direction to verify that it is not an afc/ plate issue.
3. Re- check waste gate and the waste gate pucks for sealing issues.
4. Swapping out my p-pump for my brothers 180hp p pump to check if it runs differently and sending my pump up to Seth for maxing out and to check function of the governor assembly.

Question:
I know my cam gear is lined up with the correct marks on the crank because I pulled the front cover to check it out and I recently check my valve lash. I degreed the Cam when I installed it but I would like to know how much difference I could see, performance wise, if it was at a 98.5* instead of 99*?
 
I meant 5. on his list, you seen how crappy they made my truck run and smoke.

Seemed to pick up about 3.5-4mpg better switching from DAP injectors back to stock 215's
 
Ok guys. This morning I pressure tested the boots and intercooler. No real surprise there. Some small leaks but nothing earth shaking. I know that all leaks matter but there was no real difference after we fixed them. So we moved on to plan b. We swapped over to my brother freshly rebuilt (and benched) pump today. It seems to move through the low rpm faster but the mid to top is still not great. I will say that his pump pulled much harder than mine did so my pump will be going to Seth soon to get worked over. I feel that today was a slight victory because we determined that my pump was defiantly hurting the low rpm power and responsiveness. We also checked out the waste gate and sett it to open a little higher.

But, even after saying that it is running better, I have to tell you all that it is still not even chirping the tires a little. Nothing. not in 2nd, 3rd, 4th... The full set of my bald testing tire are on it so, Fellow Dually owners, CAN YOU SLIP YOUR TIRES? Because I cannot. At About how many HP do duallys start to have traction issue on dry pavement, at 500ft above sea level, with bald tires, on a 75 degree day?

Now that the truck is not so sluggish down low, I am thinking that it really might be a good time to get a nice set of DV for this pump to see if it changes up top.

With this new pump (my brother's), it really feels like it would take off if it just had more fuel through the mid and top range. I could only manage like 35 psi in 3rd before I had to shift and lost it all.

The only things we haven't swapped out yet is the dv and we are still using the super b special. I am half tempted to just slap the compounds on there and see if that changes anything.
 
Won't know until you find out. My first post... try another charger!! 71mm turbine sucks stripper titti€ on a 12 valve.
 
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