Putting 12v rods in a CR

DISTURBED

DISTURBED

YEA WE RIDE THE SHORT BUS
Joined
Nov 22, 2007
Messages
6,417
Which way did you guys orient the rods? Like the stock CR or like the Stock 12/24v are? CR the rod bolts come in from the exhaust side and the 12/24v they come in from the intake side. I didn't try putting the the 12v rods in the CR block like they would be in a 12v block. Just curious what others have done or if it matters
 
I am doing the same thing with my 6.7 and from what I've read the factory rod orientation didnt matter in the common rail blocks although the factory service manual says the rods go in different ways 5.9 vs 6.7. But in the 12v/VP blocks there was a clearance issue. I'd say put one in the way the rods you pulled out were orientated and spin it over by hand. If it clears run it. And be sure to use the 12v style connecting rod bearings.

INSTALLATION:
1. Lubricate the cylinder bores with clean engine oil.
2. Generously lubricate the rings and piston skirts
with clean engine oil.
3. Orientate the rings on the piston (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/PISTON RINGS - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
4. Compress the rings using a piston ring compressor
tool (1). If using a strap-type ring compressor,
make sure the inside end of the strap does not
hook on a ring gap and break the ring.
5. Bar the crankshaft so the rod journal for the piston
to be installed is at BDC (Bottom Dead Center).
6. Make sure the front of the piston is oriented properly
according to the marking on the top of the piston
and the connecting rod is oriented properly.
7. Position the piston and rod assembly into the cylinder bore with the front of the piston oriented properly according
to the stamping in the top of the piston. Use care when you install the piston and connecting rod so the
cylinder bore is not damaged. The long side of the connecting rod must be installed on the intake side of the
engine.
8. Push the piston into the bore until the top of the piston is approximately 50 mm (2 inch) below the top of the
block. Carefully pull the connecting rod onto the crankshaft journal.
9. Use clean engine oil to lubricate the threads and under the heads of the connecting rod bolts.
10. For fractured/split type connecting rods, the long end of the rod must be installed towards the intake side of
the engine.

a. The connecting rod split/face must face toward the same side as the piston notch feature on the skirt. The
split face will face toward the exhaust side of the engine if properly installed.
11. Install the rod cap and bolts to the connecting rod. Tighten the connecting rod bolts evenly in 3 steps.
 
I would be very cautious of putting anything but billet rods in a 6.7CR application. I ran them in a 6.7PPump application on a big single(s400 with big turbine). I didn't have any issues, but was nervous alot. LOL
 
I'm going to be running a 5.9 crank with polished and shot peened 12v rods in a 6.7 block.
 
Decking the block, 6.7 industrial pistons, and my 06 5.9 head. I will also be running a s400 single charger.
 
Wish I'd paid attention to that on the 3 or 4 early 2003 engines I have had with the early rods. :(

Mark.
 
If they are put in wrong in a 12V they will hit the block. There may or may not be more room in a 6.7 block. I would put them in the same way they go in a 12V. I believe the way the cap parting lines are engineered, the cap could try to shift away from the "hook" if it's turned the wrong direction, causing bearing wear.
 
Mine is a 5.9 CR. It swings the rod fine but I'm going to see how close the rod cap is to the block
 
9724VF350 said:
If they are put in wrong in a 12V they will hit the block. There may or may not be more room in a 6.7 block. I would put them in the same way they go in a 12V. I believe the way the cap parting lines are engineered, the cap could try to shift away from the "hook" if it's turned the wrong direction, causing bearing wear.
Click to expand...

And that's my concern
 
Then why would they put common rail rods in opposite of what a 12 or 24 valve is if there's a chance for it to be close to the clamping point and break a rod?
 
DISTURBED said:
Then why would they put common rail rods in opposite of what a 12 or 24 valve is if there's a chance for it to be close to the clamping point and break a rod?
Click to expand...


I'm not sure if I'm reading this question right, but the reason the can go in either way with the fractured cap design the cap can't "slide" off one side of the rod the way they can on a 12V rod.
 
9724VF350 said:
I'm not sure if I'm reading this question right, but the reason the can go in either way with the fractured cap design the cap can't "slide" off one side of the rod the way they can on a 12V rod.
Click to expand...

I was more talking about moving the rod journals closer to the end of the bearing on the compression stroke. Where the 2 bearings come together vs the rod cap moving. I talked to another builder earlier and they swap all rods that are in common rails to run like 12v even if they are using the CR rods. So I will be tearing this one back apart and swapping the rods around. Hopefully this thread will help someone else from having to do so.
 
Last edited:
In layman's terms, does this put the rod cap toward or away from the camshaft?



Something smart goes here
 
biggy238 said:
In layman's terms, does this put the rod cap toward or away from the camshaft?



Something smart goes here
Click to expand...

You want it towards the camshaft in all of them. I'm still confused why in the oem they put the CR away from the camshaft.
 
Every engine we build we install the rods (12v/CR/Billet) long side away from the cam, or open face to the cam. This way there is never a clearance issue. Most aftermarket rod bolts installed in factory rods will contact the block oriented the other direction, also the same with all billet rods.
 
SledPuller21 said:
Every engine we build we install the rods (12v/CR/Billet) long side away from the cam, or open face to the cam. This way there is never a clearance issue. Most aftermarket rod bolts installed in factory rods will contact the block oriented the other direction, also the same with all billet rods.
Click to expand...
Agreed
 
Hello

Glad i found this thread. I busted the stock crank in my 5.9 common rail and im replacing with 12valve crank and rods. Planning to installing soon and would have put in same way as cracked cap rods.
Should i really be worried about peen and polishing these rods? Might never be over 500hp in this truck.
 
Last edited:
Follow the CR5.9 orientation. I had a shop install the 12v rods long end on the exhaust side like the 12v would be and the engine had a Hamilton cam in it. It hit the cam lobes and destroyed the cam.$.02
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top