F250/Cummins Swap

I would go a different route but I got this starter warrantied out..... And it looks like it's a short time. I put the positive cable/trigger wire combo back in the truck, checked the battery, the connections. Hit the trigger wire with 12V, arced with no response from the starter. I got a broom stick and beat the shit out of the cap over the contactor and the POS cranked. Starter crank d over ONE TIME and the contacts shit the bed.

I drove it to see if the battery was doing something stupid after heat soak. Got back the the house. It cranked 25 times total without fail. I don't know what that shit was about.
I have made myself upset that they gave me a reman starter to warranty out a new starter, but that's typical in the parts world and free is free. I just don't get how the new starter did the same thing as the one I took off after cranking once.

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This is the reason why I try and get this old guy local to rebuild starters and alternators when time allows. They always last longer from him than a parts store. Not many old heads around doing that stuff anymore.
 
This is the reason why I try and get this old guy local to rebuild starters and alternators when time allows. They always last longer from him than a parts store. Not many old heads around doing that stuff anymore.
I could rebuild them if I had the parts resources. I've built a few in the past. Ultimately it isn't worth it. R&I on this starter is under 20 minutes. Shuck it and throw an new one in.
I agree on the quality of an old hand but it isn't cost effective any longer from a time perspective.

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Posting about the VW. Warning: loosely connected thoughts.

I opened up my VW because the mileage has dropped from 38mpg to 31mpg.
To preface: I could hear a bad cam lobe at the start of 2022 and I flat out ignored it because I knew what I was hearing because of the previous Cam failure.
I replaced the cam in 2012 with what was supposed to be the late production OEM cam and DLC coated tappets. That was supposed to fix the cam issue.
There is some voodoo assed oil spec from VW that is supposed to save the cam, but I absolutely do not agree with that, there was never evidence to support it, only VW saying if you didn't use their spec lube, that there was no warranty on the cam. This cam has had Mobil 5w40 synthetic it's entire life. It pretty much takes a defective part to have a wear related failure running that oil.
Also, I assume I damaged the camshaft position tone wheel during the last R&I, because it immediately had a camshaft position implausible code that wasn't repaired by a new sensor or changes to the wiring. I know I bent at least one of the choppers when I was trying to get the hub off the cam, but I painstakingly tried to get the teeth back to uniform. It didn't matter, still has the code (which can't be seen on odb2)

I pulled the intake manifold off about half an hour ago and it's coked to hell and back. (Known issue with these engines). I ran the car for a long time with the crank case ventilation unhooked from the intake system because I knew that was a known issue. I put it back about 15 thousand miles ago because of the mess the open CCV was making under the hood, and I've been noticing oil pushing from the CAC tubes for a while now.

The big reason I went after the intake system is because the car has been doing this shit where it fuels full fuel with no boost, the engine is pulling in a sort of stall state because the turbo won't light, like the wastegate is open. I had been driving around it because you could hit the clutch, rev and dump it and it would pull out of the stall and go on.
It also has had an issue with the MAF that I thought was a ground several years ago, but it turns out it was actually the socket in the fuse panel causing the issue. I had run a hot wire directly to the MAF back in August, but that promptly led to the sensor failing because it couldn't cool when the engine shut off. The issue with the stall was actually worse with the MAF reading flow. Subsequently, I found that the molded vacuum hose between the pump and brake booster was split, meaning the vac operated controls (including the waste gate) haven't been able to function properly.

The shit to fix the Intake was just under $500. To buy a colt cam (I think the OEM is shit, I sent an email to find out if the current part is the same part I bought last time)
Is $699 for just the cam, plus about $425 for the install kit, and a tuner is $650.

I'm really torn at this point. Essentially, this car has now done every shitty thing that I read about them doing on forums. My son has been driving the car for the last month because he blew the engine in his jeep. Now I'm down another vehicle, daily driving the ford isn't exactly cheap, and it's giving me shit to.

I'm struggling with the thought of throwing $2500 at a car that books for less than $1000. I'm sure it would be hell on wheels to drive when I'm done, but I could buy another beater for that. There's always the thought that I know what I've got with the VW.

Just venting I guess. The fuel economy potential is enticing but $2500 is a hell of a lot of fuel, or another vehicle in its entirety.

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In my opinion, I personally feel better knowing I'm driving a vehicle I've built or have practically rebuilt. Good state of mind knowing exactly what was done, that it was done right and how I would want it. Of course I've never bought a car with the intention of selling it so I don't ever think about what it's worth
 
In my opinion, I personally feel better knowing I'm driving a vehicle I've built or have practically rebuilt. Good state of mind knowing exactly what was done, that it was done right and how I would want it. Of course I've never bought a car with the intention of selling it so I don't ever think about what it's worth
I was mostly ranting. I will fix it. I've just been trained to do cost benefit analysis on everything. The book value is well below the investment to repair.
Cam lobe and leaking WG shaft.
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And it gets better, after reading, the issue with the lack of boost at launch is a failed VNT.

I may just sideline this project until taxes come back and make it stupid if I'm going to the effort of a cam, turbo and tune anyway. Already has a VR6 clutch so nothing to hurt there.

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Mad at it. Small progress though. I got the intake manifold 95% clean. Throttle valve is mostly clean. I bought a blanking kit that didn't remove the EGR valve. I wanted it gone though, so I went and got a freeze plug that was the correct diameter for the bore. Slapped a little 620 or 609 on it and shoved it in the hole. Slapped it and screamed "That's not going anywhere."
Maybe some day I will put it back together.
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I'm turning in to Gary. I've been having my 4 channel amplifier shut down sporadically for about two months, always after driving a while, and always only while moving. I checked all the normal stuff and decided it was going to have to break and stay broken. Yesterday, it did that, and it took my mono amplifier with it. I got to the house and messed with it. Hit it with a DMM and found 16.3V. Total wtf moment because the truck and CTS are showing 14.8 like it has forever. This morning on the way to work, I can hear a dog whistle coming from the audio. 15-17khz. I got pissed and started checking voltages under the hood when I got to work. The Alternator feeds a mega fuse on the passenger side battery box. That has a cable that runs to the positive terminal of the battery and the bridge cable to the DS battery. I hit both sides of the fuse, 16V, hit the post terminal on the battery and it's at 14.8. The small jump from the mega to rest of the system is resistive. I reached down to wiggle it and burn my finger tip off.
I run inside and get a socket and ratchet to pull the cable. It was tight. I brought it in and buffed the surfaces on the cable ends and mega fuse even though they weren't really corroded. It had been hot enough that the glue from the heat shrink has weeped out onto the terminal.
I put it back in, and now it's at 15.5V when the rest is at 14.8V. I'm going to cut the heat shrink off when I get home and figure out just WTF is resistive in that cable.
Mega pissed that the only outward sign of the issue is that it killed my amps.
There's a video on my Instagram of me checking the voltages.
I will have to draw a schematic for it to make sense to others why the amp and alt can be at a controls higher voltage than the rest of the truck.

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Sectioned the coolant hose and installed on the VW. Colon cleanse for colonoscopy starts today, not sure how much more I'll be able to get done today ?
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So you’re cleaning out all your pipes! Vehicles and personal.
Fo sho. Go in at 10am.
I got to the point that I had to cut the EGR cooler to get it out and had to stop. Car looks like it exploded. Bad thing is that I didn't take pictures of what I removed. It may never recover.

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I had a belt squeak that came back after a new belt. My gear cover was leaking oil onto the belt. The new belt and all grooved pulleys were full of oil/grease. After I cleaned them all out and cleaned the belt good, no more squeak.

To troubleshoot, spray brake clean on the grooved side of the belt while running. If it stops squeaking, it’s the belt. If not, it’s a bearing.
 
To troubleshoot, spray brake clean on the grooved side of the belt while running. If it stops squeaking, it’s the belt. If not, it’s a bearing.


...and wear goggles, that brake cleaner burns like hell in your eyes. I bet it's the tensioner.
 
every single part on the front of the engine is new...water pump..power steering...tensioner..idler...fan clutch....
ill post the vid on my crybaby page
 
...and wear goggles, that brake cleaner burns like hell in your eyes. I bet it's the tensioner.
But you won't give a fuck about that squeak any more. Win win

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Built the one on the right to replace the one on the left. 1.5V drop end to end on the sus cable. Too cold for me to fuck with finding out why, but think the crimp is bad on the end that got hot.

Popped the new one in, and 14.8V at every point I checked in the system.

Sometimes I wonder what a shop would charge to TS that kind of shit.

Customer: My amps are shutting off repeatedly.
Shop: When was your last oil change and tire rotation?
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To add Insult to injury, I have a coolant leak from the crossover tube the bridges the back of the engine, over the top of the coolant bypass that needs a new tstat.
I guess I'm going to have to figure out how to pull the cab sooner than later. Not really feeling that bottle jack life though.

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