12mm arp head studs

R

randyswelding

New member
just got em and my new motor just got a question do i really have to get the machine shop to lower the valve tower at the head bolt height?i hope not cause i aint got no mo money its all goin together tomarrow and goin in the truck friday hopefully any info thanked before i get too far along
 
you dont need to. just install them about 1 turn out from bottomed out in the block or so the stud ends up flush with the nut when torqued. You will have to grind out the inside of the valve covers for clearence as the studs/nut will make contact. I have done several sets this way with no problems.
 
and there's a way easier way than that as well, but no u do NOT have to machine your towers if your doing that it's a waste of money
 
Machining the towers has the be the dumbest thing I have ever heard of, just buy Haisley's and be done with it.........Randy you have my number.

Jim
 
Jim Fulmer said:
Machining the towers has the be the dumbest thing I have ever heard of, just buy Haisley's and be done with it.........Randy you have my number.

Jim
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I would like to know how you think these stud will work over ARP .
The problem ,is that a nut , and washer is thicker then the head of a bolt . If your going to use a thinner nut , which its not , or a thinner washer , or go without a washer , then you are not getting the full benefit of going to studs.


There is a reason why 100% of all NASCAR teams use ARP , 100% or all Top Fuel , Pro Stock, and Comp Teams use ARP its Quality, and engineering

So are these other studs have a thinner nut , thinner washer , or no washer
 
COMP....I just got my 625's and Thanks again!!

On my 05, What (if any) area am I going to have to grind off of my VC to get these studs to work??
 
Ok then do I use the washer and will backing out the stud out hurt any thing and machining is what I read in the instruction manual and that's why I don't like readin and jim I'm workin nights right now so ill try to call ya later tonight around 8:30
 
randyswelding said:
Ok then do I use the washer and will backing out the stud out hurt any thing and machining is what I read in the instruction manual and that's why I don't like readin and jim I'm workin nights right now so ill try to call ya later tonight around 8:30
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You need to use the washer, this is important in achieving the proper clamping load .. There are so many ways to do this wrong , if you don’t use a washer , or lube the threads and both sides of the washer,.

Now machining down the pedestal, is the best way , the next best way is to grind out the underside of the valve cover .
The nut is what is hitting , not the stud , so if a Nut and a washer is taller then a bolt head you have only one option
 
randyswelding said:
Ok then do I use the washer and will backing out the stud out hurt any thing and machining is what , I read in the instruction manual and that's why I don't like readin and jim I'm workin nights right now so ill try to call ya later tonight around 8:30
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I haven't worked nights in 2 years, just get up at 4 or 5, in bed by 9 or 10.

Jim
 
That must be nice! So can I back out the stud cause with the nut hand tight I still have about 3/16" over the top of the stud or when every thing is stretched it'll be ok?I kinda got to get the motor in while my dads home before he goes to some triple A class for a couple days cause the tranny has to come down and I don't really want to put it back in by myself I've done it before and it stinks
 
Did you bottom tap the holes, doesn't sound like it! Mine are almost flush with the studs and a little grinding on the webbing and it was done, some goes with chuck's 12v and his has ARP's in it!

Jim
 
Ok just got off and home like 2 am or somewhat ill call ya jim when I get to hennessy,ok to get some parts thatll meet me there ill be on the bike once again
 
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