1997 F350 Cummins Swap, 3 Link with Coilovers, Etc.

Time for a little update. The headgasket went out last month, 4 days before leaving for Mexico towing a big contractors trailer. I also had to work a 48 hour shift during those 4 days. Needless to say, I was hurting for time to get the gasket replaced. Everything went smoothly and I got a new OEM marine head gasket, my machinist said the head checked out ok, installed ARP 12mm head studs, put 50 miles of test drive on it, and headed to Mexico with fingers crossed. Luckily all went well and everything held together great!

Since I don't feel like spending 60k on a new truck, I have decided to make this one exactly what I want. It already has more power and a nicer riding front end than any new, 1-ton truck on the market. Now that I have the truck ALMOST to where I want it mechanically, I'm starting to direct my focus to the creature comforts and amenities. I recently pulled out the carpet, installed Roadkill sound deadener to the floor and rear of the cab, installed Roadkill MLV/CCF pads, and new carpet. This greatly reduced the road noise and vibrations. Then I had the windows tinted, 20% on all the sides and 4% on the rear.
Here's the current list of "creature comfort projects:
-AC (currently working on adapting the factory 460 AC compressor and lines to work with the cummins)
-EATC from a Super Duty
-Super Duty steering wheel with cruise, stereo, and EATC controls
-Keyless entry with keypad in door (no more taking my keys out of the ignition)
-Auto-down drivers and front passenger windows
-Sound deadener on doors, behind dash, and roof.

Heres a quick pic of the truck with the windows tinted and hooked up to the new trailer:

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Very nice! The trailer is sweet too! Your list of upgrades sounds cool. I sometimes contemplate adding the steering wheel and radio in my wife's excursion so it has the buttons on the wheel but haven't researched what all it will take to finish it.
 
DieselWrencher said:
Very nice! The trailer is sweet too! Your list of upgrades sounds cool. I sometimes contemplate adding the steering wheel and radio in my wife's excursion so it has the buttons on the wheel but haven't researched what all it will take to finish it.
Click to expand...

Thanks man!

As for an update, when I first put this truck together 4 years ago I never did the AC for one reason or another and decided I was not going to go another summer without it. So I started figuring out how I was going to make it work. I basically ruled out being able to use the dodge compressor in the factory location due to the twin turbos and over crowded area. I also didn't like the price of getting custom lines built to mate up to the ford stuff, so I decided to make the factory 460 compressor and lines work. I built a top mount for the compressor and then built a mount for an idler pulley (from a 7.3 powerstroke) to keep the belt routed properly. Since I still have the factory 2nd gen 12v intake horn I had to cut off the extra mount that goes to the front of of the intake plate and make a new tab for the dipstick. Everything fits nicely and is working properly. Since the 460 compressor has a 6 rib pulley I used a 6 rib belt, but I am going to swap out pulleys to an 8 rib from a powerstroke compressor once I find one. Here are some pics of the setup: (Don't mind the messy engine bay, I still have some wiring harness routing, looming, etc. to do)

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-Jon
 
When youre trying to dial in the spring rate for the front coils, do you swap them out with the vendor or wind up with a couple sets to sell on ebay?
Been thinking of moving to coil overs on mine since I cant seem to find an aftermarket spring for the truck that doesnt make my damn kidneys hurt.
Soft-rate coils, my ***...
 
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Kawi600,
I started out with a set of test springs. Then based off of those, the weight of the front of the truck, the compression of the springs, etc. calculated the proper rates to use for the desired ride quality and height.
 
Update time and could use some advice.

The truck has been running well and it has been super nice having AC! I recently went down to San Diego to pick up a buddy that finished his term in the Navy. I brought the big trailer and towed home his truck and car and all of of his stuff. Total weight was just over 24k over the scales.

Everything went great until we were a mile from home and fuel shut off solenoid quit. I replaced the solenoid (which was indeed bad) and it was back to running normal again. Now it has started to intermittently not start. It always starts cold, but sometimes when I turn it off briefly, like in a drive through, it takes two or three tries to get it started again. It cranks and fires and then shuts off. Typically I have to rev it up when it fires and it will stay running. I have not checked to see if it is the FSS or not yet, but since researching the issue I am starting to think that my stock lift pump has failed. Here are the symptoms I am having:
-This motor, since I have had it, has always been nearly impossible to prime after changing the fuel filter. Every time I change the filter I have to pressurize the tank, pull or loosen the delivery valve holders to bleed the air out, and then it will eventually get fuel to the injectors. Once it's running it runs just fine.
-The primer button on lift pump is wet all around it and is leaking, though not enough to leave a mark on the ground. At least not one that I have noticed.
-It is smoking more greyish smoke and low RPM than normal.

I have not checked the fuel pressure yet, but I have ordered a gauge and fitting from Larry B to do some more accurate diagnosing.

If it does indeed need a lift pump I am thinking of going to a FASS. I try to upgrade parts when they need to be replaced in order to keep things as reliable as possible and hopefully last longer than OEM stuff.

So what do you guys think?
Sound like a bad lift pump even if the intermittent starting issue is the FSS?
Is it worth upgrading to a FASS lift pump?

Thank you!
-Jon
 
I'd put a stock one on if you aren't planning on going crazy on power, they're reliable and comparatively cheap.

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I agree with chevota84. Try to keep it simple. If an aftermarket lift pump fails and you are on a trip, you best have a spare. Chances of getting one are slim to none but a stock type can be obtained at most auto parts stores in that case.
 
Awesome work man. I know it's a little old news now. But like others have mentioned, it worries me how far back you UCA mount is on the axle. Yes, you want your upper to be about 70% of your lower length; but you will see that the upper axle mount is almost always vertical. The frame mount is usually forward further on the frame to make the connection.

I hope everything goes best for you, but I would be afraid of a hard braking incident causing the axle to roll forward and buckle the LCA.
 
John,

I am using a 7.3 Powerstroke pump on my Wagon. A variant can be found at NAPA, not sure of other places you have out there. It's the inline style. It can be plumbed into the current supply line, which you will need to then run right to the filter head.

Just another way of doing things.

A/C sounds nice.
 
DieselWrencher,
I didn't think of it that way; that is a good point.

Mike,
Do you know what pressure those run at? Do you happen to have a NAPA part number?

So today I just received the LarryB fuel pressure gauge and installed it. Initially my idle fuel pressure was around 5-7psi. Then I revved it up to 2000-2500rpm and got between 18-21psi. Then after doing that a couple times it started to idle at around 23-25psi and when revved up dropped to around 15-17psi. These results seem really funky to me.
What do you guys think?

-Jon
 
That's not unusual results for a high mile lift pump with a ton of wear on it.
They'll wear and not pump correctly until the fuel "seals" the wear, but under heavy demand they will fade again.
Heat contributes to the problem, as well.

Mark.
 
Mark,
That makes sense. Now it's just to determine whether to go stock replacement or go to an electric lift pump...
 
Brattains is the cheapest place to get Cummins lift pumps if you decide to go that route.

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Thanks for the heads up. We'll see what happens. I just want to put the best lift pump on it for the long run. The whole FASS and Airdog marketing of how their lift pumps "remove" air from fuel is kind of enticing... If it's true
 
Unless you're making 1000+ horsepower, I don't see a NEED for the fancy electric models of pumps.
With the OEM Cummins type HPPLP, (High Pressure Piston Lift Pump) if you're getting air, you'll know it in hard starting and/or white smoking.

I've seen times when an electric pump makes things worse, due to a seal in the pump head going bad and introducing air.

It's pretty plain that Fazz and Air Logs have both been declining in reliability and quality in the last 2-3 years, by what I have seen on here, and personally.
Also, from what I have seen, Fazz has been really bad about not warranting their product, even when people did turn in the registration info.

I think the best advice would be to make sure you have a solid, totally leak free, fuel system prior to the lift pump.

One thing I would advocate is to NOT have a draw straw just free hanging into the tank.

Mark.
 
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Thank you Mark! Good info. It doesn't have any hard starting issues, though it has never started first crank like most other 12v's. It sounds like an OEM lift pump is going to be the way to go.
 
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