99 ALH no acceleration and stall

burnie6bt

burnie6bt

Diesel Raised
Ok some im going to try to give you the symptoms best of my knowledge.

The girlfriend was driving her 99 beetle tdi home last night and it starting running loud than normal, would not let her accelerate she said if she braked or let off the accelerator it would not go above the speed she slowed down to. Then she was braking to get off and check it out over the phone with me and it died on her.

I havent got a chance to look at it because we got home about 3 am but the dash lights came on last night so its not a relay 109 fuse the ECU is getting power at least. My thoughts were the anti shudder valve got caught almost all the way closed and was blocking air causing the poor acceleration and then not enough air to start/keep running. The other thought was the lift pump? im not real knowledgable but the IP resembles a VP44 and wasnt sure if they were fuel lubricated, similarly to the VP44? wondering how likely, if the lift pump were bad, it would be that it would also take out the injection pump.

Any tips or help would be appreciated, Thanks guys
 
There is no lift pump on a 99 unless someone installed one.

Starting to run loud, could be a major exhaust leak or a boost pipe popped off.
Loud symptom could be that the turbo is getting no vacuum and the vanes are wide open

Can you get access to VCDS to read codes?
 
I recently had a similar issue with my car... I would recommend testing the vacuum lines as well as checking the actuator to see if it's sticking/rusted out.

I would also hook up a code-reader to read the code.
 
Hook up the code reader dont remeber the numbers but one was a glow plug relay code which was there previous the other was start of injection timing regulation: control deviation. So im not sure if the injection pump is shot or belt slipped a tooth?

Im sorry I wasnt there when this all happened I believe it was more of a clacking or knock running loud its kinda hard getting second hand information from her shes not real descriptive.
 
ok so the injection pump pulley the 3 bolts that hold it on actually slipped?
timingpulley2.jpg

timingpulley1.jpg


Looks like slipped both ways.. it was kind of difficult to get a good picture but this obviously threw the timing off.
I know the previous owner replaced the IP so im wondering if the bolts were not torqued down to proper spec or maybe they had no loctite and slipped? Not sure what caused it but the injection pump is still pushing fuel when cranked, so its not seized. How much fuel its pushing I dont know didnt have a pressure gauge handy just cracked the lines.
 
Pull one out and see if it is necked by the head, if so its a one time use bolt and should be replaced immediately. tighten it back up, turn the crank to TDC(see the mark on the flywheel), grab a 22mm socket, first loosen the 3 bolts, grab a 5mm drill bit or similar, then use the 22mm socket on a wrench to line up the slot with the hole in the pump, tighten 3 bolts to 15ft-lbs. This will get you close, you need to use VCDS to do it right.

I see the first pic the bolt says 8.8, still check it but its probably not a stretch bolt.
 
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ahh I see ok i appreciate all the help. This is not goin to be something im goin to tackle but i may be helping in the process. I appreciate the tips wish I had the time to do it myself and learn a little more about this lil machines.
 
It is quite simple to tackle this yourself actually, just get over the fear of it first :)

You don't need to pull the timing belt or anything like the picture above.
You can do it with 1 ratchet and two sockets and a mirror even if you don't have a pin.

With the 3 bolts on the sprocket tight, put your car in 5th gear and jack up the drivers front wheel, turn that forward until you are at top dead center - there is both a mark on the flywheel and a mark on the harmonic balancer. You will also have that window on the IP sprocket close to TDC at the time.

Put the crank at TDC

Crack the 3 bolts loose with a 12 or 13mm socket, just cracked, no tension on them but not out.

Take a 22mm socket, put it on the main big nut, do not crank on this nut, you are just doing a minor adjustment, align the window in the sprocket with the hole in the pump - insert pin if you have one, .196in or 5mm pin, or #9 drill bit will work in a pinch. If you don't have either, you can try to do this visually
see this pic: http://www.myturbodiesel.com/images/a4/TB_head_rem/pinhole-b.jpg

Now that the pump is lined up, tighten the 3 bolts to 18 ft-lbs

It will start and run, should run pretty decent at this point. It should now have VCDS hooked up to fine tune the timing.
 
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