After o ring and head work now leaking oil again front of cyl head

Dieselguy6

Dieselguy6

Good Hooks Wanted!!!
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Aug 22, 2009
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Ok I need some advice from all of you please. I just got my 2001 24 valve cylinder head back from ZZ custom fab. The work was nice and worth the wait. I had the porting intake and exhaust with the custom sheet metal intake manifold / o-ringing and some threaded plugs where the push in core plugs were. The head was decked and is flat. I used a stock 24 valve gasket (cummins one) with the o ring s and torqued the 12mm arp studs to 125 ft lbs / did one cold / one hot to luke warm ish / and another cold re torque.
Between the 2/3 re torques I did drive the truck not too hard =) , now I have a oil leak out the front of the head again . Before the head was swapped out I had the same issue before with the stock head . (Note the head is a different core I sent to ZZ) I still have the stock head and gasket. I have given the old gasket a visual inspection around the ports and do not see a issue. I am wondering if I should go and try another stock 24 valve gasket/ or a 1/2mm thicker 12 valve gasket and dremel out the needed ports to match.

I am really hoping the block is ok and the 1/2 mm thicker gasket will solve the issue.
any advice ? or sealant I should try ? I really don't want to do this over and over again
I will stick to the proper re torque procedures un like the first time :bang , since I may have botched this In an effort to use the truck since it has been down for some time.
 
august, (duallyspeed) It looked ok it had some rust along the exhaust manifold side . it cleaned up ok with a rolock disc.
 
I should have checked the block it with a straight edge and feeler gauges though to be sure. ya know what they say ...
 
You really need to check the block to see if its truely flat to know where the problem is. I wouldnt really use any sealant/additives!!! All that will be is a crutch thats going to break eventually and then you will end up doing it over anyways. As far as a thicker gasket thats just another quick fix that will fail and you may not be as lucky next time and end up with antifreeze in the oil. Then its game over. Best rule if its worth doing do it right the first time.

I just had the same issue with mine same cylinder and all leaking out the passenger side front. Fortunetly enough my head and block checked out good just too much boost. Good luck though
 
Was the leaking problem before you hit the deck with the rolock disc?
 
I always use rolock discs too clean the block up, just skim over them real fast and light and with even pressure. Havn't had any problems so far. (knock on wood lol) But if you werent really careful you coulda gouged the block...
 
I use a razor blade and fine wire wheel disks, not had a problem doing it that way. I think if it was leaking before the same way and you know the gasket and head are ok then the next step is machining the block. If your good enough with an abrasive pad and patient enough you may be able to flatten it out by hand using a straight edge.
 
Dieselguy6 said:
Ok I need some advice from all of you please. I just got my 2001 24 valve cylinder head back from ZZ custom fab. The work was nice and worth the wait. I had the porting intake and exhaust with the custom sheet metal intake manifold / o-ringing and some threaded plugs where the push in core plugs were. The head was decked and is flat. I used a stock 24 valve gasket (cummins one) with the o ring s and torqued the 12mm arp studs to 125 ft lbs / did one cold / one hot to luke warm ish / and another cold re torque.
Between the 2/3 re torques I did drive the truck not too hard =) , now I have a oil leak out the front of the head again . Before the head was swapped out I had the same issue before with the stock head . (Note the head is a different core I sent to ZZ) I still have the stock head and gasket. I have given the old gasket a visual inspection around the ports and do not see a issue. I am wondering if I should go and try another stock 24 valve gasket/ or a 1/2mm thicker 12 valve gasket and dremel out the needed ports to match.

I am really hoping the block is ok and the 1/2 mm thicker gasket will solve the issue.
any advice ? or sealant I should try ? I really don't want to do this over and over again
I will stick to the proper re torque procedures un like the first time :bang , since I may have botched this In an effort to use the truck since it has been down for some time.
Click to expand...

What was the protrusion of the o-rings? Too much seals compression real good, but everything else not so well. How bad is it leaking? You might get away with another retorque. What are you using for thread lube? ARP is excellent stuff. Alot of moly lubes just don't measure up for what we need for our application. Most people don't realize what a huge difference thread lubes make in the actual clamping force made on the head after you torque it.
 
we had a similar problem on a local truck (blown HG out the front right after o-ring/head stud) and it turned out to be a little dirt left on the block right up against the fan mount... took a razor blade, cleaned it up and has worked great since.

Lavon
 
I'd try tightening the studs to 130 ft lbs on a warm engine. Don't loosen and retorque, just torque all the nuts to 130 with a warm engine. See if it seals the leak by settling-in the gasket.

If it doesn't fix the leak, but does slow it down, I think i'd try 135 ft lbs. If the leak doesn't slow at 130, don't waste your time or risk breaking a stud by going higher torque. If you had stock head bolts, I'd try 145 ft lbs on a warm motor.
 
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