Are valve springs need with new cam?

T

txag09

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Dec 9, 2008
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Just like the title says, do you have to get new heavy duty valve springs when putting in a new aftermarket cam? I will be getting a hamilton 181/210.
 
Springs

Absolutely change them. I have used two brands that are most talked about on these forums and with less than 20k on each set when checked they had spring pressure all over the place. I am NOW trying a third set. These are double springs. These single springs do NOT hold up.
 
I'd consider breaking in the new cam with the stock springs first.....

Then change to aftermarket springs....

Your new cam will love you for it...
 
OEM springs for break in of new cam

Not a good idea, IMHO. Good way to kiss a piston with your valves. Been there,... done that.
 
OT-OF-Here said:
Not a good idea, IMHO. Good way to kiss a piston with your valves. Been there,... done that.
Click to expand...

I'm not talking about giving it hell while doing so, just calm easy driving and then do the swap when you're readt to turn it up a bit...

Anyway, was just a thought and have heard it recommended by cam / spring maker.....
 
Thanks for the info guys I will talk to zack and see what he recommends. He has been more than helpful up to this point.
 
If you are going to be keeping with stock rpm and not getting your boost over 45psi or more, it is not a 100% necessity. If you are going over either one of these limits, it is very important to change them.

As far as breaking in a cam with stock springs, it can be a good thing if a cam is having wear issues. It is easier on the cam during break-in for sure but we don't require it.


Zach
 
it dont matter if it's stock psi or 500 psi springs the cam and lifters dont get harder once "break in" is over, poor cam shaft and lifter design is a fault all to itself.....

only thing stock springs with a new cam does is it will get you thru until you put in higher psi springs, thats it!!! If your after market cam and lifters cant make it with aftermarket springs, then there are issue's you as the owner/ installer should have looked into before purchase.
 
Not like I'm a pro or anything, just seems lighter spring pressure would be easier on the lobe faces and lifter faces as the burnish in...
 
As I stated earlier, If you are running OE rpm and not over 45 psi then you can run OE springs. Faster ramp rates multiplied by higher rpms dictate more spring pressure. Also higher boost than 45+/- psi can open the valve prematurely or at the wrong time due to boost or drive pressure acting on the surface area of the closed valve.

We don't require break-in springs because of our lobe width advantage, but it will not hurt. The components hardness does not change but they do wear in to each other after startup. On our camshafts you can see how the parkerized coating starts to polish in areas the camshaft breaks through the oil film early on after startup. The parkerized finish serves a few purposes. since it is porous it has peaks and valley. It helps oil to cling to to the lobe for added safety during break-in. The peaks, that break through the oil film act like lapping compound between the tappet and the lobe. Break-in is a very important time. A few years ago we were seeing very little wear on tappets beacause cams rarely broke through the oil film. Now with the lower zinc oils we have, tappet all to often have a concave shape as opposed to crown shape they came with from the factory, This means they are touching! This is also the main reason we recomend replacing tappets, so that the two pieces have the right shape to start and then wear in with small amounts of "lapping" to a finish that is conducive to a long service life under extreme conditions.
Here is an article that talks more in depth about break in. Remember we have MUCH wider lobes and tappets than does the gas world. Flat-Tappet Camshafts - Camshaft Break-In - Stock Car Racing Magazine


Zach Hamilton
 
Well I am still in the oem rpm range but I can spool of 45 psi. So are the tappets a much to replace as well?
 
TXAustin said:
The Smarty TNTR lets you fuel to 4000RPM. Most racers are running 3500-4000RPM down the track.
Click to expand...

Racers with 5.9's. The OP, and I are 6.7's and lack the tuning for that. It will be here one day...I hope. Zach I left a message at your shop, if you have time.

-aron
 
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