C.B. Radios and Linear Amps

Santa Gertrudis said:
Lemme know where you mount that 10k and how it works out. I want one, but I dont want to have to mount it way up in the air to get the SWRs down. We shall see I suppose.
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When i had mine, I used the hockey puck style mount. You had to cut a hole in the roof though. I picked up 3s units using the 10k over the K40.
 
I live in hyde park dutchess county. sorry havent had a comp for a long time




Hammer said:
Ok I'll bite and ask....

Big A...
Please explain to me what the addition of "big finals" does to a Cobra.

I mean this nicely as a Cobra is a 1 watt driver with a 1 watt chassis board and a 5 watt final.IF you change both the driver and final out for bigger ones you are still left with the limiting capabilities of the 1 watt chassis circuits.To attain the 60-65 watts you say is virtually impossible without a complate circuit board change.The absolute best Cobra was the old Phillipine built 29LTD,not the classic,the ORIGINAL.In its tuned form with bigger drivers and finals it would keydown about 4-7 watts and swing hard into the high 30's on a full audio swing,but it would create heat and not last long that way.Most good techs would set them to go about 4 watts deadkey and swing them about 25-27 watts so you could talk longer safely without failure.

Santa Gertrudis....
Its much cheaper to buy a low end Magnum or Stryker and have it tuned instead.The cost of the Cobra and the Connex Board install is around what you can get a Magnum S-3 or a Stryker 440hp for and they have about all most guys will need for big audio drive.

Also that Connex 3300hp is an Ok unit but the way its designed inside it allows to much white noise in it(it does not utilize a digital reciever).It never quiets down and because of that it severely hampers the recieve side and the Magnum and Stryker will out perform it badly.The 3300HP at one time may have been the rage but now there are better choices for the same money.

One other thing...Scrap the Texas Star junk and get a real amp.The best amps money can buy for power are made by "Dave Made" and "X-Force",all the rest is taking up shelf space.

dieselkeith...
Where are you located at in NY?.

UNBROKEN...
Me either,plus the fact that I listen to them all day long at work means I do not want to hear that BS all night long too,LOL.

Zak....
Someone lied to you.
And I have been around alot of big audio drive units and never have seen one stall a motor when they keyed down.Well not a Cobra radio anyway.You do of course realize that its a 2 pill unit and will do at best 100-130 watts on a full drive,right?.Plus,they only list for $229 new and ready for you at most any radio shop.
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I have a cobra 25ltd doing 38 watts on a stock final on a bird meter with a swing kit going in to a fatboy one pill in to a dave made ten pill and I go to many keydowns on the east coast. They call me QBALL #99 the parkway pakistani one of NJs largest radios. I also do all of my own work and installs.
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If anyone wants to see me in action come to the keydown on may 10th at the little egg harbor 4H club park. 20 mins from Atlantic city. Gates open at 8:00am
 
I have a Galaxy DX33HML dead key 2watt low 12 watt high
Keying 25 to 30 watt.and have a Galaxy 350 and a FC-30BT and I,m running a K40 ant.on the left side of bed .the ? is what size coax doo I need to run and what lenght.

Dale
 
Radio install location

I cut a piece of 1x4 boad so that it fit in bettween the sun visor screws above the rear view mirror. I reached up and gently pulled the headliner down just enough to insert the board up inside the headliner. Be carefule when you pull on the headliner it has fiber glass in it and it will go every where.

I made this install suggestion to a friend and he had the AC running during the headliner pull and blew fiberglass all over.

Any how . Gently pull down headliner just enough to insert board above rearview. You wont need anytools to do this.

Take the radio mount with radio attached to it and line it up so its center bettween the sun visors and make sure there is enough room to screw on the coax and power cable.

Mount the radio mount by using short wood screws that will go through the head liner into the wood So that the headliner is sandwiched bettween the CB radio mount and the piece of 1x4 wood.

Note this is a solid mount and it will not sag a factory headliner or interfere with rearview if you take your time and do it right. I have used this mounting method in 10 different dodge pickups and havnt gotten a complaint yet.

This will not work on a truck with an overhead console already in this spot.

You will also need a minimum of 12 feet of power cable to reach battery and at least 18 feet of coax cable to reach antenna. You will only need to buy a 12 foot section if your antenna is fender or roof mounted, and at least 25 feet if your antenna is out on the bed.

The reason I took the time to write all this is because I really hated having the radio down under my feet all the time. I also tried sandiwiching it bettween the center console and drivers seat and that also sucked because i couldnt hear the speaker.
 
Amp Killing truck

I have a stock alternator and a factory Battery. I have a an 8 pill amp that will do about 2200 watts with a 110 watt driver. I can kill my truck if I stay keyed down too long. I watch the amp gauge and let off the mic when it shows a little under half or the truck will die.

I know that a lot of guys will say that a huge battery bank is the way to go. I will not argue with them. I will say that the two 100 Farad capacitors i have wire up under my back seat will do almost the same job as a battery bank.

These caps cost just as much a battery but dont take up the space. they are the size of a lawn mower battery and do a pretty good job of keeping my stock voltage from dropping.

Remember if you can find a big cap for your setup that the Positive wire from radio, driver , and big amp go to the positive screw on the cap and the negative portion of the cap gets grounded to the frame. The negative cables from the radio driver and big amp gets frame grounded in a separate spot from the capacitor. You have to install cap like this or you wont notice it helping.$.02
 
RacinDuallie said:
And to also add to BG's post make sure the radio is mounted securely and that is does not bounce around in its mount.... This will eventually cause the boards inside to loosen and some of those boards need to remain grounded.....
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Tell me about it. I had my Galaxy Mirage 88 in my old Iveco mounted up overhead and shaking nonstop. Now it just dead keys. Some day I'll get it fixed, but I haven't used either of my Galaxy units in probably 10 years...
 
In my jeep I had a 520xl with a power mike and a 2 pill amp that a buddy sold me. I talked all over the place. I even picked up a skip to kansas while sitting in my ex-girlfriends driveway. He thought I was a base. I need to drop one of my antennas on this set up in my SD. They are just too close and I don't talk for nothing. I will have a new amp with in the year. By the end of summer I want to rewire all my extra electrical goodies and clean things up. When I do that I will drop one antenna and convert the other to my scanner. I used to be able to talk with my k-40 with the same cb..... now i have a hard time talking a mile.
 
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