wildcat455
New member
With all the talk lately on the boards about intakes, I decided to upgrade my stock intake.
I contacted Gus at FarmBoys Diesel when I was ready to purchase. My past experiences with purchases from him were outstanding and this transaction was no different!
Farmboys Diesel can get you all the popular makes and models.
I decided on the CFM+ Carbon Fiber look alike with the three ports tapped in the back.
Shipping from Farmboys Diesel was prompt, as usual.
Due to my work, and personal life, I was a little slow in getting it installed.
I had some time today, so I decided to tackle the project.
The kit from CFM+ was VERY complete.
It comes with everything needed to do the install and Hand tool requirements are minimum.
There are 3 plugged pre-tapped ports on the back available for use.
After a quick inventory, and reading the installation instructions, it was time to get busy.
This installation was done on a 2007 5.9L. Here’s a before picture.
First step is to remove the negative leads on both batteries. 10mm
Then remove the dipstick bolt, and rotate it out of the way. 10mm.
Remove the nut and washer that holds the wiring harnesses on the back of the stock intake, and remove the harnesses from the stock intake. A screwdriver may help.
Loosen the boost hose clamp. 11mm
Remove the 4 bolts holding the stock intake in place. 10mm
Remove the stock intake from the truck. The wiring harness stud will be used in the new CFM+ intake, now is a good time to swap it over.
I was able to leave the wiring to the heater block intact, and swing it out of the way.
Remove the Graphite gasket, and scrape any remaining gasket material from the mating surface.
Loosening the bolts closest to the block caused some rust and debris to fall into the intake, plus a little gasket material invariably finds it’s way in there, so I used a Shop Vac to clean up the intake before proceeding.
Place the new Factory Graphite gasket on the manifold, then the heater block, and to save trouble fitting it on later, (Clearance to the valve cover is tight.) the Aluminum reinforced gasket on top of the heater block. Install the studs by hand at first to get the threads started. Then use the 2 13mm nuts tightened against each other to tighten each stud into the manifold.
Before installing the CFM+ check the tightness of the 3 port plugs (3/16 allen wrench) or install fittings to the ports you wish to use. Your wiring harness stud should also be installed before this step.
Install the CFM+ on the studs, and start the end into the boost hose
Using the provided Flat washers and self locking nuts (13mm) snug the CFM+ down, then torque evenly to 140 in. lbs.
Place the wiring harnesses and washer on the wiring harness stud, and tighten nut.
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=15eteok&s=3
Rotate the dipstick tube to its new mounting point. Start the dipstick-mounting bolt by hand to keep from cross threading, and then tighten with wrench.
Tighten boost hose clamp to 100 in. lbs.
Reconnect negative battery leads.
Finished install
Whichever intake you choose to put on your truck, give Gus a call
I contacted Gus at FarmBoys Diesel when I was ready to purchase. My past experiences with purchases from him were outstanding and this transaction was no different!
Farmboys Diesel can get you all the popular makes and models.
I decided on the CFM+ Carbon Fiber look alike with the three ports tapped in the back.
Shipping from Farmboys Diesel was prompt, as usual.
Due to my work, and personal life, I was a little slow in getting it installed.
I had some time today, so I decided to tackle the project.
The kit from CFM+ was VERY complete.
It comes with everything needed to do the install and Hand tool requirements are minimum.
There are 3 plugged pre-tapped ports on the back available for use.
After a quick inventory, and reading the installation instructions, it was time to get busy.
This installation was done on a 2007 5.9L. Here’s a before picture.
First step is to remove the negative leads on both batteries. 10mm
Then remove the dipstick bolt, and rotate it out of the way. 10mm.
Remove the nut and washer that holds the wiring harnesses on the back of the stock intake, and remove the harnesses from the stock intake. A screwdriver may help.
Loosen the boost hose clamp. 11mm
Remove the 4 bolts holding the stock intake in place. 10mm
Remove the stock intake from the truck. The wiring harness stud will be used in the new CFM+ intake, now is a good time to swap it over.
I was able to leave the wiring to the heater block intact, and swing it out of the way.
Remove the Graphite gasket, and scrape any remaining gasket material from the mating surface.
Loosening the bolts closest to the block caused some rust and debris to fall into the intake, plus a little gasket material invariably finds it’s way in there, so I used a Shop Vac to clean up the intake before proceeding.
Place the new Factory Graphite gasket on the manifold, then the heater block, and to save trouble fitting it on later, (Clearance to the valve cover is tight.) the Aluminum reinforced gasket on top of the heater block. Install the studs by hand at first to get the threads started. Then use the 2 13mm nuts tightened against each other to tighten each stud into the manifold.
Before installing the CFM+ check the tightness of the 3 port plugs (3/16 allen wrench) or install fittings to the ports you wish to use. Your wiring harness stud should also be installed before this step.
Install the CFM+ on the studs, and start the end into the boost hose
Using the provided Flat washers and self locking nuts (13mm) snug the CFM+ down, then torque evenly to 140 in. lbs.
Place the wiring harnesses and washer on the wiring harness stud, and tighten nut.
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=15eteok&s=3
Rotate the dipstick tube to its new mounting point. Start the dipstick-mounting bolt by hand to keep from cross threading, and then tighten with wrench.
Tighten boost hose clamp to 100 in. lbs.
Reconnect negative battery leads.
Finished install
Whichever intake you choose to put on your truck, give Gus a call
