jimbo486
New member
- Joined
- Jan 24, 2010
- Messages
- 1,617
While troubleshooting a reduction in power since late last year, I'm trying to eliminate any and every possibility and find out why. The Giles VE and 5x.013s made the truck an absolute monster! But power seemed to taper off after a few months, according to my butt dyno anyway. Unless I just so happened to get used to it so soon, which I kinda find hard to believe. Timing was checked and reset to a lesser advance as suggested by Giles (from 1.3mm to 1.2mm of plunger travel at TDC) and fuel inlet pressure backed down to 18-20psi, also suggested by Giles.
Back when I installed the pump, I swapped the factory tappet cover for a billet piece (without a filter element), I noticed excess blow-by when running 2,000-2,200RPM constantly over a 45-60min trip to my sister's place. Oil covered everything on the driverside from the firewall back. After that event, I plumbed the blow-by to a homemade canister filled with stainless steel mesh and with a breather filter clamped to the top of it to catch any vapors but that still wasn't enough. It seems to hold up fine on day-to-day drives to and from work though.
When I noticed the "power reduction" a while back, the motor had developed what sounded like an extra rattle which slowly seemed to turn into a light knock. At least, in my head anyway. I thought maybe I'm just paranoid. That's what prompted me to check the timing as described above. I also ran the overhead to eliminate anything. All of the rockers were at Cummins specs. with maybe 3 or 4 of them needing very slight adjustments.
Here's the kicker... I changed the oil near the end of this past February before heading out to a training class for work. Driving down the freeway I realized, "I don't hear that rattle/light knock anymore...." Sure enough, the oil broke down, as it does naturally. Rattle/light knock is back!
:nail:
I recently found out that a friend of mine has a compression tester set with the adapter for a 12v head. He gladly sent it my way so I could see just how healthy or unhealthy this ol' pig is. After driving around to get the motor up to operating temperature, I yanked all the injectors and cut the fuel supply (disconnected shutdown solenoid and tied the manual shutdown lever back) and ran a test on each cylinder while still warm. Temperatures were getting fairly cool once I got to #5 and #6. With an estimated 500k miles, I'm surprised at the results. Now what? :hehe:
Back when I installed the pump, I swapped the factory tappet cover for a billet piece (without a filter element), I noticed excess blow-by when running 2,000-2,200RPM constantly over a 45-60min trip to my sister's place. Oil covered everything on the driverside from the firewall back. After that event, I plumbed the blow-by to a homemade canister filled with stainless steel mesh and with a breather filter clamped to the top of it to catch any vapors but that still wasn't enough. It seems to hold up fine on day-to-day drives to and from work though.
When I noticed the "power reduction" a while back, the motor had developed what sounded like an extra rattle which slowly seemed to turn into a light knock. At least, in my head anyway. I thought maybe I'm just paranoid. That's what prompted me to check the timing as described above. I also ran the overhead to eliminate anything. All of the rockers were at Cummins specs. with maybe 3 or 4 of them needing very slight adjustments.
Here's the kicker... I changed the oil near the end of this past February before heading out to a training class for work. Driving down the freeway I realized, "I don't hear that rattle/light knock anymore...." Sure enough, the oil broke down, as it does naturally. Rattle/light knock is back!
:nail:
I recently found out that a friend of mine has a compression tester set with the adapter for a 12v head. He gladly sent it my way so I could see just how healthy or unhealthy this ol' pig is. After driving around to get the motor up to operating temperature, I yanked all the injectors and cut the fuel supply (disconnected shutdown solenoid and tied the manual shutdown lever back) and ran a test on each cylinder while still warm. Temperatures were getting fairly cool once I got to #5 and #6. With an estimated 500k miles, I'm surprised at the results. Now what? :hehe:
