Driveline Question?

DaveLjr

LB7
Joined
Jan 24, 2011
Messages
89
Have a 2001 ccsb and just wondering how much hp the stock drive shaft will take? R there any upgrades for universal joints and caps? My truck has carrier bearing and i know the new gm trucks use a one piece allum. shaft... wich is better?
 
1800 hp :) There is an upgraded yoke that converts a 1410 to a 1430 I believe ? Think it's mostly for pullin though.
Spicer joints are best, and I've seen a few pullers chunk that aluminum driveshaft for a custom steel unit
 
1800 hp :) There is an upgraded yoke that converts a 1410 to a 1430 I believe ? Think it's mostly for pullin though.
Spicer joints are best, and I've seen a few pullers chunk that aluminum driveshaft for a custom steel unit

Thanks for the info. I was just curious...its not like u here to many problems!
 
Have a 2001 ccsb and just wondering how much hp the stock drive shaft will take? R there any upgrades for universal joints and caps? My truck has carrier bearing and i know the new gm trucks use a one piece allum. shaft... wich is better?

1800 hp :) There is an upgraded yoke that converts a 1410 to a 1430 I believe ? Think it's mostly for pullin though.
Spicer joints are best, and I've seen a few pullers chunk that aluminum driveshaft for a custom steel unit


The reason GM got away from the 2 piece driveshaft in the CCSB trucks is because they had vibration issues, they went to the 5 inch diameter aluminum shaft because its to long of a stretch for a single piece steel shaft. Any pullers who have ditched the aluminum stocker for a single piece steel have compromised there streetability. A steel driveshaft that would replace that aluminum driveshaft could experience a critical speed failure at highway speeds.

There is a high dollar billet 1480 series yoke that all season diesel performance makes, BUT they claim it is a good replacement for LMM trucks and an upgrade for older trucks. LMM trucks have a 1485 series driveline, which is just different enough where the joints do not interchange. So what the yoke actually fits is a little up in the air. I did ask the manufacturer of the product about the discrepency in an open discussion on another forum and he pretty much ignored me.

If you want to upgrade a pre lmm truck to bigger U-joints, and end yoke of of a zf6 truck(1480 series) and a custom driveshaft is the way to go.
 
I run the stock steel shaft/yokes in the race truck that came stock in it. 2002 single cab long bed. Had the u-joints upgaded and the shaft balanced, but has been holding 1.4 60' times and a big pile of 9 second passes at 6k lbs. Even has some rather large dents in it from the farm. 2 loops per shaft in case, but no problems in 3 seasons.
 
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I run the stock steel shaft/yokes in the race truck that came stock in it. 2002 single cab long bed. Had the u-joints upgaded and the shaft balanced, but has been holding 1.4 60' times and a big pile of 9 second passes at 6k lbs. Even has some rather large dents in it from the farm. 2 loops per shaft in case, but no problems in 3 seasons.


As a driveshaft builder i find that people dont want to listen when i explain that there failure was most likely related to loose parts or cheap U-joints. SO i build them heavier stuff and it costs them a little more, when the customer gets what they want and my profit margin increases, everybody wins.
But your truck is a prime example of what ive always said about 1410 series driveline parts, they are stout and will take alot of punishment.
 
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