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Cummins Bronco

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Joined
Mar 27, 2019
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7
Hello,

Very cool forum, I have much to read on here. Very interesting stuff.

I built a lifted 1978 Bronco with an early non-ic 1991 Cummins, pump maxed out, 4000 rpm spring in it, currently have it apart, doing some repairs and upgrades. I am rebuilding my h1c and upgrading it with a 60mm wheel and housing. I was attempting to reseal my pump when I had an incident.. lol sooo I'm looking for a 12mm rotor and head assembly or an entire good core to pick parts from, if anyone has one laying around.
I have upgraded the lift pump to a piston style with low pressure/high volume, too, so the injector pump will not lack extra fuel to keep it cooled and lubed. Does anyone know of a bosch 13mm rotor and head that was offered on some VE pumps? I read that it was available at one point, but not sure what engine it came with. ( NR number would be 0-460-436-*** ) I also read that the 14mm aftermarket head is a bit much for a daily driven street truck, since it's hard on the pump, and I do need reliability, too.

Anyway, I will be on here poking around, I look forward to sharing ideas and learning stuff.

-Dan
 
Some pictures of the truck
 

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Thanks! It took me 10 months to design, fab, and save money for the project, back in 2009, and it's still ongoing.. lol The never-ending build.
6" skyjacker suspension, 3" body lift, entire driveline moved rearward 4" in the chassis(the weight bias is 56/44% now) I made new brackets for the T-case and dropped it almost 4", so the rear driveshaft, which is quite short, no longer requires a double cardan joint, and I can run standard 1350 joints. The 9" yoke is forged 1350 too. The C6 was built by Dynamic Racing with a converter matched up to the rpm of the Cummins, it makes very little heat and is efficient. I used a Vac. reg. valve from a 6.9 Ford with a custom bracket on the throttle in order to send regulated vacuum to the C6 modulator so it shifts right. The valve is adjustable for shift points.
I'm running 37x12.50R16.5 military tires on 16.5 5-lug steel wheels, the entire front end and axle are rebuilt, using premium parts, and I added a trac-loc unit in the front dana 44. This truck pulls very hard for a Bronco, and has gone through 4 foot snow banks without difficulty. lol
I used the stock 3" downpipe from the dodge and cut it into 3 pieces and created the custom downpipe for the Bronco, running the exhaust outside the frame rail, running into the 4" cherry bomb style through-muffler mounted under the passenger floor.
I upgraded the brakes, too. 1970s T-bird front calipers, have bigger pistons than stock bronco units, while retaining stock pads and rotors. Easy swap. To get more fluid to them, I upgraded to an F350 master cylinder and booster, as well as F350 rear wheel cylinders for the back drums. It will lock all 4 37" tires on dry pavement if I nail the pedal. The stock bronco brakes, in contract, kind of sucked... lol
It averages between 20 and 25 mpg daily, but smoked quite a bit, so I'm in the process of rebuilding and upgrading the turbo and adding a 1999 7.3 Ford intercooler, too. I'm hoping to push power and MPG a bit higher.
 
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More pics.

The flexplate is from destroked, as well as the adapter plate. These pieces are pure works of art. The flexplate is about 3/8" thick and looks pretty invincible. The front hooks I mounted on the truck are from a parts F800 I had, and I made 1/2" steel backing plates for the other side of the frame where they bolt on. You could hang the truck from one of those hooks without hurting it. I am currently adjusting the camber on the dana 44 front axle by utilizing camber adjustment sleeves, .75 degree for the driver side, and 1.5 degree for the passenger side. My camber was positive before, and the tires were wearing on the outside edges pretty bad. I'm hoping it makes the truck steer even better at highway speeds, too. Positive camber sucks.
 

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Did you have any trouble adjusting the cable for that shifter?

It's funny you say that, because I was just thinking the other day, I should maybe shorten the leverage(drill a new hole in the arm) by about 1/16" of inch where it attaches to the Transmission. It kind of feels like the shifter doesn't quite move far enough when I put it into park, even though it does work ok. It's just been bugging me for years lol. Maybe I will finally take it apart and do something with it now that you mentioned it.
 
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