P/N for Trailer lights for 09 Dodge?

[4x4dually]

Anyone have access to anything that would give me the part number for the trailer light connector on the back end of a 2009 Dodge 3500? It is the rectangle 8 pin (I think it is 8 pin), not the round one found on Chebys and Ferds.

I need to make a trailer light tee harness for my gooseneck plug in the bed. The kits off the shelf are $70 and don't have the receptacle I want to use anyway. Robbery I tell ya. Robbery.

Anyone got access to anything showing factory wire harness connector part numbers?

:thankyou2:

 

[4x4dually]

WTF? Why do I always seem to end up with bastardized year models that no one stocks schidt for? This is really wissin' me off.

"We're sorry, but we do not currently stock T Connectors for your 2009 Dodge Ram Full Size Pickup 2500/3500 Mega Cab on this web site."

Do folks not tow with 2009 year models? Jesus people. Let's make connector harnesses for 312 other models but leave this one out.

I need the part number for these connectors, the big ones.

Maybe I can buy one of these for $15 and butcher it. :evil

 

[zstroken]

WTF? Why do I always seem to end up with bastardized year models that no one stocks schidt for? This is really wissin' me off.

"We're sorry, but we do not currently stock T Connectors for your 2009 Dodge Ram Full Size Pickup 2500/3500 Mega Cab on this web site."

Do folks not tow with 2009 year models? Jesus people. Let's make connector harnesses for 312 other models but leave this one out.

I need the part number for these connectors, the big ones.

Maybe I can buy one of these for $15 and butcher it. :evil

Find one for a 2008? I need one, what connector did you end up going with?

Yea the 2009 has some differences, not sure why. Maybe that is why the guy sold the 2009 that you have, he got tired of being left out...

 

[Scooter's Roofing]

Make SURE all of your wiring is sound. Don't overload the circuits or you'll burn up the TIPM. Welcome to late model ownership!

 

[4x4dually]

I'm going to use the 7 round semi plug/recept just like I had in my 02. They are cheap and I've never had problems with them like those bastard RV flat contact ones.

I think I can buy that harness shown above and just trim the flat plug off it and splice onto the rest. That seems to be the cheapest solution since it is only $15 buck. The little chick on the tech line at etrailer.com just pissed me off to the point of sending my comments back to them on the contact page. She kept telling me "that won't work" and "you should have told me that before" and "we can't do anything but sell prepackaged schidt from China that is listed in the book that I was trained to and you are not allowed to aske me anything else because my blonde head might explode."

I'm soooo mad right now. She just tweaked my whole day.

New flat bed is all LED and the stock trailer will be soon enough so overload shouldn't happen.

What is the rating on the aux power? It is current limited by a relay, correct? My hyd dove tail has a battery in the tool box and will pull a gob if not regulated.

 

[4x4dually]

I think this is what I'll do. It seems to be the cheapest route and everything "spliced" will be able to be taken off and the factory stuff put back on with no damage.

Buy a $12 Pollack 11-893P and replace the factory recept in the bumper with it (I'll check dimensions to make sure it will fit later). This gives you the US Car circular connector on the back instead of the ghey rectanglular Dodge one.

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Pollak-11-893P-7-Way-Sealed-Socket/dp/B000B6NQHW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1344522988&sr=8-1&keywords=pollak+11-893"]Amazon.com: Pollak 11-893P 7-Way Sealed RV OEM Socket: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41x-Du7UGSL.@@AMEPARAM@@41x-Du7UGSL[/ame]

Buy a $27 (msrp) Curt Mfg #57300 and snap it in between the factory rectangular connector and the newly installed US Car circular connector.

CURT Manufacturing | Search Results for 57300

Splice your gooseneck pigtail (what ever wire you want) into the Curt adapter (which can be done on a bench in the shop with good light, an easy chair, and a barley pop). Strip, wrap, solder, cover with adhesive heat shrink, whatever satisfies you that it will last a lifetime.

This allows all the spices to be made into something that can be removed later and saves you butchering the factory harness.

You can replace the factory one with a 7-way with 4-way combo plug if you can find one and dock the gheyer 4-way flat hanging down under the truck if you want. That is the most retarded thing I've seen. Take a $50,000 truck and just hang a trailer plug under it with no strain relief. OEM's are stupid.


Oooor, you can be like the rest of the herd and buy an off the shelf $85-$125 harness with the RV recept on it. I hate RV connectors and can make this a hell-uv-a lot cheaper.

 

[4x4dually]

Shop next door has the 57300 in stock! Score!

 

[4x4dually]

Just bought the 57300 and a stock replacement RV with the US Car plug on the back for $52.18. The plug was $24 of it, kinda high, but local and no shipping so I just got it.

Bought 6/12 and 1/10 awg trailer wire and a semil receptacle at NAPA for $30.92 which I needed either way.

A little solder, some shrink, and a big hold in the bedside and I'll be done.

 

[4x4dually]

It worked out great, Dan. The wire color used in the 57300 adapter actually matches the norm (some manus use crazy colors that don't).

White - Gnd
Green - Rt Turn
Yellow - Lt Turn
Blue - Brakes
Brown - Tail
Black - Aux +
Red - Rev Lamps

Here are some pics.

Installed harness

Mounting location on a short bed. I put a backing plate behind it to stiffen the sheet metal and used a 2" greenlee hole punch.

Terminated 7-way round pin

Lots of Scott Super 88+ tape

Alpha FIT heat shrink

Done

Got the trailer on today to pick up a load of tubing for rails around our deck. Works like a champ!

Pin-out for 7-way Round. The purple in the diagram is usually the red wire from the RV plug.

When I spliced into the adapater, I took yellow and large red butt splices and cut the insulation off them to reduce diameter. I use a T&B Sta-Kon crimper and slide heat shrink over each connection after the crimp.