P-pumped 24valve?

RacinDuallie said:
LOL just pull the gauge cluster out plug in the soldering iron and de-solder the pesky bulb outta there........
Click to expand...
thats the first thing ill be doing. i cant stand that little light*bdh*
 
Well now,

Here's a little input gained from the p-pump conversions I've worked on.

The 24v timing cover doesn't have enough meat to be machined to bolt up the p-pump. You must use a cam sensor, either make an adaptor for the 12v timing case or just order one from Haisley. Keep the original ecm and relocate it to the frame. Obviously, you'll need a p-pump, the 12v timing case, pump mounts, gear,throttle linkage on the pump and all bolts and hardware. Some type of fuel supply pump and return line system of your choice. 12 valve throttle cable and return springs. Either a manual fuel shut-off or wire the shut off/on solenoid to a 70 amp relay. If your're truck is an automatic, modify the apps assembly to mount onto the p-pump. This requires no wiring modifications whatsoever to make the trans work properly. For the oil supply line, rather than grind the head and struggle with the line clearance between the pump and head, run the supply line to the outer side of the pump. There is a fitting right in front of the rear/outer mounting bolt on the p-pump that is plumbed into a pipe fitting which is on the side of the block just to the rear of the ps pump. Use the same size line as the oil oem supply line. Use a pipe plug on the original p-pump oil supply fitting.This is a lot easier than squeezing a line between the block and head.
Timing for the everyday driver is good in the high teens. Racing timing has seen good results 23-25 so far.
Get the injector pop off pressure re-done to p-pump specs. Injector lines from Haisley or Scheid come with the intake spacer and for overall driveability, stay with .078 or .084 sizes. Any bigger and the low end response and idle really gets choppy.
Get the pump calibrated, maybe some dv's and gov springs. Think seriously about the stock valvetrain limitations if you're a fan of big rpm.

If ya'll got any questions, feel free to gimme a call. I'll answer what I can based on my experiences. If I don't know the answer to your question, I'll tell ya just that.

Cousin Billy
BRC Diesel Performance
California, Ky.
859-635-5655
 
Cousin Billy said:
Well now,

Here's a little input gained from the p-pump conversions I've worked on.

The 24v timing cover doesn't have enough meat to be machined to bolt up the p-pump. You must use a cam sensor, either make an adaptor for the 12v timing case or just order one from Haisley. Keep the original ecm and relocate it to the frame. Obviously, you'll need a p-pump, the 12v timing case, pump mounts, gear,throttle linkage on the pump and all bolts and hardware. Some type of fuel supply pump and return line system of your choice. 12 valve throttle cable and return springs. Either a manual fuel shut-off or wire the shut off/on solenoid to a 70 amp relay. If your're truck is an automatic, modify the apps assembly to mount onto the p-pump. This requires no wiring modifications whatsoever to make the trans work properly. For the oil supply line, rather than grind the head and struggle with the line clearance between the pump and head, run the supply line to the outer side of the pump. There is a fitting right in front of the rear/outer mounting bolt on the p-pump that is plumbed into a pipe fitting which is on the side of the block just to the rear of the ps pump. Use the same size line as the oil oem supply line. Use a pipe plug on the original p-pump oil supply fitting.This is a lot easier than squeezing a line between the block and head.
Timing for the everyday driver is good in the high teens. Racing timing has seen good results 23-25 so far.
Get the injector pop off pressure re-done to p-pump specs. Injector lines from Haisley or Scheid come with the intake spacer and for overall driveability, stay with .078 or .084 sizes. Any bigger and the low end response and idle really gets choppy.
Get the pump calibrated, maybe some dv's and gov springs. Think seriously about the stock valvetrain limitations if you're a fan of big rpm.

If ya'll got any questions, feel free to gimme a call. I'll answer what I can based on my experiences. If I don't know the answer to your question, I'll tell ya just that.

Cousin Billy
BRC Diesel Performance
California, Ky.
859-635-5655
Click to expand...


Thanks for the info:Cheer:
 
Dazed&Confused said:
Ok can someone tell me if this is for a P-Pumped engine?
Look here
Andy
Click to expand...

This timing cover (steel) is the same in 12v and 24V engines.

For 24V P-pump swap you need 12V front gear housing (aluminium)
 
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