Stud this truck?

I am putting it back together with the stock HPOP, egr delete, new oil cooler and ford updates. Already have the coolant filter kit, sct tuner and 4" exhaust so that is going on. I will run synthetic oil and see how it goes. If I like the truck I will get ready for a rebuld in the future. I will pull samples on the oil after the first oil change and see what it looks like. Should I replace the IPR valve or just clean and reinstall? It has some debris on it but filter screen is intact and most of the debris rinsed off with a spray of deep creep. I am learning the 6.0. Cummins sure is simple, but 20 years of fixing everything Dodge and the multiple common rail issues have turned me into a Ford guy. I hauled farm tractor and skid steer all day today with this 2012 6.7 with the whole family in the truck, so much better with the Ford. Thanks Scooter for replying to my posts. I have a hand full of guys that I talk to (good mechanics) but it's nice to get others opinions. These good mechanics want replace every damn thing but they are the ones making the money not paying the bill. I will take a few chances.
 
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no worries man. I was a Dodge Cummins guy for many many years

but I've been a 6.0+ Super Duty guy for over 4yrs now. I love 6.4's, though I don't really recommend them to novice buyers :eek:

Took me a year or two to really warm up to the 6.0's, but now I contend that they are the best truck out there for the money. As an added bonus, because the trucks are so well built and they built SO MANY of them and there are SO MANY of them still in service out on the road, OEM and aftermarket parts are READILY available...

the feds gave incentive to companies to phase the trucks out of service for emissions etc. because so many companies were watching their newer 6.4's die early and expensive deaths that they stretched the lifespans of their 6.0 trucks.

I constantly see white 6.0's in service in various municipalities and companies all over the place.

but I digress... OFTEN! :D

I hope you have good luck with the truck. I'm on my 4th 6.0 right now, and I'm just tickled every day to drive it. It's a well worn ex-supervisor truck (plain white but lariat/leather/fx4/20's/chrome package/etc.) with 8200hrs on it and not a single solitary WHISP of blowby.

a similarly addorned Dodge (06/07 QCSB Laramie 4x4 w/ console, etc.) with equal miles/hours from the same year will cost you $5-15k more than what I've got in this thing. And my dash still looks brand new and my seats are actually supportive whereas my 06 Dodge seats damn near crippled me with only 65k miles on them.

And if I shell the motor? (which rarely happens) I can pick up a complete running base model 2wd TRUCK in nice shape with 100k miles for $7k or less. And that's a nice looking truck! I can get a basher with 150-200k for $4-5k.

So finding a good running pull-out motor for $2500-3500 isn't out of the question.

Anybody priced the Dodge/Cummins equivalents to that stuff lately?

I'll shut up now! LOL
 
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Scooter knows his stuff, especially about the Fords, and when I have a question about mine, I ask him. He's very knowledgeable.
 
man, if I were the one spinning the wrenches? I'd probably replace it. But I'm bad about that. When I've got stuff apart, I have a bad habit of replacing stuff that doesn't necessarily need replacing because I don't want to have to tear it back apart later.
 
I'm usually the same way but I found the screen and o rings in the STC kit so I just put them on the old valve and stuck it in. I'm getting used to the 6.0 and this thing is going back together real easy.
 
Back in the day, when compared to the other trucks on the road, they were alien spacecraft as far as working on them.

But these days, they're one of the simpler to work on diesels that are still a healthy percentage of those on the road
 
Loaded the gearhead SRL tune tonight and went for a drive. Impressed with the tune and the capability of the 6.0, to say the least. Logged data with the X4, oil/coolant temp matrix never got over 12 deg. Runs great shifts great, there is one shift (I think 3-4) that is just a touch off, almost like it shifts and locks up the TC just a half second later, but it's not harsh. I have less money in this entire truck than I have put into mods on some previous I6 trucks that would not touch this truck in a drag race. That said it will most likely see wide open only a few times again in the rest of it's life. I am worried about the cam galling and I think I will pull an oil sample next time I change oil to see what kind of metals it has. As solid as this truck is it is worthy of an engine rebuild or replacement engine one of these days. I watched a 111,000 mile 06 company truck sell in an online auction for $4,400 this week so I will most likely search for another if I need an engine. Why did I love on the D trucks so much in the past? That is a rhetorical question, they have their strong points but possibly I needed a reason to go out in the shop and work back then. When I was towing this 6.0 home the 5 speed in my 02 Dodge locked up and killed the engine about 1 mile from home. First time in 280,000 that it has left me stranded though (except for that time the injector pump quit at 103k, it was only 3 years old and I pulled the 80k cluster out of another one of my Dodge's and put in this one so Dodge paid the tow and repair bill under warranty), anyway it's back to the shop for me, trying to decide if I want to rebuild this trans (again) or pay 1450 for a warrantied rebuild. That truck is pretty much a feed truck anymore, but it still gets 10k miles a year. After that it's shop time for the 06 2500 Dodge with electric issues (imagine that). I have one 7.3 left that hardly gets driven anymore, it has been the go to back up with out issue up to this point but I just have too many trucks now and it is next on the for sale list simply because it is not a 4 door or 4wd. Now that I know how to make these 6.0's run I cant see keeping this 7.3 around any more. Just rambling at this point, thanks for the help so far.

Two 6.0 ?

Is 28.9 lbs boost the max the factory boost gauge reads? That was the recorded high.

How head gasket safe is this tune with full throttle runs to 90mph in an empty truck?
 
Scooter's Roofing said:
I haven't blown one yet, but it's certainly capable. But the standard SRL is designed as a bolt-safe tune
Click to expand...

It's just hard for me to comprehend that it could run like this and not be stressing some component. I am putting a lot of faith in the gearhead tune. I ran the performance tune from SCT for about 2 min and the smoke show made me take it off. Couldn't find the right gear at half throttle and just blew smoke, with no acceleration. That's when I ordered the gearhead tune. I am going to try the towing tunes tomorrow, I will do a little testing but unless the MPG is noticeably better with the SLR than 8k tow, it will most likely stay tuned at 8k towing.
 
Update. Ran about 15 miles on the SRL tune and then put the 8k tow tune on and left it there. Put about 2000 miles on it towing and some empty driving. Pulling about 5000 lbs back from the ranch and I get home to a knocking engine. Sct has been on with oil temp, coolant temp, boost and mph displayed never got more than 15 deg between oil/coolant and it runs great. Did put in one injector and a new radiator (pin hole leak) since the last post. I'm going to pull the engine and only fix what is hurt. Still has zero blow by, hasn't burned any oil and no temp reading get out of whack. The knock shows up as engine warms up I am guessing a lifter/cam issue. Doesn't sound deep. I tried the injector kill at idle with a snap on scanner and if anything it almost sounds like a little squeal comes in when I kill #8 injector but it's hard to tell. Any suggestions before I yank it out? If it's cam/lifter it's getting a new/used good cam, new lifters and new pushrods probably have heads redone and stud it while it's out but if the bottom end looks good it's going back in. This truck has not been worked at all until I got it and never had a tuner till me. Zero blowby still.
 
Use IDS and do relative compression test and cylinder contribution. Pull whatever side valve cover comes up low and look at rocker arms, rocker ball and rocker arm puck. Pushrod bent?
 
Well I let a couple guys listen to it and a bad lifter is the general consensus. I have to have my vehicles reliable so I pulled the engine and tore it down this weekend. Three of the lifters have galling, wear and flat spots on the rollers, but seem to be in one piece. The cam is galled like the pic I posted earlier on at least three lobes. Cylinders look great and the heads and gaskets are in good shape, appear to be factory headgaskets and none have leaked. Going to fix it and put it back together. I need a cam, will buy a Colt Stg 2 billet if I cannot find a good factory cam, new lifters and pushrods. I guess I will do rings and bearings since I am here but it looks like it will go another 240k as is based on what I can see. Is genuine ford the only way to go on rebuild components, do they sell a rering kit (I have found part numbers for their rebuild kits with pistons, but not without pistons)? There are lots of rebuild kits avaliable from Black Diamond (little power shop), peformance machine etc. Anyone have real world experience with aftermarket engine parts? Heads are going to machine shop tomorrow.
 
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felpro conversion set and valve covers, get ford rod bolts main bearings, oil cooler, cam sensor, t stat, water pump, oil switch, head gasket, dummy plugs, lpop, fuel pressure regulator , updated turbo drain tube and updated push rods, melling lifters jb2104, clevite rod bearings, perfect circle rings arp studs plan on new valve guides, valves ect at machine shop either egr weld cooler shut or bullet proof diesel one.dont get delete they are waist of time and money. We see probably 2 a week that leak either exhaust or coolant. if your gonig to keep it stick new ipr and new injectors in it replace hoses and run coolant filter with good elc coolant check all accessories and ficm a fresh 6.0 with all updates and good maintenance you can easily get another 7500 hours out of it
 
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