VE Pump Modifications

TheTowingCowboy

TheTowingCowboy

That Ford Guy
Joined
Aug 25, 2009
Messages
57
I am wondering what all can be done to a VE Pump? I know you can 'Adjust' it hell west and crooked, but I mean actual parts modifications. I know there is governor spring and the fuel pin as well as a 14mm head, but is there anything else one could do to it? Could you have a pump head done up bigger and better? Is there anything done int he past that has proven to be a big help? I got my engine off the local Big Power Cummins Guy, and I am in Cahoots with him so I have access to his resources decently cheaper then most and if I know what to ask/bring up would make things a lot easier on my end. I plan on running compounds on it and well you know BIG INJECTORS. If I could shoot flames lol I would put stacks on the truck lol. :ft: I plan on doing the pump all myself just sending off what I need to send off to get machine work done to it.

Also what has been shown to be the best combination for pulling mainly sled pulling, cause IDK if they will allow me to pull in any of the street classes or not since i have compounds.... But hey lol build this like I want!

:st::ford::ft:
 
Always wondered what a longer fuel screw would benefit, seeing as runaway usually happens before the factory one is bottomed out.
 
Non Intercooled trucks can hit runaway easier as they have a longer screw then intercooled trucks. Mine's all the way in on my truck n it hasn't ran away yet.
 
1stgensmoking said:
Non Intercooled trucks can hit runaway easier as they have a longer screw then intercooled trucks. Mine's all the way in on my truck n it hasn't ran away yet.
Click to expand...

Interesting. Never heard of different length screws from factory. I have an intercooled pump, and a non intercooled pump sitting on the shelf. Curiosity gets me. I gotta check into that!
 
That fuel-screw from PDP isn't longer in terms of going deeper in the pump. It's longer on the external side so as to perhaps be easier to get to.


Those of you who run the fuel-screw all the way in and can't get it close to run-away (especially if you can run the fuel-screw in and have it bottom-out internally):
1 - Back the fuel-screw out 2 or 3 turns.
2 - Advance the throttle-shaft indexing 1 spline.
3 - Run the fuel-screw back in being cautious of run-away.

;)
 
Honestly, not a great value at all. You can buy the 3200 spring at a local fuel injection shop for $16 and a fuel pin for $105 from M&H or Denny T.
 
I had one yesterday that the fuel screw bottomed out before the collar, which I did remove. It didn't give any noticeable improvement. I've always had luck before that one. What causes that?
 
Last edited:
307diesel said:
I had one yesterday that the fuel screw bottomed out before the collar, which I did remove. It didn't give any noticeable improvement. I've always had luck before that one. What causes that?
Click to expand...

Lack of fuel pressure from supply pump.
 
And to the OP. Lots of "stuff" can be done inside of the VE for an improvement over stock. Just do lots of research, here and on 1stgen. Learn how the AFC works, and how supply pressure/volume affects the pump. Most anything you can think of doing has been done and either proven to work or not work out so hot. You also need to decide what you are going to do with the truck. A Daily Driver isn't too smart to fool with. Unless you have a back up truck sitting to be driven to work if you have a VE Chernobyl incident.
 
I've never gotten a real answer to increasing the vane pump's output, which, theoretically, could allow the 14mm head live longer and supply more fuel.

Would adding in 4 more vanes to the ring increase fuel supply, or would you have the make the vanes TALLER (depthwise to the ring) to increase the vane pump's output to the H&R?

IOW, is more vanes BETTER, or is THICKER better?

Mark.
 
I've looked into it. Adding more veins would decrease volume to much to make it worth it. Now supplying fuel threw the FSS would work nice, then no worries about the stupid vein pump.
 
That fuel-screw from PDP isn't longer in terms of going deeper in the pump. It's longer on the external side so as to perhaps be easier to get to.


Those of you who run the fuel-screw all the way in and can't get it close to run-away (especially if you can run the fuel-screw in and have it bottom-out internally):
1 - Back the fuel-screw out 2 or 3 turns.
2 - Advance the throttle-shaft indexing 1 spline.
3 - Run the fuel-screw back in being cautious of run-away.
Click to expand...

That's the most helpful thing I've read in awhile.

Thanks for sharing!

--Eric
 
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