03 puking

S

silvernblack6.0

slow6.0
Joined
Aug 12, 2008
Messages
33
Hey all,
I have an 03 that has been studded and checked for head gasket leaks with the diesel fluid check stuff from carquest. It passes this test, yet it purges coolant hardcore on a good pull. It has coolant circulation lines, stage 2 injectors, an ss turbo, and I have monitored the oil temp vs. coolant temp and can't exactly say that it needs an oil cooler. Temp does not rise more than 25 degrees as stated in the ford material. I am thinking about deleting the egr cooler even though it has been bypassed with elite's delete pipe. Maybe replace the oil cooler and what else? Like I said, it does pass the dye test for a diesel. I just need more info from those in the know. Let me know. Thanks for reading this.
 
Let it get down to the bottom of the degas bottle, then leave it. If you fill it back up every time, its just gonna puke it out. Deleting the EGR will definetly help.
 
isnt it only suppsed to be 10-15 degrees diffrence..25* imo would be a problem..replace the oil cooler and delete the egr cooler..should by your description of problems..solve them.
 
10-15 degree differences is ok. 25 degrees is the limit. If you want to test the EGR cooler. Pressurize the cooling system with a pressure tester. Pull the EGR valve out of the intake manifold. Elevate the rear of the truck a couple feet in the air. And come back in about a half hour and look for coolant in the manifold.

While you stated that you monitored the temps. What were they? And using a coolant sniffer to check for headgasket problems isn't an accurate method. They may have a dedicated diesel kit on the market, but all of these trucks will put a little bit of combustion into the coolant on cold start.

If you keep the coolant pressure tester connected and were able to make a few runs. If the gauge immediately spikes to 16psi which is the system limit, then you will be pulling the heads off.
 
Dalpilot said:
Let it get down to the bottom of the degas bottle, then leave it. If you fill it back up every time, its just gonna puke it out. Deleting the EGR will definetly help.
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It stays well below the bottom of the bottle. And it will still puke. Actually, it will puke enough that the fans finally come on and you better be stopping to put coolant back in it so it won't over heat. I pull a 7% grade to and from work everyday. Thanks for your thoughts
 
Abrannan19 said:
isnt it only suppsed to be 10-15 degrees diffrence..25* imo would be a problem..replace the oil cooler and delete the egr cooler..should by your description of problems..solve them.
Click to expand...

As per bulletin 08-3-7, it states that at any point during the test drive, oil temp should not exceed 25 degrees, it does say that normal is 12 to 18 and tip out conditions can bring it higher. I can get to 25 degrees but not like the ones I have replaced. They were definately bad and plugged, they would hit 25 degrees on the slightest pull. I do have to run the snot out of mine to get it to purge but it will. You don't know anybody that sells cheap, but mind you, high quality egr delete kits, do you? ;) Remember, I already have the up-pipe deleted. Thanks
 
PSDPlayer said:
10-15 degree differences is ok. 25 degrees is the limit. If you want to test the EGR cooler. Pressurize the cooling system with a pressure tester. Pull the EGR valve out of the intake manifold. Elevate the rear of the truck a couple feet in the air. And come back in about a half hour and look for coolant in the manifold.

While you stated that you monitored the temps. What were they? And using a coolant sniffer to check for headgasket problems isn't an accurate method. They may have a dedicated diesel kit on the market, but all of these trucks will put a little bit of combustion into the coolant on cold start.

If you keep the coolant pressure tester connected and were able to make a few runs. If the gauge immediately spikes to 16psi which is the system limit, then you will be pulling the heads off.
Click to expand...

My egr cooler isn't leaking. I have the uppipe delete kit just not the cooler delete. I am just gonna replace the oil cooler and eliminate the egr cooler. Thanks for your thoughts. I did use the diesel kit, but you are saying that it won't work. Just monitor my pressure? Of course right now it should be going well over 16, otherwise it wouldn't puke. Are you saying, if it is instant, then the heads are definately leaking? Thanks again
 
sneaky pipe wont work with a full egr delete kit..

cheap and quality don't go hand and hand..but you need to figure out your problem at hand first..i don't care what that bulletin says..25* is too much of a difference.
 
Abrannan19 said:
sneaky pipe wont work with a full egr delete kit..

cheap and quality don't go hand and hand..but you need to figure out your problem at hand first..i don't care what that bulletin says..25* is too much of a difference.
Click to expand...

Okay, I am fine with the oil cooler needing replaced. Why won't the up pipe work with your delete kit. Don't you send an up pipe when you sell your kit? Thanks for listening.
 
No place for the pipe to connect to. You need to weld closed the up pipe where it would attach to the egr cooler.
 
my mistake..I thought I read you had the sneaky pipe..that pipe will work..my mistake.
 
On the first cold start of the morning, pop the hood and start the truck. If your radiator hoses get firm with pressure before the t-stat opens have fun pulling the cab again.
 
They all build pressure. As the coolant and air warm, they expand to a point. How much pressure would be the true question. Thats a science i won't be able to understand, how much pressure does expanding hot coolant and air produce. Not gonna work, I understand what you are saying though. I believe that I am going to replace the oil cooler and delete the egr and go from there. If I end up replacing the heads, so be it. I will just pull the motor and start over. Thanks to all.
 
silvernblack6.0 said:
My egr cooler isn't leaking. I have the uppipe delete kit just not the cooler delete. I am just gonna replace the oil cooler and eliminate the egr cooler. Thanks for your thoughts. I did use the diesel kit, but you are saying that it won't work. Just monitor my pressure? Of course right now it should be going well over 16, otherwise it wouldn't puke. Are you saying, if it is instant, then the heads are definately leaking? Thanks again
Click to expand...

You blocked the back of the cooler from the ehxuast. Did you plug the front of the cooler to block it from boost? The EGR valve itself doesn't seal perfectly.

If you roll onto the throttle and the gauge spikes to 16 and the cap starts purging, there is more than likely a leak in a gasket. Even being studded you can move metal.

The reason behind a rise in oil temps on tip out is due to the motor not circulating coolant enough at low rpm. Maintaining 1200-1500 rpm when the fans come on will help out tremendously as the thermostat opens fully to move as much coolant as possible. Keeping the RPMs up slightly you will see coolant temps drop dramatically as the reserve of cool coolant comes in from the radiator.

Once that cap relieves the pressure that coolant just can't keep from boiling over. The air bubbles in it keep it from pulling heat from the engine and it gets really hot really fast. Especially with ~1200 degree exhaust comming into it.
 
PSDPlayer said:
You blocked the back of the cooler from the ehxuast. Did you plug the front of the cooler to block it from boost? The EGR valve itself doesn't seal perfectly.

If you roll onto the throttle and the gauge spikes to 16 and the cap starts purging, there is more than likely a leak in a gasket. Even being studded you can move metal.


The reason behind a rise in oil temps on tip out is due to the motor not circulating coolant enough at low rpm. Maintaining 1200-1500 rpm when the fans come on will help out tremendously as the thermostat opens fully to move as much coolant as possible. Keeping the RPMs up slightly you will see coolant temps drop dramatically as the reserve of cool coolant comes in from the radiator.
.

Once that cap relieves the pressure that coolant just can't keep from boiling over. The air bubbles in it keep it from pulling heat from the engine and it gets really hot really fast. Especially with ~1200 degree exhaust comming into it.
Click to expand...

You blocked the back of the cooler from the ehxuast. Did you plug the front of the cooler to block it from boost? The EGR valve itself doesn't seal perfectly.

Confused, the egr is tapered and as boost, in upwards of 45 psi pushes it tighter, no? Okay, so it might let a small bit of boost back out of the egr tube itself, but not into the cooling system, or does it some how get into the cooling system? But then it would leak coolant, when boost isn't there, correct. So from what I can see, only a performance issue could result from not having the egr completely deleted other than the coolant still circulates through the egr cooler and could become plugged with scale and calcium and such, no?

If you roll onto the throttle and the gauge spikes to 16 and the cap starts purging, there is more than likely a leak in a gasket. Even being studded you can move metal.

Yeah, got that. I understand my oil temps are near the verge. But, the whole reason I asked this question was because I don't want to replace studded heads unless I absolutely have to. I never once had a problem until I studded the heads and of course, put injectors and a turbo on it. So, its been 70k and now I believe my oil cooler might be plugged enough to actually build pressure from the water pump, not so much the hot oil temp. I have literally done dozens of oil coolers and have yet to come across this, yet all of them were bone stock.

Once that cap relieves the pressure that coolant just can't keep from boiling over. The air bubbles in it keep it from pulling heat from the engine and it gets really hot really fast. Especially with ~1200 degree exhaust comming into it


Where is the 1200 degree exhaust coming from? I am confused by what you are getting at.

Again, thanks to all for trying to help me get to the bottom of this without actually disassembling the motor, yet. Help me out here, can you insert quotes in the middle of your reply. I had to basically repeat all that you said. Thanks
 
silvernblack6.0 said:
They all build pressure. As the coolant and air warm, they expand to a point. How much pressure would be the true question. Thats a science i won't be able to understand, how much pressure does expanding hot coolant and air produce. Not gonna work, I understand what you are saying though. I believe that I am going to replace the oil cooler and delete the egr and go from there. If I end up replacing the heads, so be it. I will just pull the motor and start over. Thanks to all.
Click to expand...

Keep kidding yourself, maybe it will fix itself. I have owned a few 6.0's. If the radiator hoses get firm before you have coolant flow your gaskets are gone. 1 reason for pressure before flow. Combustion gases.
 
after extensive testing and some extremely high egt runs, full boost. the engine oil cooler and egr delete seems to have fixed it. i disected the cooler and their was definately some buildup on the coolant side of the things, i wonder if regularly trying to remove some of the calcium buildup would help keep the cooler lasting longer? thanks again to all
 
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