07.5 having start & die issues

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Got Smoke?

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Ok so my 07.5 Mega 6.7/68RFE gave me some problems a few months ago.

Go to start it sometimes and it would act like it had dead batteries even thought they were good. Sometimes it would start run for a few seconds and die, and sometimes it would just spin. I ended up pulling the cables off cleaning them at the batteries and it went away.

Now that has been a couple of months ago I drove my truck Thursday this week without any issue. Friday morning getting in to leave with my daughter I remote started the truck, and it cranked slow but still cranked. When I got ready to leave work that afternoon. It wouldn't turn over at all, no click or anything even showing 14V on my dash and Edge CTS2. It was pouring down rain so I drove a company truck home.

Saturday morning put a jump pack on and it started and died 3 times then finally stayed running. Worked a few hours went to leave and it needed the jump pack to start again started and died 3 times before it would stay running.

Came home pulled the batteries out carried them to be load tested and they both show good. Reinstalled the batteries and again it started and died 3 or 4 times trying to move it out of my garage. This time it finally threw a check engine light but my CTS2 says no DTC's found. I have a friend who lives close by with an older Matco Maximus scan tool I plan to have him drop by and scan it soon. Just curious if anyone else has had this happen and could offer any input?
 
Tried my valet key on a suggestion of someone today and it still does the same thing.
Starts and runs for a few seconds and dies, and does this 3-4 times before it will stay running.

First start I tried this afternoon seemed like weak batteries. I gave it a moment after turning the key the next time and tried again and it starts fine just dies after a few seconds.
 
We had one with a bad battery. It also test good. Try new batteries. In our case it was the left side battery. Must have been a bad cell or something. Hard to explain, but it acted the same way yours is acting.
 
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I'd check the positive crossover cable. Mine went tits up a few months ago.
 
Just installed two new Optima Red tops in the silver sloth. I bet it fixes your issue as well.
 
Put a volt meter on the battery and have someone try to crank the truck, and see how much voltage drop you have under load.
I bet you have 1 bad battery also.
 
jasonc said:
Put a volt meter on the battery and have someone try to crank the truck, and see how much voltage drop you have under load.
I bet you have 1 bad battery also.
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So I cleaned the cables and posts when I pulled the batteries out and had them load tested last weekend.

Finally got around to fooling with it a little bit this afternoon.
After not driving it all week it needed my jump pack to start again. Showed 12V on the dash but nothing when I hit the key. When I got it started and went to move it onto a concrete pad it wanted to take off in 4th gear. Drop it in drive on the dash and it bypassed and went to Manual 4.

Cleaned all the grounds from battery to fender, and battery to block on both sides. Saw one that attaches in close to the ECM but didn't attempt to get to it tonight.

Truck is still acting the same, after what Jeff had said I was thinking about swapping my one battery from the 97 to my 07 to try that theory. However, its dead because I haven't drove it in like 3 months now. :bang
EDIT:I put my scan tool on it tonight just to see if it could read something my Edge CTS2 wouldn't.
Had a P0562 System Low Voltage and a P0882 TCM Power Input Signal Low

I'll try having someone crank while checking with a multimeter tomorrow, but this whole thing is weird. Once it spins over once with the booster pack its fine I can start it, cut it off, and start it again. :bang I hate eletrical gremlins.

Once I cut the truck off and started it back up once it drops into Drive as it should and moves back and forth correctly.
 
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Snedge said:
We had one with a bad battery. It also test good. Try new batteries. In our case it was the left side battery. Must have been a bad cell or something. Hard to explain, but it acted the same way yours is acting.
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They are under 3 year full warranty replacement at the local Advance for another year. They load tested them for me last week, maybe if I can prove with a multimeter they are bad while cranking they will replace one? They showed 12V's just out of the vehicle and both were right at or above the 850 CCA they were rated for under load test.

BigPapa said:
I'd check the positive crossover cable. Mine went tits up a few months ago.
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Yessir I will check that out tomorrow evening.

4x4dually said:
Just installed two new Optima Red tops in the silver sloth. I bet it fixes your issue as well.
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Too damn expensive for my blood and you're usually the tight ass. :hehe:
As I said above to Jeff they are still under full replacement warranty. I've had great luck with Advance batteries in all my vehicles, and up until last fall I had a friend there who gave me a hell of a discount on parts.
 
IF not the cross over cable, and not the cable to the starter, I'd cut my losses and try two new batteries.

One person can check voltage drop with a multimeter that captures min and max voltage.

In your first post, you stated the dash showed 14v and the Edge monitor. Have your verified that voltage reading with a volt meter at the batteries? I only ask because my 14 chevy had an alternator going out few weeks ago on a road trip. Dash gauge showed just under 14v, the cig lighter digital voltage readout thing I have was showing 13.6v, yet lights were dimming, the cruise was cutting off if I rolled up two windows, all sorts of weird things happened. Checked voltage with my volt meter on the battery and it was at 12.9v idling. My little cig lighter readout was a good .7v off, and I was believing it was more accurate than the dash readout.

In the end, check with a volt meter.
 
Got a chance to mess with it again tonight.

Driver side battery is holding voltage during cranking, but the passenger side battery is dropping from 12.4 to 7-8V during cranking. Then after starting a few times it will still drop to 9-9.5V during cranking.

I will call and talk to the guy I deal with now on the commercial side tomorrow and see what he says hoping they cover it.

Can anyone actually explain to me why my truck starts and cuts off even with the drivers side battery holding a charge just fine?
 
You have one dead as **** battery tied directly into your one good battery. ****ing it all up
 
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