12 Valve guru's inside please!

J.Keith

Pro Diesel Tech
Joined
Feb 14, 2007
Messages
708
Just to preface I mostly do CR and VP trucks and things electronic.
However, I have been dieing to learn the art of 12V tuning and I finally have the chance so I'm looking for some ideas where those of you that have done this ALOT would start with a setup like this. I've done lots and lots of reading about this and I believe I have all the proper tools for it.

The truck in question is a 98 12V, built 47re, DDP4's, 0 plate, unknown timing, stock DV's and HX35/40-HT3B compounds. I just finished the turbos and headwork so it's got a fresh .020 Marine gasket, orings and ARP's. DDP4's are brand new also.

I ran the truck last night for the first time with the compounds and it runs OK but I know it can run better so I would like some advice on what to do with timing, plates, AFC and possibly DV tuning. It is a 215pump on the truck as far as I can tell. I'd like to see it making right around 500hp with EGT's in safe towing levels. Not a competition truck at all just a fun DD that can pull boats and 12k loads without worrying. Also, we're at 5000ft above sea level.

Thanks in advance guys!
Jeremy
 
tune the wastegate on the small turbo to open around 30psi. with o-rings and studs for a daily driver/tow rig, i would do timing around 18-19*. Dont touch the delivery valves (runaway trucks arnt fun). Start with the fuel plate full forward and put the afc housing in the middle with the starwheel loosened a little from stock. If you smoke too much from a take off (no boost) tighten the starwheel a little and move the housing forward a little too. once you get the low end fueling tuned, you can work on the high end fueling. If you have alot of smoke or high egt's move the plate back some and tune accordingly. The less travel the arm has (closer to the cab) the less fuel, and the more travel, closer to the front, the more fuel. Good Luck and happy tuning!
 
i would think that with the 0 plate, 140hp injectors, and twins you should already be at 500+ hp, but there is always room for some tuning. That Guy is on the right track so far IMO
 
Thanks!
I'm gonna head out to the shop and start tweaking now.
 
Mod the AFC for full travel.

And unless you set it up with air pressure to it you are just guessing.
 
I baited the hook, and Tim bit YYYEEESSSSS!!!!!LOL

I'd put the arm in the toolbox if you ever want to set it up properly:poke:
 
Which are 370's. Why do you think it has a 215hp P7100?

Because the HP rating on the data plate is 215hp? I dunno.
If they are 370's they are the cleanest 370's I've ever seen.

Todays results, the truck feels MUCH better. I set the timing at 16.5, on the low side because he regularly takes the truck places he can't plug it in in VERY cold weather. The plate is full forward, didn't do anything to the AFC yet, tightened the starwheel up and it's running very nice. No idle smoke, barely a haze at half throttle around 35psi of boost. Haven't gone full throttle yet as I'd like to get 1 more retorque on it before I really give it hell.

I think it's a good start.


Jeremy
 
Because the HP rating on the data plate is 215hp? I dunno.
If they are 370's they are the cleanest 370's I've ever seen.

Todays results, the truck feels MUCH better. I set the timing at 16.5, on the low side because he regularly takes the truck places he can't plug it in in VERY cold weather. The plate is full forward, didn't do anything to the AFC yet, tightened the starwheel up and it's running very nice. No idle smoke, barely a haze at half throttle around 35psi of boost. Haven't gone full throttle yet as I'd like to get 1 more retorque on it before I really give it hell.

I think it's a good start.


Jeremy

I would guess it's around 330-360hp...but then again with twins maybe close 390ish.
 
Because the HP rating on the data plate is 215hp? I dunno.
If they are 370's they are the cleanest 370's I've ever seen.

Todays results, the truck feels MUCH better. I set the timing at 16.5, on the low side because he regularly takes the truck places he can't plug it in in VERY cold weather. The plate is full forward, didn't do anything to the AFC yet, tightened the starwheel up and it's running very nice. No idle smoke, barely a haze at half throttle around 35psi of boost. Haven't gone full throttle yet as I'd like to get 1 more retorque on it before I really give it hell.

I think it's a good start.


Jeremy

Do a search on here for DDPs and you will see what Weston is talking about.
DDPs are just marine injectors, EDMd, Extrude honed and pop pressure set to 300bar, oh yeah I forgot the other thing is that they jack the price of a set of Marine 370s 3x the amount. But hey, you can say you run a set of DDP$. The pop pressure is what makes them run clean at idle.
Set your timing to around 20* and see how clean they run:hehe:
 
i would think that with the 0 plate, 140hp injectors, and twins you should already be at 500+ hp,

Trust me

it is NOT that easy... takes tuning and time, my setup should have been over 550-600, and the best i got is in my sig.. but i was happier with 450 rwhp and 21-22 mpg on the highway than i was breaking my head trying to figure it out..

had about 1000 ft lbs, and yanked what i hooked to it with ease, and gave me mileage...

it aint about toss some s*it at it and see what it does.. make the parts work as a whole.. and u are in business (IE Brad Ponci, joe hellman, mike watkins etc etc etc)


Rick
 
Trust me

it is NOT that easy... takes tuning and time, my setup should have been over 550-600, and the best i got is in my sig.. but i was happier with 450 rwhp and 21-22 mpg on the highway than i was breaking my head trying to figure it out..

had about 1000 ft lbs, and yanked what i hooked to it with ease, and gave me mileage...

it aint about toss some s*it at it and see what it does.. make the parts work as a whole.. and u are in business (IE Brad Ponci, joe hellman, mike watkins etc etc etc)


Rick

oh i know its not easy, lol. just from my experience with my truck i thought he would of been at 500 hp with that setup without it tuned in.

my truck dynoed 383hp with a 62/65/12 and 5x.012 injectors with stock timing a VERY VERY crappy AFC setup, so i thought that with the twins and 140hp injectors he would have been at 500hp already. but yeah, ur prolly right on that, ill keep my mouth shut, haha.
 
We're going to dyno tune it next week and I won't be surprised to see it at, or just under 400hp starting out.
 
oh i know its not easy, lol. just from my experience with my truck i thought he would of been at 500 hp with that setup without it tuned in.

my truck dynoed 383hp with a 62/65/12 and 5x.012 injectors with stock timing a VERY VERY crappy AFC setup, so i thought that with the twins and 140hp injectors he would have been at 500hp already. but yeah, ur prolly right on that, ill keep my mouth shut, haha.

no need to

we are here to learn, and to teach from what we have (me) moved on from (regretfully i might add) You probably have more in it with proper tuning, and a good auto, or good clutch..

FWIW my stock clutch would slip at 330 rwhp.... My valair inc didnt miss a beat at even my best... somethin to consider if ur trucks a manual
 
no need to

we are here to learn, and to teach from what we have (me) moved on from (regretfully i might add) You probably have more in it with proper tuning, and a good auto, or good clutch..

FWIW my stock clutch would slip at 330 rwhp.... My valair inc didnt miss a beat at even my best... somethin to consider if ur trucks a manual

Also, Every dyno is different, so far in my path, i have seen different power levels on different dynos, wich is from using a dif dyno, and also the sea levels and air temp and density.
 
Also, Every dyno is different, so far in my path, i have seen different power levels on different dynos, wich is from using a dif dyno, and also the sea levels and air temp and density.

the dyno that i go to has that correction factor so that it should read the same as any other dyno with that system no matter the sea level, but i guess the air temp and density would still be diff
 
Top