12v/47rh/solid axle in 99 suburban got a few ?'s

C

Chace TX

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Our 99 1/2 ton 4x4 suburban has been broken down for about 3 of the 4 years that I have owned it. Two transmissions, five fuel pumps, 4wd has not worked for 2 years and on and on. Had new trans put in 11 weeks and 1500 miles ago then last Saturday my dad was driving it and the engine died along with some very weird sounds. He opened the hood then looked underneath the truck and the entire engine wiring harness was wrapped in a ball around the front driveshaft. He said it looks like hundreds of wires. I don't think the trans shop that did the rebuild will fix it nor do I think they are capable it's a transmission shop.

I have 95 12 valve and a fresh built 47rh 4x4 trans sitting in my shop waiting for a chassis, and this suburban may be the one. I'm sure I could figure all this out but if any of you guys can answer these questions I would appreciate it.


Is there a stock intercooler that will fit in the 99 suburban?
What is the best way to control lockup on the 47rh?
Is the 1/2 ton frame strong enough for a 350-400hp Cummins? (or can it be beefed up enough)
I want to use a passenger drop (Chevy) kingpin dana 60 so will a np205 from a 1st gen auto fit the 47rh?
The fab work is not going to be a problem, I am worried about the wiring now.
With the ecm harness gone would it be feasible to use any of the factory gauges, or should I just make a gauge panel and use all autometer or aftermarket gauges?

What part of the engine ecm if any affects the air conditioner, interior lights etc, and will I ever be able to get some type of cruise control working on this rig?
 
I'm not an expert in the cummins-swap-into-chevy area, but I think I might have some answers for ya.

I would look into a 6.5 diesel intercooler. Your body style had the 6.5 diesels in them and they were intercooled (I'm pretty sure). It should more or less be a drop in, unless the radiator supports for the gassers were different than the diesels. You can always go the route of the aftermarket, or not run an intercooler at all.

I just use a simple on/off toggle switch for the 47rh in my '94. I have a friend who's '96 cummins was converted from an nv4500 to a 47rh with no pcm, and he uses the same style switch I have.

I think the frame would be strong enough for a stock 12v, but I would reinforce it anyway I could just to be safe. Some guys have had to notch the frames in their cummins-to-chevy swaps to make the a/c compressor fit without having to relocate it. That's something to look into...

As far as the np205 fitting the tranny, I don't know. I don't think gen 1's came with the 47rh... The splines could be different so they might not work together, but they probably could. Call advanced adapters and see if they make an adapter plate?

I would go with autometer gauges and fit them into the stock dash. It would probably be a lot easier than trying to make the factory gauges pick up the correct signals from the 12v. Maybe you could modify a factory dodge gauge cluster to fit in the chevy dash.

I really have no clue about the ecm affecting the a/c, interior lights, cruise control, etc. Someone else needs to chime in for that.

The power steering pump on a cummins creates the vacuum for the power brakes, so that shouldn't be a problem.

Holy crap that was long! :doh: Hope I was some kind of help to ya!
 
Been on the 4bt site. Lots of info. I will keep reading and figuring this out. I am taking the sub by the trans shop tomorrow and see what he says. I really want to put the Cummins in it. Main issue is to find a transfer case and matching front axle. I have a 1st gen intercooler that may work in this sub.
 
1998 Chevy Tahoe, 4bt and NV4500. I have all the gauges running through the factory ECM. I don't have the tach hooked up, but I am planning on running it through the ECM also. Right now, I am using the factory IFS suapension and 4wd. I am planning on swapping to a straight axle, using a dana 44 and suspension from a '78 F150. For the brakes, I just used the factory vacuum booster set-up, and put a vacuum pump/power steering combo from a '89-'93 Dodge/Cummins. They work just as good factory.
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1.No stock intercooler will just bolt it . I rework the intercoolers that I install ,I also don't use the stock GM Radiator. I have them made for me .This all depends on the mounts and how the engine is mounted.
2. The Rh has been talked about above,all depends on how you want it hooked up.
3. The 1/2 frame will be fine ,they are a boxed frame until the the front door section. If your going to do a straight axle that will only make it better.
4.Yes a Np 205 will bolt up ,you'll want to use the dodge 205 that was bolted to a 727 gas engine , the seal will need to be removed in the trans ,the t-case will need to be seal to trans to t-case , or you can turn down the sleeve to fit the seal.
5.The wiring isn't all that bad just takes time to make it look right.The gauges will work if you use the stock senders and you'll use the brass adapter to the Cummins block, the tach is ran by the Alt , so have ran the Gm alt and use a 6 rib belt but the belt will walk as some point. All depends on if you want all the gauges to match or not .

I will be doing a 99 Tahoe soon and you'll see the products that I make .

Scott
 
If the 47rh is already a 2-wheel drive, find a dodge divorced 205 tcase to run with that chevy d60. Depending on your budget, I am currently putting a 12v in a '97 tahoe and am using autoworld motor mounts and brackets to use the chevy alternator and ac compressor. Gonna use all the stock gauges and keep all the interior stock. Spend a little time searching around here and other diesel sites in there conversiuon forums and u will find a lot of these conversions for ideas from what others have done.
 
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