12v wrist pins

[cummins_4life]

Ok, here is the story. The machine shop I have my block, rods, crank, and head at went to install new wrist pin bushings into my rods but said the new bushings I gave him don't look the same as the old ones he removed. (the part numbers didn't match either) The old ones have an oil hole in the top and the new ones have an oil hole about 45 degrees from the top. If they were to be installed, the hole in the bushing wouldn't line up at all with the hole in the rod.

I took in the old bushing and the new bushing into my local Cummins parts dealer and they spent some time on the computer and told me the part number on the new bushing took the place of the old part number. They then tell me that the part number for the rod that is pulled up with my engine serial number that uses the bushing I removed, is the same part number that uses the newer bushing they gave me. So they say everything is ok to install.

The problem I now have is that they said that the rods that are in my motor don't have an oil hole in the top anyway so don't worry about. But when looking at my rods, they have an oil hole.

Has anyone else experienced this problem when they rebuilt their motors? Anyone from Browns Diesel or any other diesel shop that has been in these motors alot know that if I used a bushing that didn't have an oil hole I won't ruin something? Help please!!!


found a pic on this forum of a guy that rebuilt this 06 common rail and he showed the wrist pin bushing and it looks the same as the one I just got from Cummins to put in my motor.

So, if the bushing works in the common rail rod, will it work in the 12v rod?

Is the hole in the top of my rod used to cool the bottom of the piston? cuz I thought thats what the cooling jets in the block are used for. So, if the newer rods don't have holes in the top, then I should be fine if I used the bushings without a hole in the top right?

 

[GOT-Torque]

it will be fine with no hole in the top as most cummins rods don't have the hole in the top of the rod anyway. Only a few years of 12V rods had the hole I think. If your rod has the hole, you could install the bushing then drill the hole on thru the bushing to make it functional again. The purpose was to get oil to the wrist pin I believe.

 

[cummins_4life]

Ok. Thats good news. I mentioned to the machinist about drilling a hole but he said that he didn't want to be the one to make that decision. So thats a relief to hear that if I use them, they won't sieze up on me

 

[RJM06590]

The newer ones get oil from the sides while the old ones got it through the hole.

 

[HightechRedneck]

i had the same thing just drilled the hole... what they charging you by chance for the machining and getting the new bushings put in... guys i talked to were getting them done for 50 a con rod but i got them done for 100 for the full set...

 

[cummins_4life]

The local shop I'm using quoted me a package price. This is what I had them do.

Head: deck, 3 angle valve job, mag, hot tank, polish and grind valves
Block: mag, hot tank, bore .040 and hone, install cam bushing
Crank: mag, polish. (only needed standard bearings after 500k miles) balance
rods: mag, replace and hone wrist pin bushings

All this for $785 I think. somewhere around that. If he needed to grind the crank it was gunna add about $200. But, I didn't need it. I bought all the parts and am trying to do as much of the pre and post machining work myself so that he only could charge me for the bare minimum. I thought it sounded like a good price to me. I'm also thinking of starting a build thread in this Engine Tech forum. I started it already on CF but it was started as a chevy conversion thread. I think I'll start one for just the motor build up so people can follow along. It's gunna be a Killer motor.